Building a stand and sump

[SteveSTL]

Steve, the reason for going slightly over 48" and 24" is because a 120 is slightly larger once you consider the black frame that goes around the glass at the top and bottom. If the stand is exactly 48x24 it will be slightly undersized. (Unless he buys an acrylic tank)

Ahhh, that's why I stick to nanos. Next I'm going to do a 10 gallon seahorse/pipefish tank on a file cabinet because what better idea is there than having 10 gallons of water over your really important papers.

 

[JoshH]

There you go, easy to do and will support the shortened tank no problem

 

[singleshot]

I have come up with the following plans.. Please tell me if I am atleast somewhat accurate. The ideas are to have it 48 L, 24w, and 30 height. I am going to be doing something similar to @Bluefish9 's design.. well atleast if i can figure out how the diagonal pieces word .. I hope the numbers and everything is fairly clear. I took account the fact that the lengths aren't actually the correct length based on the logs losing some size.

This will work very well but is way over kill, you could do this with all 2x4s. If you wanted a greater span than 48" say 72 or more with out a center brace then a 2x6 or 2x8 depending on length would be needed but for a 48" span 2x4s will work. Just trying to save ya a little money on the wood.

 

[Be102]

This will work very well but is way over kill, you could do this with all 2x4s. If you wanted a greater span than 48" say 72 or more with out a center brace then a 2x6 or 2x8 depending on length would be needed but for a 48" span 2x4s will work. Just trying to save ya a little money on the wood.

Thanks man I appreciate the advice. My only concern was not distributing the weight effectively across the whole stand. I have since my original plans, decided to use a 2x6 rather than the 2x8.

 

[Be102]

There you go, easy to do and will support the shortened tank no problem

Thanks for this Josh. I really appreciate it. based on my original list a few back for supplies, I am thinking I need around 39 feet of 2x4s and I am still adding up the 2x6's sizing. Does this sound somewhat accurate? I basically just added all those pieces I listed earlier up, and then divided by feet. Got around 38.xxxx . I havent added the new setup's braces in though however. This really has been such a great learning experience. I am almost ready to go out and attempt to build this stand.. ( I think )

 

[Bluefish9]

Ahhh, that's why I stick to nanos. Next I'm going to do a 10 gallon seahorse/pipefish tank on a file cabinet because what better idea is there than having 10 gallons of water over your really important papers.

Hahahaha I hear that. Ive never done one of those small tanks but in all honesty Ive been flirting with trying out a pico on my nightstand...

 

[Be102]

Now that I have somewhat final plans for my stand. Can you guys recommend the set of screws you used that worked best? Some people said to predrill holes and all that fun stuff and I think all thats left is making sure I have the actual equipment and start this project all together. Some recommend glue and others do not.. Does anyone have any idea what I should do exactly? I have a drill at home and probably a lot of the bits.

 

[Bluefish9]

This is sort of what I am describing. I figured that the sizing inside the framing itself will be around 45 inches? ( 48 - 1 1/2 on each side) so I think that a 2x4 every 15 inches will be a good idea. Not really sure if this angle will be hard to set up and whatnot.. Just seems like it would be a smart idea considering my tank wont be actually resting on the posts. I can possibly even 'overkill' it more by adding either a 2x6 or just reinforce the green bars with even more green bars. Hopefully my messy sketch is still readable. Thanks again for everyone not giving up on me yet

By the way... those green 2x4's should extend all the way from top to bottom. In the drawing, they appear 1 1/2" too short.

 

[Be102]

By the way... those green 2x4's should extend all the way from top to bottom. In the drawing, they appear 1 1/2" too short.

Okay. Lol I originally had it that way, then I changed it... I assume it will just add some stability so why not have an extra 1 1/2 inch? Cant hurt in the long run.

 

[Bluefish9]

Again some might flog me for being overkill but I recommend these screws. Its what I used.
If you're painting the stand, the stainless finish isn't necessary but why not, right? In such a corrosive environment it just makes sense. Dont use the common black screws. They are for drywall and have much less shear strength

http://m.homedepot.com/p/PrimeSourc...obileweb_pip_rr-2-_-203354096-_-203354085-_-N

 

[JoshH]

These are the type of countersink bits you will need to be looking at. Usually not crazy expensive and much easier than pre drilling and then using a counter sink bit. as for screws go with either stainless or deck/exterior screws. Others might be okay but something of that nature isn't worth skimping on.

 

[Be102]

Again some might flog me for being overkill but I recommend these screws. Its what I used.
If you're painting the stand, the stainless finish isn't necessary but why not, right? In such a corrosive environment it just makes sense. Dont use the common black screws. They are for drywall and have much less shear strength

http://m.homedepot.com/p/PrimeSourc...obileweb_pip_rr-2-_-203354096-_-203354085-_-N

I assume one package would suffice? I am thinking about getting wood from lowes based on others reviews that it is more likely to be straight/less knots.. Not really sure if its a universal thing or just their local stores. I assume I can find the same, if not similar screws at lowes. Did you predrill the screws? I can't really remember the technical name for it.. I mentioned it before along with the other tool people said I should use.. I assume its something like 4 screws in each log? 2 one way 2 the other? Will the 2x6 work with those screws?

 

[Be102]

These are the type of countersink bits you will need to be looking at. Usually not crazy expensive and much easier than pre drilling and then using a counter sink bit. as for screws go with either stainless or deck/exterior screws. Others might be okay but something of that nature isn't worth skimping on.

Thanks for this. This is the part that comes before that second step we were discussing last night, right? I didn't realize theyre as simple as looking up 'countersink' at hd. Do you recommend a specific size/brand/anything else specific??

 

[JoshH]

just get a 4 pack they will have all your standard sizes you could need. manufacturers are irrelevant in this case as I'm betting you won't be a heavy user of them. And all you do is drill the hole first with one of these then screw in your screw.

 

[Be102]

just get a 4 pack they will have all your standard sizes you could need. manufacturers are irrelevant in this case as I'm betting you won't be a heavy user of them. And all you do is drill the hole first with one of these then screw in your screw.

Will they all work with what I am doing? Or will they list on the back something like ' for 2 1/2 screws, use bit #3"? Do I go hole by hole and remove the bit each time to use the screws? Do I just do half the screws with the countersink, and then move onto the screws?

 

[JoshH]

The sizing of the bits is related to the width of the screw head. just match the #on the bit to the #on the box of screws. And yes you can go hole by hole or you can swap out and screw as you go, ideally you have 2 drills, one for predrilling and the other for screwing.

 

[Bluefish9]

Since you are covering the stand with plywood or another decorative covering, you dont really need countersink bits. Just drill a pilot hole (smaller than the screws diameter) and drive it home. It will countersink itself. The countersink bits are nice if the screw holes are on decorative work. But not necessary on framework thats going to be covered

 

[Be102]

Since you are covering the stand with plywood or another decorative covering, you dont really need countersink bits. Just drill a pilot hole (smaller than the screws diameter) and drive it home. It will countersink itself. The countersink bits are nice if the screw holes are on decorative work. But not necessary on framework thats going to be covered

What sizing would I use as a predrill pilot hole? I will be going tomorrow to pick out my lumber and my screws along with a drill bits. I am just confused on what the sizing I would use between this (?) in green. The center will have a 45 inch spacing from the exterior bars, however it will lose some sizing I thinking based on the black bars that I also drew in.. Basically what @JoshH posted. I guess after I figure out my sizing for those I can get an idea what I need for the total lumber length.

2 2x6 (27) inches long will be used in front posts (blue)

2 2x6 (21.5) inches long ( yellow posts, also possibly an overkill)

2 2x6 (48 1/2) inches long (red posts)
= 194 inches. 194/12= 16.166667, so ultimately probably at minimum (3) 2x6s but I will probably get 4-5


2 2x4 ( 48 1/2) inches long ( orange posts)

4 2x4 (36) inches long (green posts)

5 2x4 (21 1/2) inches long ( black posts)

6 2x4 ( 27) inches long ( purple posts)
= 510.5 inches. 510.5/12 = 42.5416666667. I think I will end up needing at least 6 2x4s, so probably 7-8.

I still havent taken account for the bars that are labeled as the ?. How would I even go about attaching the screws in those weird angles? Do they harm the wood if I screw in diagonally? I can't really figure out other than two (or more) screws entering the end of the (?) where it overlaps the other black bar. I think all my measurements are correct... it starts to get confusing when i have so many redesigns .

 

[Bluefish9]

Use a 3/32 bit to pre-drill

 

[Be102]

Use a 3/32 bit to pre-drill

What's the difference between pressure treated wood and non? Is there a reason why a 2x4x8 is $2 and a 2x4x10 is $4? Should I just stick to the 2x4x8 and 2x6x8? I'll be going to the store soon and hopefully it'll all go well. I have set up my miter saw and got everything ready. So the unleveling situations.. can I fix / see that by using a level? I'll be going to lowes if that helps..