Building stand for 90g, to support or not to support?

[Necrodaemus]

I’m in the process of building this stand for my 90g and was wondering if it’s necessary to place a support between the top and bottom boards (front and back). My brain tells me that they won’t sag but I want other opinions.

 

[fishguy242]

Hi , glass or acrylic ?
using plywood top ?

 

[Kmst80]

I would support no matter what.
But unless you tell us what timber you use and what sizes no one can make a informed decision.

 

[Kmst80]

I just saw its 120cm long, definitely support front and back. You don't want to build a red sea nightmare waiting to happen.

 

[royaleFork]

If you add supports in the front, either support side adding for a sump or make sure your sump fits in through the front.

 

[Necrodaemus]

Apologies for lacking further details as it was late last night when I posted. The tank is a glass 90g Seapora with black plastic braces on top and bottom (ie, not rimless). The wood is kiln dried pine and will not be using plywood on the top.

 

[Quietman]

Should work assuming 2x6 across the top. Take a look at the stand builds by King of DIY on YouTube. Not a huge fan of everything he does but the guy knows how to build an easy reliable safe stand from dimensional lumber.

 

[Necrodaemus]

Should work assuming 2x6 across the top. Take a look at the stand builds by King of DIY on YouTube. Not a huge fan of everything he does but the guy knows how to build an easy reliable safe stand from dimensional lumber.

The lumber is all 2x4’s. I’ve watched several of his videos and he’s basically following these same RocketEngineer plans on his stands.

 

[Quietman]

2x4's will work fine. You shouldn't need any support in the middle. With a framed tank there's a bit more leeway. Here's the King of DIY vid (and he has a ton). If you want something a bit different with more room underneath I'll also post a link to the the Fishman on a build he did (part a).

Good luck!

 

[Necrodaemus]

2x4's will work fine. You shouldn't need any support in the middle. With a framed tank there's a bit more leeway. Here's the King of DIY vid (and he has a ton). If you want something a bit different with more room underneath I'll also post a link to the the Fishman on a build he did (part a).

Good luck!

Awesome, thanks! From what I understand, with framed tanks, the corners are where the support is needed most and these plans are designed for exactly that.
That plywood stand is really nice, simple, and definitely provides more room inside! I already have the lumber to start the RocketEngineering design so I’ll just continue with that route.

 

[PotatoPig]

Awesome, thanks! From what I understand, with framed tanks, the corners are where the support is needed most and these plans are designed for exactly that.
That plywood stand is really nice, simple, and definitely provides more room inside! I already have the lumber to start the RocketEngineering design so I’ll just continue with that route.

Right. Framed tanks span from one end to the other. The manufacturers often allude to this telling you it’s critical to support the corners.

Adding center support is actually more risky on these tanks as unless it’s perfectly aligned with the ends you risk it being higher, even by a fraction of an inch, and effectively taking all the load on that side at the middle, way outside of the tank design.

 

[Harpo]

Sorry but with 2x4 I would add a center brace.

 

[Uncle99]

Apologies for lacking further details as it was late last night when I posted. The tank is a glass 90g Seapora with black plastic braces on top and bottom (ie, not rimless). The wood is kiln dried pine and will not be using plywood on the top.

I would use the plywood on the top.
It will help ensure those top members don’t warp, which can lead to glass failure.
The plywood helps to spread out that 1000 lbs more evenly.

 

[Necrodaemus]

I would use the plywood on the top.
It will help ensure those top members don’t warp, which can lead to glass failure.
The plywood helps to spread out that 1000 lbs more evenly.

A 2x4, positioned vertically can support 1,000 pounds per linear foot. It’s not going to flex, warp or bend in that position. There are 2 braces between front and back members to prevent any significant inward/outward bowing. All of these are KD pieces as well.

 

[Uncle99]

A 2x4, positioned vertically can support 1,000 pounds per linear foot. It’s not going to flex, warp or bend in that position. There are 2 braces between front and back members to prevent any significant inward/outward bowing. All of these are KD pieces as well.

I though the same thing a few years ago.

The warp would be something you could never see by eye.

It may create a pressure point in the glass when you don’t even know it’s their.

Especially that brand tank.

 

[Necrodaemus]

I though the same thing a few years ago.

The warp would be something you could never see by eye.

It may create a pressure point in the glass when you don’t even know it’s their.

Especially that brand tank.

What’s wrong with Seapora tanks?

 

[Uncle99]

What’s wrong with Seapora tanks?

Nothing wrong Seapora tanks that are placed on solid framing.
Thicker the glass, less the chance of failure. Standard glass thickness.

If your happy without the flat surface under the tank just go ahead that way.

I’ve only ever had one tank without a flat surface, that one failed not at the seam, but right in the middle of the glass.

Post mortum showed that the front member warped just a hair so that the glass was push inwards on itself and at one point just failed. Likely some water got on the cross member and it over time, swelled.

Did take a year though.