Building a deeper stand than aquarium depth question

[cvrle1]

Hello everyone, I decided that I will use ever popular REs stand template for my stand. I do have a question in regards to width of stand vs tank width. My tank is 18" wide, however sump that I am looking into is 23" wide. This leaves me with predicament. I cant just build wider stand at 24", as then supports will not be sitting underneath the tank, no bueno. What would be easiest way to extend width of stand, so that I could have solid base for aquarium as REs template, but also enough room to fit wider sump underneath?

Thanks for the help

 

[Rjramos]

Hello everyone, I decided that I will use ever popular REs stand template for my stand. I do have a question in regards to depth of stand vs tank depth. My tank is 18" deep, however sump that I am looking into is 23" deep. This leaves me with predicament. I cant just build deeper stand at 24", as then supports will not be sitting underneath the tank, no bueno. What would be easiest way to extend depth of stand, so that I could have solid base for aquarium as REs template, but also enough room to fit deeper sump underneath?

Thanks for the help

Ok. Who is REs? Are you having the stand custom built or it’s a standard stand already cut to size ?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Still use RocketEngineer's design but add more "Joist" pieces in the top frame and top with 3/4 plywood.

 

[cvrle1]

Ok. Who is REs? Are you having the stand custom built or it’s a standard stand already cut to size ?

RE = RocketEngineer. He posted a template that a lot of folks used on RC that I will use to build my stand.

I hate PhotoBucket

 

[Rjramos]

Build it to RE’s specs but 40” tall to accommodate such a tall sump underneath

 

[redfishbluefish]

@cvrle1 here's a clear picture of it:

For those not aware, tanks up to four foot long, all 2x4's. Over 4 feet, the top frame needs to be 2x6's. Highly suggest skinning to keep the frame from racking and topping the stand with 3/4 plywood to "level" out the dimensional lumber. Oh, and no center brace is needed. FYI, this is so overly engineered, it can support .....well a tank....but the kind that shoots munitions.

 

[cvrle1]

@cvrle1 here's a clear picture of it:

For those not aware, tanks up to four foot long, all 2x4's. Over 4 feet, the top frame needs to be 2x6's. Highly suggest skinning to keep the frame from racking and topping the stand with 3/4 plywood to "level" out the dimensional lumber. Oh, and no center brace is needed. FYI, this is so overly engineered, it can support .....well a tank....but the kind that shoots munitions.

Thanks for that. And in case someone wants exact measurements, here they are from the original thread and RE himself:

The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.

Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.

Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"

Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors can be mounted to the legs as desired.

 

[cvrle1]

Build it to RE’s specs but 40” tall to accommodate such a tall sump underneath

Sump would only be 15 inches high, but it is a cube-ish design, so 24x24 or there about for lenght and width. I wanted to say width in the title, but for some reason said height. Cant change it now.

 

[kpl_creations]

I really like that design and wish I would have found this a week ago. Almost exactly what I came up with except I also built a torsion box across the top.

 

[Rjramos]

No doubt that will hold up a lot of weight! I don’t make my stands that fortified but they are strong. I rely on good square cuts, glueing, clamping, drilling, and then some nice size counter sunk screws. Basically front frame, back frame with braces in the middle. Front and back frame put together with 4 pieces of 2x4. Again same method, square cuts, glue, clamp, drill and screw everything together. I sometimes laminate on the outside sometimes but not with 3/4” plywood. Got a friend cabinet maker that just uses plywood to make aquarium stands and believe me, they support all the weight you need. Again, the most important part is how good the joints are put together.

 

[kpl_creations]

Again, the most important part is how good the joints are put together.

That's the key for sure. I probably should have ran all the 2x4's through the jointer and planer but I didn't feel like taking the time. Next one .....

 

[Rjramos]

That's the key for sure. I probably should have ran all the 2x4's through the jointer and planer but I didn't feel like taking the time. Next one .....

Not that everyone has access to a jointer or planer, but that is always best outcome of course. Selecting straight stock lumber is important. However, even with stock lumber, I have found that taking an edge off on both sides , (about 3/16”),through the table saw, lends to better joints with no gaps and a nice finish that doesn’t need lamination. Considering that you are making the pieces thinner of course. I will say, for those that don’t have the best tools or skills then by all means, this method is engineeringly strong and with result in a squared and plumbed stand.