Bulkhead still leaking and I'm about to scream

[AZDesertRat]

They would be considered the same.
http://www.laco.com/pipe-thread-sealants/plasto-joint-stik-/
http://spearsmfg.com/tech_updates/TECH-2-No.111_web.pdf
http://lascofittings.com/threads

 

[glb]

They would be considered the same.
http://www.laco.com/pipe-thread-sealants/plasto-joint-stik-/
http://spearsmfg.com/tech_updates/TECH-2-No.111_web.pdf
http://lascofittings.com/threads

Thanks! That last article really spells it out. I'm going to get one of those joint stiks and try again.

 

[AZDesertRat]

My in ground swimming pool was installed in 1983, 33 years ago this summer. When the contractor installed all the 1.5" and 2" PVC plumbing for the pumps, valves and filter they used a LaCo thread lubricant stick.
Last year I replaced the main pump with a new energy efficient model and amazingly the LaCo was still pliable on the threads and everything came apart and went back together smoothly. That is 33 years in the direct Arizona sun!
The PVC people really know what they are talking about. I keep two LaCo sticks in my toolbox. I also have one from Ace or True Value which is probably just a private labelled LaCo stick made for them. It really works. My 100G reef was plumbed with almost all threaded fittings 13 years ago using LaCo PVC thread lubricant and is still drip tight to this day. A few minutes preparation time cleaning the threads and sealing surfaces and proper installation makes a world of difference!

 

[glb]

My in ground swimming pool was installed in 1983, 33 years ago this summer. When the contractor installed all the 1.5" and 2" PVC plumbing for the pumps, valves and filter they used a LaCo thread lubricant stick.
Last year I replaced the main pump with a new energy efficient model and amazingly the LaCo was still pliable on the threads and everything came apart and went back together smoothly. That is 33 years in the direct Arizona sun!
The PVC people really know what they are talking about. I keep two LaCo sticks in my toolbox. I also have one from Ace or True Value which is probably just a private labelled LaCo stick made for them. It really works. My 100G reef was plumbed with almost all threaded fittings 13 years ago using LaCo PVC thread lubricant and is still drip tight to this day. A few minutes preparation time cleaning the threads and sealing surfaces and proper installation makes a world of difference!

I just ordered some. Since my bulkhead has the threads for the nut inside the overflow box (exposed to the water), should i just put this stuff at the base of the bulkhead, where the nut will be? I read that it's very sticky and wonder if it would be a problem if the exposed threads in the box had this on them.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Most of their products are considered "Green" environmentally safe products. I don't see the NSF label on the Plasto-Joint only that is meets the UPC but I see the Slik-Tite stick carries the NSF label as well. I've never had any problems with the Plasto-Joint though in the 30+ years I have been using it both in my water profession as well as my hobbies.

 

[glb]

Most of their products are considered "Green" environmentally safe products. I don't see the NSF label on the Plasto-Joint only that is meets the UPC but I see the Slik-Tite stick carries the NSF label as well. I've never had any problems with the Plasto-Joint though in the 30+ years I have been using it both in my water profession as well as my hobbies.

Sounds good. I'll use this on the threads. But my leak is at the gasket. I take it I shouldn't use it there. Or can I? It's a miniscule leak.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Not on the gasket. Try looking at the flange surface, rub your fingers on it to see if there are any imperfections keeping the gasket from sealing. Normally if the gasket is new, the surfaces are clean and dry, the hole is drilled the correct diameter so the bulkhead is not sloppy and gets a good seal all around and you don't under or overtighten gasket leaks are almost never. Something isn't adding up? Do you have a close up pic of the hole and the bulkhead? No chips in the glass? The bulkhead fits snugly with little to no side to side movement? The bulkhead flange is flat and true with no seamlines or excess flashing plastic?

 

[glb]

Not on the gasket. Try looking at the flange surface, rub your fingers on it to see if there are any imperfections keeping the gasket from sealing. Normally if the gasket is new, the surfaces are clean and dry, the hole is drilled the correct diameter so the bulkhead is not sloppy and gets a good seal all around and you don't under or overtighten gasket leaks are almost never. Something isn't adding up? Do you have a close up pic of the hole and the bulkhead? No chips in the glass? The bulkhead fits snugly with little to no side to side movement? The bulkhead flange is flat and true with no seamlines or excess flashing plastic?

I'll take it apart when I get home and check. I initially put the teflon paste everywhere so maybe cleaning it off will help. I'll post pics when I get home.

 

[AZDesertRat]

If it is the gasket pay particular attention to the mating surfaces. A chip in the glass or a poorly fitting bulkhead can be a problem, same with surface imperfections on the bulkhead flange. Everything needs to be smooth, snug fit and clean for it to all seal well. Sometimes a leak from the pipe or fitting is mistaken for a gasket leak too. Could be as simple as unscrewing a fitting, cleaning the threads out with a xacto knife or jewelers file, putting a light coat of Plasto Seal on the threads and reinstalling it.

 

[glb]

Will do. Thanks for your (extensive) help!

 

[Tautog]

Once you screw up a gasket they tend to leak. Use 5200, it's a chalk that hardens like a rock. Once you use this product, removing it is almost impossible. You can drill thru it, without cracking. Great stuff, but permanent. I use this stuff on my pond, and on my boat.

 

[glb]

Ok, I took the whole thing apart and took pics. There's a ridge on the bulkhead that I can sand down:

There are also two small chips in the glass. One's on the inside and one's on the outside. They're hard to see because of the paint on the back of the tank. The paint is chipped but the glass chips are smaller. Here's the one on the inside:

If you follow the top white reflection to the hole, the chip is just to the right of it. It's easily covered by the gasket.

Here's the one in the back:

It's magnified here and it's covered by the gasket. The chipped paint is bigger than the chip.

I got the pvc sealant that AZ Desert Rat recommended. I'll sand down the ridges on bulkhead and look for any more rough spots. Any more suggestions? Anything I need to do about the chips?

 

[glb]

Bump.

 

[AZDesertRat]

That last chip looks pretty bad.
On the bulkhead, is that ridge or seam cracked or is it a shadow you can see by the outside edge?

 

[glb]

That last chip looks pretty bad.
On the bulkhead, is that ridge or seam cracked or is it a shadow you can see by the outside edge?

I think it goes all the way out to the edge. I took some superfine sandpaper and smoothed it out. The last chip is smaller in person, maybe the size of the tip of a q-tip.

 

[glb]

I put it back together and still had a very small leak, but in a different place. I dabbed a little bit of silicone over the spot. If it holds, I'll leave it for now. If not, I'll peel it off. I'm really fed up at this point.

 

[glb]

No more leak! I'm going to run the system for several hours today to make sure.