Bulk Ca and alk powders vs ESV 2part

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Hey all,

I have been thinking about switching my two part from ESV after the last two gallons are gone. I am at 1 ml a day each into an 80g total water volume system.

I just started dosing Acropower at 1/4 the recommended amount and will slowly move to 1/2 and see how it reacts.

I am looking into the BRS type 2 parts. Ca/alk

I noticed there is magnesium in the esv one and have never really worried about adding it because I do 10% water changes weekly. If I have to I can use the bulk mag as well.

is there anything I need to be aware of when I attempt the switch.
 
Yes, I have watched that. Maybe I will watch it again...

my main concern is that the trace elements in the esv will be missed or will that be replaced with the Acropower and would I be fine just switching?
 
Hey all,

I have been thinking about switching my two part from ESV after the last two gallons are gone. I am at 1 ml a day each into an 80g total water volume system.

I just started dosing Acropower at 1/4 the recommended amount and will slowly move to 1/2 and see how it reacts.

I am looking into the BRS type 2 parts. Ca/alk

I noticed there is magnesium in the esv one and have never really worried about adding it because I do 10% water changes weekly. If I have to I can use the bulk mag as well.

is there anything I need to be aware of when I attempt the switch.

My recommendation is add the magnesium part as directed (it is not testing based) because it is not just a magnesium supplement (sulfate balancing too).

Potassium may decline over time and you may need to watch it. The other minor elements (e.g., bromide, borate, etc.) may also decline but the water change should keep it mostly most OK.
 
Yes, I have watched that. Maybe I will watch it again...

my main concern is that the trace elements in the esv will be missed or will that be replaced with the Acropower and would I be fine just switching?

ESV B-ionic is not a trace element supplement. The amount added is not enough to offset any sort of demand in the tank (and is not intented to). Get a supplement for that.
 
I think you 10% weekly w/c will be plenty to replenish trace elements

Is it? How do you know?

I think certain trace elements, such as iron and manganese and often silicate (not a trace element) deplete so fast that water changes cannot maintain them.
 
Is it? How do you know?

I think certain trace elements, such as iron and manganese and often silicate (not a trace element) deplete so fast that water changes cannot maintain them.
Just going off what the BRS folks said in their 2 part video
 
My recommendation is add the magnesium part as directed (it is not testing based) because it is not just a magnesium supplement (sulfate balancing too).

Potassium may decline over time and you may need to watch it. The other minor elements (e.g., bromide, borate, etc.) may also decline but the water change should keep it mostly most OK.
I have started Acropower, is that something that will have potassium in it? (400ppm right?) If not what product would you recommend?

Also my mag is 1320 and I’m using fritz blue box, have not dosed mag in while.
 
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Just going off what the BRS folks said in their 2 part video

If that's what they said, they are incorrect.

All of the elements there, beside calcium chloride and sodium bicarbonate/carbonate are present to correct for the problems that arise as the sodium chloride accumulates over time. Balling adds all these others back in a sodium chloride free salt mix to prevent that accumulation, and a two part like ESV B-ionic adds those ions in one of the two parts.

But just because something is present, does not mean it actually causes that element to rise. Use of B-ionic may lower some trace elements, even though they are present in it.

here's an example from a paper of mine:

The Many Methods for Supplementing Calcium and Alkalinity - REEFEDITION

from it:

One issue that has confused some reef keepers, however, is the presence of trace elements. Assuming that these products are actually formulated with every ion such that a true natural seawater residue remained (let’s call this the “ideal” product), then it will necessarily contain such ions as copper. Since copper is elevated in some reef tanks, and is toxic to many invertebrates, reef keepers have wrongly criticized this method as adding more copper. That’s actually not what would happen. Since these products leave a natural seawater residue, and since copper may be elevated in concentration in many reef tanks relative to seawater, then using these “ideal” products will actually LOWER copper levels because when the increase in salinity is corrected, the copper will drop.

For example:

You have copper in your aquarium at 4 ppb and salinity of S=35.

You add a two part additive that over the course of a month raises salinity to S=36, and raises copper to 4.02 ppb.

Then you correct the salinity back to S=35 by diluting everything in the tank with fresh water, and you get a final copper concentration of 3.9 ppb.

Does this happen in real products and not “ideal” products? I have no idea. But the statement by manufacturers that it contains all ions in natural ratios, including copper, should not be viewed as a concern that it is exacerbating a heavy metal problem.

The rise in salinity of these products over time can be very roughly calculated, though there are several reasons why this calculation is only an estimate. For every 1000 meq of alkalinity added in this fashion (and the matching amount of calcium) these products will deliver on the order of 60 grams of other ions to the tank. In a tank with a low calcification demand (defined later to be 18.3 thousand meq of alkalinity per year in a 100 gallon tank (0.4 dKH/day)) this effect will raise the salinity by 3 ppt per year (compared to a normal salinity of S ~35). In a high demand tank (defined later to be 219 thousand meq of alkalinity per year in a 100 gallon tank (4.4 dKH/day)), the salinity will rise by 35 ppt in a year, or approximately doubling the salinity. Consequently, the salinity should be monitored closely in using these types of additives, especially in a tank with high calcification rates.
 
I have started Acropower, is that something that will have potassium in it? (400ppm right?) If not what product would you recommend?

Also my mag is 1320 and I’m using fritz blue box, have not dosed mag in while.

I'd recommend a test before adding any (ICP is good for potassium) and then dose potassium chloride, only if needed.

This is a good product for potassium:
 

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