Budget Semi's vs Luxeon/Cree's

Steven Garland

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Has anyone used or tested Semi Royal Blue's and compared them to other makers like Luxeon ES,Cree,Luxeon T or SunPlus ? I would love to see some real world data comparing them and their performance against the top tier diodes.
 
Lest see
 
Luxeon cree diodes will last longer and take more power plus are more efficient. As long as you run semileds or epileds at 500mah your prolly fine. But for less than twice the cost cree or luxeon diode running at 1amp will give twice the light or more. Only spot where Chinese LEDs make sense is violet or ultravilult since no one sells luxeon violet in stars.

For instance you can get k16 luxeons for 6 bucks. That's 16 3 watt diodes on a single chip. Can't beat that best bang for buck for quality royal blue and fills the bulk of the spectrum anyway for a diy light
 
Agreed. I like cheap stuff and try to find bargains but, sometimes, you want to pay full price.

Now, that being said, if I have to run low power due to space restrictions, then I go with the knock off leds There is no point in not.
 
Luxeon cree diodes will last longer and take more power plus are more efficient. As long as you run semileds or epileds at 500mah your prolly fine. But for less than twice the cost cree or luxeon diode running at 1amp will give twice the light or more. Only spot where Chinese LEDs make sense is violet or ultravilult since no one sells luxeon violet in stars.

For instance you can get k16 luxeons for 6 bucks. That's 16 3 watt diodes on a single chip. Can't beat that best bang for buck for quality royal blue and fills the bulk of the spectrum anyway for a diy light
Agreed. I like cheap stuff and try to find bargains but, sometimes, you want to pay full price.

Now, that being said, if I have to run low power due to space restrictions, then I go with the knock off leds There is no point in not.


I completely agree,I have always used Luxeon Rebel ES,C & T(if I built the light),and Cree if I get something second-hand and Semi's for violets seeming that's the only economical choice for them. I don't particularly want to pay $16+$7 for shipping for Luxeon Z violets. Semi has a well enough rep for theirs at $3-$4 a piece.

I'm just asking because Steve's has Semi Royals and Neutrals for .99 I was thinking about grabbing a few of each to have.
 
I completely agree,I have always used Luxeon Rebel ES,C & T(if I built the light),and Cree if I get something second-hand and Semi's for violets seeming that's the only economical choice for them. I don't particularly want to pay $16+$7 for shipping for Luxeon Z violets. Semi has a well enough rep for theirs at $3-$4 a piece.

I'm just asking because Steve's has Semi Royals and Neutrals for .99 I was thinking about grabbing a few of each to have.
not really worth it in my mind. look at this or this or this or this a royal blue for every use case :) all for less than a buck a diode. vastly less in the last with 80 3 watt diodes for less than 20 bucks.
 
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not really worth it in my mind. look at this or this or this or this a royal blue for every use case :) all for less than a buck a diode. vastly less in the last with 80 3 watt diodes for less than 20 bucks.

Lux M's are some of the most ridiculous Royal's made. Have you ever seen them in person ?!
 
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Really should stick to "single" diodes over COB's or multi-chip boards..
K16's are listed as discontinued (all of the k line)..

You can get some toshiba multi-chips on eek bay as well..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-45W-LUXEON-Rebel-ES-Royal-Blue-16up-450nm-High-Power-Led-Emitter/262285567829?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


SPECIFICATIONS:
Watt: 45W

Size: 24.35x24.45mm
Viewing Angle: 140°
Emitting Color: Royal Blue
Nanometer: 447.5 - 452.5NM
Peak: 450NM
mW min.: 9000 mW
mW max.: 10800 mW

mA test.: 350 mA
DC forward current: 1050mA
mA peak: 1050 mA
V typ.: 42V
V min: 40V
V max.: 45.1 V
Item Part Number:LXK0-PR04-T016


Packing Included:

5pieces 45W Rebel ES Royal Blue 450nm LED

Typical "3W" Rebel Royal blue is 910mW

CREE xt-e Royal blue
450nm
37(N)

550mW

Bridgelux 3W "egg"

  • wavelength: 452-455nm
  • Forward voltage: 3.5V @700mA
  • Radiant flux: 400-420mW @ 350mA
  • Max. current: 700mA


 
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Why stick to single diode over cob or multichips? That goes against the trend in the industry for multiple groups tightly arrayed LEDs vs lots of LEDs spread out. Honestly suprised no one has tried to make a single cob and played with phosphors to make the perfect led.
 
Im not. People want to screw around with toys too much.

LOL

I believe I have found the perfect setup with my DIY one over my nano. But, it would never sell. You basically plug it in and put a timer on it. Sure, it would be nice to ramp up and down but I will never use a storm or cloud cover.
 
Why stick to single diode over cob or multichips? That goes against the trend in the industry for multiple groups tightly arrayed LEDs vs lots of LEDs spread out. Honestly suprised no one has tried to make a single cob and played with phosphors to make the perfect led.

Orig. poster was basically asking about different types..mostly considered small emitters certainly not COB's ect..
Semi Royal Blue's and compared them to other makers like Luxeon ES,Cree,Luxeon T or SunPlus
Was trying to keep on track of the orig question.. ;)

Orphek Atlantic, Phillips, black boxes, sb reef, reefbreeders somewhat bunch o small lights.. single emitters
Radion,Kessil AI Prime COB's or multichips
A few "hybrid" companies w// both COB's and single emitters
not inclusive of course or 100% accurate.. ;)

As long as T5's et at are still popular , small arrays aren't going to die..


The trend seems to shift w/ the wind at times...

Who would fab a "perfect" chip only to sell say a few 1000/year?

Most of what you get is industries "hand me downs" so to speak..repackaged.
Market is way too small..
Even Kessil..doesn't do " special phosphors" just canned diodes in a dense matrix..AFAICT
Won't even go into who considers what the perfect spectrum..:)
 
Why stick to single diode over cob or multichips? That goes against the trend in the industry for multiple groups tightly arrayed LEDs vs lots of LEDs spread out. Honestly suprised no one has tried to make a single cob and played with phosphors to make the perfect led.

Efficiency and thermals is one reason. A Luxeon C at test current (350mA) vs the 700mA on a Luxeon M is about 5% more efficient. The higher thermal loading for a multi-die package also is more challenging to design around.

As much as we like to rag on black boxes, they do have a good model of spreading out light.
 
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Im not. People want to screw around with toys too much.

LOL

I believe I have found the perfect setup with my DIY one over my nano. But, it would never sell. You basically plug it in and put a timer on it. Sure, it would be nice to ramp up and down but I will never use a storm or cloud cover.

Sharing is caring :) lets see some pics.
 
Why stick to single diode over cob or multichips? That goes against the trend in the industry for multiple groups tightly arrayed LEDs vs lots of LEDs spread out. Honestly suprised no one has tried to make a single cob and played with phosphors to make the perfect led.

I use 2x NanoBox 11up array's with 2 mints and 4 violets over my nano.

But back to the topic at hand,are cheaper alternatives worth saving the money and buying ( performance,select spectrum,ect ect) compared to the leading brands of diodes.
 
I use 2x NanoBox 11up array's with 2 mints and 4 violets over my nano.

But back to the topic at hand,are cheaper alternatives worth saving the money and buying ( performance,select spectrum,ect ect) compared to the leading brands of diodes.

I think I covered this, but, it depends on the usage. In small, lower powered setups, then it's fine to use the cheap ones. My nano has a mixture of cree, semiled and luxeon. My fuge lights that I put together use ebay cheapies. I also have a freshwater light I am putting together for my son's tank and it's almost all cheap ebay diodes except for a couple nice limes for color.
 
I think I covered this, but, it depends on the usage. In small, lower powered setups, then it's fine to use the cheap ones. My nano has a mixture of cree, semiled and luxeon. My fuge lights that I put together use ebay cheapies. I also have a freshwater light I am putting together for my son's tank and it's almost all cheap ebay diodes except for a couple nice limes for color.

Do you mind sharing some pics of the light and tank and all that good jazz ?
 
I will give a run down of the setup though:

Channel 1 (barely cracked on which would be about 10%) 2 x semileds 4500K and 1 Luxeon 470nm blue
Channel 2(80% approx.) 4 x luxeon RB and 4 x semiled 420nm violet
Channel 3 (about 20%) 2 x luxeon lime, 1 luxeon RB

The closest I can describe the color is my buddies kessil setup. He has two 360we set to 60% color and 60% intensity and on 360we set to 100% blue and 100% intensity over his 90 corner bow. He gets an annoying amount of shimmer with that setup but loves it. Mine looks like that with about 50% of the shimmer which I like.

These are run by manually dimmable inventronics drivers.

I plan on switching out the lime for mint and one 4500k for a cyan soon just to see if I like it better. But, I may just do this on an entirely new fixture and just plug it in place. I really like it right now and don't want to mess it up.

The LEDs are mounted on a 9.5x3x1.25 heatsink with two 60mm asus quiet fans. It's comically overkill cooling which should give it a long, long life. I have it about 14" above my 18"x18"x11" 15 gallon and the spread is edge to edge. I will have PAR numbers very soon. I use no lenses but, will try a diffuser soon as well.
 
I use 2x NanoBox 11up array's with 2 mints and 4 violets over my nano.

But back to the topic at hand,are cheaper alternatives worth saving the money and buying ( performance,select spectrum,ect ect) compared to the leading brands of diodes.

Hmmm, you know that is sort of a tricky question..

In the not to distant old days some el cheapos were about 1/2 the output at the same current as "branded" diodes.
Things change and it's not always that way..

Big difference is you usually know more or less exactly what they are w/ branded..
El cheapos from like eek bay are hit and miss as to what you are getting..not even sure one could guarantee wavelength, much less efficiency..

OLD days branded were like $4-$6 for "3w" when you can get el cheapos for 20 cents each..
At $2 /W one could buy a whole bunch of lesser diodes..
Even doubling (tripling, ect) the amount to get equiv was still cheap..
not as cheap as some believed.. but cheap.

Nowadays, and w/ COB's you $/w on quality is less..but not equal to el cheapos obviously.

Then there are "quality" egg diodes but ????
There are counterfeit "branded" diodes or branded "out of spec" and not commercially marketable as well.. (I assume. proof is a bit difficult)

Nothing is easy..That said nobody needs to spend a fortune on LED's (expense is in drivers/controllers/heat sinks ect.) to get a lot of power..

It would be difficult to believe that a well designed array w/ quality diodes wouldn't at the least be more energy efficient (industry goal is trending in that direction) than one w/
"generic"diodes..but that savings benefit is ??? depending on ind. energy rates.
 

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