Building an Alanle style dual stage CO2 regulator

[X-37B]

I was going to build one but just bought one completed at a good price. Here it is. One piece of equipment I dont have to worry about.

 

[jlts21]

I did the same thing @90's reefer. I bought instead of built because with the stuff I was finding, I wasn’t going to save a whole lot building it myself. Anybody that is looking for a great reg but isn’t comfortable building one or can’t find items (like me) there are some great ones on eBay (pm me and I can provide the seller I used).

 

[X-37B]

I did the same thing @90's reefer. I bought instead of built because with the stuff I was finding, I wasn’t going to save a whole lot building it myself. Anybody that is looking for a great reg but isn’t comfortable building one or can’t find items (like me) there are some great ones on eBay (pm me and I can provide the seller I used).

Looks like one from affinityaquatics in Oregon. Nice!

 

[jlts21]

Looks like one from affinityaquatics in Oregon. Nice!

It actually is from affinityaquatics haha. Was a great seller to buy from and swapped out the tubing to RO tubing and added a check valve. Also had it packaged very well for shipping

 

[G Santana]

Water Dog, I recently purchased the same Air Products regulator pictured above ( Page 3) for a song, $50.00
and I also purchased two Burkert solenoid valves, 1 used for $18.00 complete with power cord and a new one just the valve.
My question is, do you use a bubble counter on your rigs or strictly use the valve to control the CO2.
I ask because this is my first time using/building a rig and in all the pics in this thread, I don't see a counter. If you do use one, where would it be located.
Thanks, new to regulators (been away for 20 yrs)

 

[Water Dog]

I never recommend for people to put bubble counters on their regulators. The bubble counters that attach to the regulators usually use very cheap internal check valves. They are also meant to be mounted above our very expensive and precise metering valves as well. If the check valves fail, I don’t want to damage my metering valve, so I don’t use them. I use the bubble counter on my calcium reactor or use this remote Fluval bubble counter away from the regulator.

 

[G Santana]

Thank you, that makes a lot of sense!!!
My last question before I go ordering the last pieces I need, is the Swagelok S series metering valve what you would recommend?

 

[Water Dog]

Preferably the 1/4” size in stainless steel, though the 1/8” size will work as well with extra fittings as seen in the beginning of this thread. So search eBay for “Swagelok ss-ss4“ for 1/4” or “Swagelok ss-ss2“ for 1/8” or “Hoke metering valve” and look for 1300 series valves ending in G4Y for 1/4” or G2Y for 1/8”.

 

[G Santana]

Thank you, you have been invaluable help!!!

 

[Afm32607]

So question about the bubble counter, mine is on the calcium reactor itself. Will that not work if I put a needle valve on? Always assumed the bubble counter was just there to give a visual representation of the gas entering the system.

On the same note, what do you use for a check valve (if it was posted already, I am sorry I missed it) and where do you place it? My reactor came with one for ro hoses, but its one of those cheap plastic ones for like $0.69. I don't want to take a chance and ruin the regulator with salt water.

edit: Final question, where did people source their CGA 320 connector from? Everywhere seems to have outrageous shipping charges for a $30 piece.

 

[Water Dog]

That bubble counter will work fine. What I was advising against was attaching it directly to the regulator, using a cheap bubble counter like this...



The Fluval bubble counter I referenced to a few posts above as well as any bubble counter attached to your calcium reactor will work fine.

I use a PVC check valve with a 1 psi cracking pressure. i have a Geo calcium reactor, so it gets attached directly to the bubble counter via threads, and to that, I attach a 1/4” John Guest quick connect fitting.

1/4" FNPT x 1/4" MNPT Series 426 PVC Check Valves with Buna-N Seals | U.S. Plastic Corp.

The 426 Check Valves incorporate a stainless ball that seals on a quad ring.

www.usplastic.com

As far “stainless steel CGA 320” fittings go, search the quoted term on ebay and you will find free shipping for one that costs $29.99.

 

[Afm32607]

Thanks for your help, would never have gotten this far without it.

 

[G Santana]

Water Dog I received my fittings from swagelok minus a couple, and I am trying to figure out how to secure the tube adapter to the metering valve and I can't quite get it. I am assuming that it's like a compression fitting but I can't get it to stay. Am I missing something?
Thanks

 

[Water Dog]

See my post #30 on page 2 of this thread. There is a video description from Swagelok that I linked on securing tube fittings as well.

 

[Billfromtr]

Thanks for your help Water Dog. Got mine put together.

 

[Water Dog]

Nice work!

 

[Bluedore]

Hello Fellow Reefers,
I recently picked up a AlanLe build SS regulator, I’ve been using the Carbon Doser for a few years. I want to make the switch over but are concerned it would cause Alk issues for my SPS during the switch over period. What’s the best way to make the switch over to minimize Alk issues and dial in? Any recommendations or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much in Advance!!!

 

[Water Dog]

Nice grab... What is your current bubble count and psi? Running a 2 stage regulator is a little different as it requires a bit more working pressure to maintain a stable bubble count. I would try maintain a consistent bubble count with the least amount of working pressure possible. With the high quality metering valves used in these custom regulators, that’s usually around 10 - 15 psi. Then adjust your bubble count to a little less than your current bubble count. Leave it alone for 24 hours and test your parameters from there... adjust accordingly.

 

[Bluedore]

Nice grab... What is your current bubble count and psi? Running a 2 stage regulator is a little different as it requires a bit more working pressure to maintain a stable bubble count. I would try maintain a consistent bubble count with the least amount of working pressure possible. With the high quality metering valves used in these custom regulators, that’s usually around 10 - 15 psi. Then adjust your bubble count to a little less than your current bubble count. Leave it alone for 24 hours and test your parameters from there... adjust accordingly.

Thank you Water Dog for your reply! Current Doser is set on 2.5 Psi and almost ten seconds per bubble. Pic attached.

 

[Water Dog]

So shoot for 15 seconds per bubble set at around 10-15 psi. Sounds crazy, but those kind of precise bubble counts are totally doable with these low flow metering valves.