Budget 14g Breeder

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

That makes sense, I’ve always been back and forth as well, I’ve done CUC first in previous tanks and didn’t have problems, I think it’s all about preference, regardless you’re bound to get algae at some point in the tanks life it’s just being able to manage it that is the real question. I think the slow 4 month process may be the way to go if you’re new to the saltwater hobby, nothing good happens fast! Learned that the hard way yearsssss ago lol

Slow and steady is meant to win the race... and it helps take it easy on the pockets.

I got sucked in watching DIY budget builds for $150-200usd, so I thought I had a headstart by having an existing tank and a DIY cabinet. $700aud later I've got a build and equipment with no livestock and associated food/ chemicals... lol

 

[...]

Yeah, Idon;t like to DIY but I can add to things like for a ato I want to buy, I am going to add a HOB Float Valve, What test kit are you using by the way.? I might have missed that.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

DIY Cabinet

Finally, I got around to getting the cabinet done and closing it up. Actually it's been done for 2 or 3 weeks now, but I never got around to posting on the thread.

Anyhow, I ended up finding half a sheet of 7mm plywood and half a sheet of 6mm MDF in the store. These were ideal as they are relatively light weight and wouldn't add too much weight to the cabinet frame. Furthermore, I didnt have to go and buy any material other than some hinges and knob handles for a whopping cost of $6 lol. I already had black paint left over from painting the back of the tank, so that was another bonus.

I used the plywood for the shelves as its stronger, and the MDF for the cabinet sides as a cladding over the metal cabinet frame (converted entertainment trolly).

Sorry the cabinet is a mess, you dont really know how much stuff there is till you start

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

I would also suggest thinking about removing the wheels. I'm not sure those casters are designed to hold that weight, but even if they could, I've always viewed wheels + tanks as a point of failure (even casters that lock). Just my personal opinion.

Thanks for pushing me on this Andrewey. I always had my concerns about the wheels failing, but I would have been "she'll be right" attitude about it to do anything if it wasn't for you. Much appreciated.

I ended up cutting down 90x90mm wooden post to the right height and tightly squeezing them in at all 4 corners under the frame.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

Cycling Update

Dosing Day 14 of 30 - Patience is a virtue ;Shifty
No sign of any algae or diatoms as yet. No lights and no livestock

Cycle Finally Over

The cycle took 6 weeks to read 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite, finally ending 1st August.

I think the reason for this is that I got advised that a deshelled headless prawn (which I had been using) was not creating ammonia and that I had to use a whole prawn (head and all). I added this end of week 3 into the "meant to be" 4 week cycle, and left it in for just under a week. I believe this is what prolonged the cycle as it was a lot of ammonia for the bacteria to consume and finally convert to nitrate.

I tested end of week 5 and got 0 ammonia and 0.15 nitrite, with high nitrate of 50 and phosphates reading 0.5!!! I did a 50% water change, which brought down the readings significantly.

End of week 6, I did another 20% water change and got 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite, 25 nitrates, and .25 phosphates.

All tests using Salifert.

Throughout the water changes I reduced the temperature and increased salinity to the desired levels.

Still no signs of any algae blooms. But I have the task of continuously trying to reduce nitrates and phosphates via water changes.

If anyone has any advice or reccommendations on this, please let me know.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

That makes sense, I’ve always been back and forth as well, I’ve done CUC first in previous tanks and didn’t have problems, I think it’s all about preference, regardless you’re bound to get algae at some point in the tanks life it’s just being able to manage it that is the real question. I think the slow 4 month process may be the way to go if you’re new to the saltwater hobby, nothing good happens fast! Learned that the hard way yearsssss ago lol

CUC Introduction

Despite high nitrates and phosphates and working on bringing them down, I decided to add CUC first to keep the tank maturing and increase the chances of fish immortality. It was also to introduce coraline algae from the snail shells into the tank.

I tested the water they came in from the LFS just to see how different the parameters were from my tank, so I can determine how much of a gap I have to bridge during acclimation. Salinity was 1.022 little lower than mine, nitrates and phosphates were way off the charts (a lot higher than mine). This was a bit of relief that I'm not doing so bad.

I added 1 trochus snail, 2 turbo snails, and 2 nassarius snails. I expect this is half the number needed for this size tank, but I thought it's a good start to test the waters, especially that I will have to feed them as there is no algae for them to eat currently.

I have been feeding small squares of nori rubberbanded to a rock once every 2 days which is roughly how long it takes them to finish it, and a few xs vitalis pellets once or twice a week. I didnt want to go crazy with the nori so it doesn't make a mess in the tank.

The 2 nassarius snails and 2 turbos seem to be eating regularly and constantly moving around the tank. But the trochus snail is in the corner high up on the glass with little movement all in the same 2 square inches, and I haven't seen him eat.

I've had them for just under 2 weeks now.

Should I be concerned about the trochus snails survivability? Is there anything I can do or feed to get it more active and eating?

Heres some pics taken on the day I first got them.

 

[fishguy242]

hi, the trochus are night time feeders,will hide in day time feed at night ,great snails,can flip themself over ,unlike the turbos,have to watch them if upside down flip back over

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

hi, the trochus are night time feeders,will hide in day time feed at night ,great snails,can flip themself over ,unlike the turbos,have to watch them if upside down flip back over

Yer I've had to flip a turbo up the other day, I thought it had died... lol

 

[fishguy242]

yes they have about 20-24 hours if not flipped

 

[Njbjr]

I am so happy to see this build. My first tank was 10 years ago and was only 20 gallons. My worst mistake was not getting strong enough lights. Fluval not the best results.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

yes they have about 20-24 hours if not flipped

Good to know thx

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

I am so happy to see this build. My first tank was 10 years ago and was only 20 gallons. My worst mistake was not getting strong enough lights. Fluval not the best results.

Fluval canister filter you mean?

I've got the aquaknight light on the tank. I've seen youtube review with PAR testing suggesting its sufficient for mixed reef on a tank of this size. So far what I've noticed, is that you lose the blues as you put up the whites. Yet to see how it goes when I get some corals and SPS in.

 

[Njbjr]

Fluval canister filter you mean?

I've got the aquaknight light on the tank. I've seen youtube review with PAR testing suggesting its sufficient for mixed reef on a tank of this size. So far what I've noticed, is that you lose the blues as you put up the whites. Yet to see how it goes when I get some corals and SPS in.

No I had fluval marine lights. Don’t recommend if tank is taller than 10 inches.

 

[seaescape]

Yes, the next stage is to get a HOB refugium with some sort of macro algae once the tank bio-load has increased over time. I'd like to add pods and feed phyto, in preparation for a mandarin. But both of these things require alot more research which I'll do when I'm closer to the time. I'm guessing around 5 or 6 months in.

You definitely want a well established take for a mandarin. You need a healthy pod population to sustain one.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

You definitely want a well established take for a mandarin. You need a healthy pod population to sustain one.

100%, I might have to get onto the refugium a bit sooner if I struggle bringing nitrates down with water changes only... let's see.

They say it's about the journey not only the end result... I'm enjoying it so far

 

[seaescape]

100%, I might have to get onto the refugium a bit sooner if I struggle bringing nitrates down with water changes only... let's see.

They say it's about the journey not only the end result... I'm enjoying it so far

the refugium is a must IMO to help sustain healthy pod levels. Slow is the way to win this race. You are doing great! Patience is one of the hardest things when starting a reef tank. If you don’t have a skimmer look into that as well. It will help bring those nitrates down some.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

the refugium is a must IMO to help sustain healthy pod levels. Slow is the way to win this race. You are doing great! Patience is one of the hardest things when starting a reef tank. If you don’t have a skimmer look into that as well. It will help bring those nitrates down some.

I'm currently debating converting a HOB filter to a refugium or a small 10L sump purely focused on a refugium and potentially adding a miniature DIY skimmer. The prob with the latter is that I will need two pumps as theres no overflow box, and I'd be trying to modify the pump from the tank to surface skim.

Tough decisions during times of pandemic... lol

 

[...]

Nice! So happy to someone becoming successful, during the 5 week aquarium closed lockdown, not much to do. Nice tank coming.

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

Hi all,

Been a lil while since I posted on here... lots of progress in my world, yet probably very little when it comes to the everyday hobbiest...

In short, heres the progress so far with some dates. I'll detail things separately in subsequent posts especially for the DIY stuff.
- Got bored watching snails for 2 months since they were added whilst in full lockdown, so I got a bit slack topping up RODI water. I made a gravity fed top off. (2nd week AUG).
- Added my first fish 2x clowns (30th SEPT)
- Nitrates and Phosphates were running a bit high despite water changes, so I decided to make a miniature sump and overflow, mainly to use as a refugium (operational 30th OCT)
- Added a Bi-colour Blenny (6th NOV)

Please comment, provide opinions, ask questions and point me in the right direction where possible.

Cheers

 

[Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef]

#DIY Gravity Fed ATO

As mentioned above, when I got the snails before any other live stock, the intent was to mature the tank 1 month before adding fish. Then we went into full lockdown and had the snails in for 2 months before I could get some fish in. During this period, it got very boring watching snails and got lazy with manual water top off.

Based on my manual water top off, I was using about 5litres/1.25gal every 1-1.5 weeks. There is a shelf about 2 or so meters away from the tank where I can put the fresh water container and have it gravity fed. So all in all I found a way to do it without having ugly overhanging water containers by the tank, that would be large enough to sustain the tank for about 1 week. This also meant that I can top up the fresh water once a week when I do my water change.

Material List:
- 5L bucket with lid
- Airline tubing
- Airline valve & matching size grommet
- Airline corner connector
- Airline holder sucker
Total cost was less than $5AUD as I already had the bucket.

I put a small hole in the bucket lid to allow air in, and a small hole at the bottom side of the bucket to the valve to control water flow. Basically it ended up being a drip feed... lol

It worked and I never had to touch it, till I added the sump and overflow... more about that later.