Burnt Coralites

I am so sorry. When you said a serpent star was melting, I was like **** this is crazy bad.

Any paly in that tank? I meant to ask before (or maybe I did)?
Have quite a few growing on the back glass and some crevices. They are actually all good. Softies are all good. Pretty much everything else sucks. I just threw another wav pump to increase the flow in the tank.
 
I am so sorry. When you said a serpent star was melting, I was like **** this is crazy bad.

Any paly in that tank? I meant to ask before (or maybe I did)?
Also just dumped 2000mg of fish mox into the tank.
 
Think my mandarin may be dead now also. I am basically at the point where I have realized there is no point to keep this tank going. Over the next few days I will find homes for whatever is alive and bleach and start from fresh. I can't believe a treatment being touted on this website can cause so much devastation.
Sorry about that. I am not sure you need to do that. But - support it if you do. Sorry to hear the problems - to me - the key is getting anything dying or dead out of the tank. Have you happened to re-check your parameters (ammonia, etc)
 
Sorry about that. I am not sure you need to do that. But - support it if you do. Sorry to hear the problems - to me - the key is getting anything dying or dead out of the tank. Have you happened to re-check your parameters (ammonia, etc)

Water parameters are all in check.
 
BTW - please don't take this the wrong way - IMHO - this is one of those times where that phrase 'nothing GOOD happens fast in this hobby' - Frankly I do not like that phrase - but - in any case - I think you're trying too much adding antibiotics etc for no reason - you may be doing too much too fast - which I tried to say the other day. Gradual changes in this situation (except water changes) - are key - I believe I gave you the calculator to help you figure how many and how often you will need to get what ever is causing the problem to 'go away' - since its probably not something you can measure. You're adding reef energy, you're changing the flow, you're adding iodine, and antibiotics, changing your lights, etc. It may be just that you should do water changes and be patient (and take everything dead out of the tank) - I.e Frag. Again - I have been through this before and the tendency is to do 'something' - but often its best to wait. Especially if you're thinking of taking everything down anyway?
 
In case the flux caused a die off which caused some type of bacteria overgrowth such as vibrio to take hold in the tank. Really have nothing to lose st this point.
If you add antibiotics, you risk messing up your beneficial bacteria - and it will be quickly removed anyway - by the carbon and polyfilter - and water changes - right?
 
BTW - please don't take this the wrong way - IMHO - this is one of those times where that phrase 'nothing GOOD happens fast in this hobby' - Frankly I do not like that phrase - but - in any case - I think you're trying too much adding antibiotics etc for no reason - you may be doing too much too fast - which I tried to say the other day. Gradual changes in this situation (except water changes) - are key - I believe I gave you the calculator to help you figure how many and how often you will need to get what ever is causing the problem to 'go away' - since its probably not something you can measure. You're adding reef energy, you're changing the flow, you're adding iodine, and antibiotics, changing your lights, etc. It may be just that you should do water changes and be patient (and take everything dead out of the tank) - I.e Frag. Again - I have been through this before and the tendency is to do 'something' - but often its best to wait. Especially if you're thinking of taking everything down anyway?

Normally I would agree except things continue to get worse. It's been a month since the flucanazole treatment and things continue to look worse. Now my fish and inverts are dying.
 
Normally I would agree except things continue to get worse. It's been a month since the flucanazole treatment and things continue to look worse. Now my fish and inverts are dying.
I just tagged the reef squad - hopefully they can help out!
 
If you add antibiotics, you risk messing up your beneficial bacteria - and it will be quickly removed anyway - by the carbon and polyfilter - and water changes - right?

Yanked polyfilter and carbon. In total I have changed over 360 gallons of water in my tank in the last month. Went through a 200 gallon box of salt and just finished up a 160 gallon bucket.
 
There was a tank in town that my LFS serviced for years. Very mature mixed reef. Due to a bryopsis problem, they dosed Fluc and everything went south fast. Even a bunch of nasty, ugly brown paly was all closed up when I got there. All parameters were nominal and even the ICP was nominal.

All SPS and LPS were dead and removed within days and the fish died in fairly short order. WCs probably not aggressive. A week or so later, the service guys did an extensive reboot taking out all the paly rock. Both got sick, one in a bad way losing most of his vision in one eye.

I don't know if the palytoxin was cause or effect of the system crash. It is rare, but I guess that fungicide attacks some kind of organism with a strong chemical defense.
 
There was a tank in town that my LFS serviced for years. Very mature mixed reef. Due to a bryopsis problem, they dosed Fluc and everything went south fast. Even a bunch of nasty, ugly brown paly was all closed up when I got there. All parameters were nominal and even the ICP was nominal.

All SPS and LPS were dead and removed within days and the fish died in fairly short order. WCs probably not aggressive. A week or so later, the service guys did an extensive reboot taking out all the paly rock. Both got sick, one in a bad way losing most of his vision in one eye.

I don't know if the palytoxin was cause or effect of the system crash. It is rare, but I guess that fungicide attacks some kind of organism with a strong chemical defense.
IMHO - the problem is what I mentioned before - you have something in the tank - causing constant chemical problems - leading in death - which leads to ammonia - its a downward spiral. Who knows - you might also have some parasite now because of the stress, etc. Have you considered removing your fish and other living things (except coral) to a QT tank - changing water - and then just watching the coral - and watching what happens over a couple weeks. I.e. save what you can? PS - I was curious - how much water were you changing each time - and how often?
 
IMHO - the problem is what I mentioned before - you have something in the tank - causing constant chemical problems - leading in death - which leads to ammonia - its a downward spiral. Who knows - you might also have some parasite now because of the stress, etc. Have you considered removing your fish and other living things (except coral) to a QT tank - changing water - and then just watching the coral - and watching what happens over a couple weeks. I.e. save what you can? PS - I was curious - how much water were you changing each time - and how often?
30 gallons every 3rd day. I don't have room or space to Quarantine everything. Whatever happens in that tank is on its own at this point. To much stress and over a decade of work going into it. I am over it but hope when people do a search about bryopsis and Flucanazole this thread comes up and they can read all about what happens when you use it. Definitly no parasites in the tank. Its all related to Flucanazole killing something that continues to release toxins into the water. Maybe some type of sponge? Ammomia is 0 and nitrite is 0 so neither are responsible for what is happening.
 
30 gallons every 3rd day. I don't have room or space to Quarantine everything. Whatever happens in that tank is on its own at this point. To much stress and over a decade of work going into it. I am over it but hope when people do a search about bryopsis and Flucanazole this thread comes up and they can read all about what happens when you use it. Definitly no parasites in the tank. Its all related to Flucanazole killing something that continues to release toxins into the water. Maybe some type of sponge? Ammomia is 0 and nitrite is 0 so neither are responsible for what is happening.
your tank is 90 gallons correct? I might be misremembering that. If you use the water change calculator I put up a could days ago - lets say the chemical you're trying to remove started at 100 ppm - and 20 ppm were created between changes (of course this is made up because no one knows - how fast a 'toxin' is building up) - but this is just to illustrate. If you did 6 changes at that level - after the 6th change you would have reduced the 'toxin' to about 45 percent. If your tank is bigger than 90 gallons - of course the toxin levels would be higher. The point - after 18 days - you've only removed about 50 percent of the toxins in the tank (assuming 90 gallons and every 3 day 30 gallon changes). I.e. your 'animals' have been exposed still to significant amounts of 'whatever is causing the problem' - for 18 days. This is - IMHO what leads to the cascade - and My guess its non-measurable 'toxins' - with periodic ammonia rises, etc. The reason to suggest removing the fish you can - even if its into a brute with a heater and a small sponge filter and some added bacteria in a bottle - is that at least you take away repeated fish deaths - and their toxins from the equation. PS - I wonder if its the zoas that are constantly irritated and releasing 'something'. PS - I agree with you - I try not to use antibiotics in the tank (or fluconazole) - it seems to always cause more problems that its solving. Again sorry you have had to go through this.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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