Cabinet Hinges

[PugsAndFish]

I'm building a cabinet/stand for my tank and am going after the ADA style look. How do I attached the door by a hinge and install a push latch? I've never done a cabinet door before so I don't know what parts I need to purchase.

Can someone post links from HD or Lowe's of the parts I need?

This is where I am so far.

 

[hwntunda]

1 or 2 doors?

 

[PugsAndFish]

1 or 2 doors?

It'll just be 1 door. The stand is 24 inches wide and made of 3/4 inch birch plywood

 

[hwntunda]

These will work

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty...rameless-Hinge-1-Pair-HC11SFC-NP-C5/100128843

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Single-Magnetic-Touch-Latch-Brown-1-Pack-9235969/303007767

 

[PugsAndFish]

These will work

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty...rameless-Hinge-1-Pair-HC11SFC-NP-C5/100128843

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Single-Magnetic-Touch-Latch-Brown-1-Pack-9235969/303007767

Do I need a special drill bit to install these?

 

[hwntunda]

Installation guide says 35mm hole saw.
A 1 3/8” hole saw would probably be easier to find though.

 

[hwntunda]

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/a4/a4cd6a63-cf8c-4826-9a95-3496b7e7ce59.pdf

 

[Erica-Renee]

They make bits especially for those hinges There is also a Surface mount Version that does not need bore hole

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

these are called European or cup hinges. they are ABSOLUTELY the way to go.

you need to make sure you get the correct hinge. depending on if the door is flush mount (meaning it sits inside the case) or the door covers the entire front of the case.

they are easy to install and they adjust in and out and up and down. they sell the bits and I would also highly suggest you get a hinge guide to drill the holes. something like this..

https://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-AN01...ocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-273260077879&psc=1

cheers and welcome to the subtractive art of woodworking

 

[PugsAndFish]

Thanks everyone. I stopped by HD to pick up hinges. I was able to find a 35mm bit for the hinge and a single magnetic touch latch. (Thanks @hwntunda ) The touch latch seems like an easy install.

I tried picking the right hinge but got super confused after seeing dozens of varieties. I asked some workers and each admitted they didn't know much about hinges so I was left to try to search for the right one based on the links in this forum and a quick Google search.

There seemed to be 2 types of hinges - framed vs frameless. I believe my cabinet is considered frameless so I picked these up. It's an Everbilt Full Overlay Frameless Hinge. I didn't know what a 1/2, 1/4, full overlay was but got the full overlay based on @hwntunda 's link which seems like a full overlay.

Did I pick the right one?

On a side note, I picked up some primer and paint. My plan is apply 2 coats of Kilz on the inside (in case I decide to use a sump in the future) and then apply an oil based paint. For the exterior, I was planning to get a primer + paint all in one can but I couldn't find a oil based on. So, I'm thinking of using the primer and paint I'll be using on the inside for the outside as well. For the outside, do I need to use the primer or can I just do paint right away? Also, where in the process does sanding come in place?

Thanks in advance for answering these simple questions. I'm not the most handy person so I feel dumb asking simple questions about how to paint but I appreciate the help.

 

[hwntunda]

Thanks everyone. I stopped by HD to pick up hinges. I was able to find a 35mm bit for the hinge and a single magnetic touch latch. (Thanks @hwntunda ) The touch latch seems like an easy install.

I tried picking the right hinge but got super confused after seeing dozens of varieties. I asked some workers and each admitted they didn't know much about hinges so I was left to try to search for the right one based on the links in this forum and a quick Google search.

There seemed to be 2 types of hinges - framed vs frameless. I believe my cabinet is considered frameless so I picked these up. It's an Everbilt Full Overlay Frameless Hinge. I didn't know what a 1/2, 1/4, full overlay was but got the full overlay based on @hwntunda 's link which seems like a full overlay.

Did I pick the right one?

On a side note, I picked up some primer and paint. My plan is apply 2 coats of Kilz on the inside (in case I decide to use a sump in the future) and then apply an oil based paint. For the exterior, I was planning to get a primer + paint all in one can but I couldn't find a oil based on. So, I'm thinking of using the primer and paint I'll be using on the inside for the outside as well. For the outside, do I need to use the primer or can I just do paint right away? Also, where in the process does sanding come in place?

Thanks in advance for answering these simple questions. I'm not the most handy person so I feel dumb asking simple questions about how to paint but I appreciate the help.

The full overlay hinge is the type you want but I’m not sure how the “soft close” type will work with the “push close latch” will work together but please keep us updated as you progress!

 

[PugsAndFish]

The full overlay hinge is the type you want but I’m not sure how the “soft close” type will work with the “push close latch” will work together but please keep us updated as you progress!

Awesome! If both don't work together, I can just remove the latch. Was only $2

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/understanding-hinges/

here...

 

[PugsAndFish]

I'm pretty much done but am having trouble adjusting the hinge to make the door sit flush.

As you can see, the door isn't flat against the cabinet.

I've adjusted the screw all the way to the right to make the door close to the cabinet as possible but that isn't doing it.

What do I need to make the door flush?

 

[Matthew Frost]

It will stand off from the cabinet a little bit 1/8" or so because of the way the hinge works. If it didn't have that slight stand off it would "scuff" the cabinet just a little every time you opened and closed the door.

 

[doughboy]

I researched the cabinet design before I built my stand, also 24” x 24” and used the design of Red Sea stand.

They have a top piece that protrudes out so the door will be flush. The front horizontal support piece goes behind the door.

The other design I considered was the Elos tank stand, where the door takes up the whole front so the tank actually overhangs out 3/4” past the stand.

Ideally you want it flush, but I think once the tank is there, the slight protrusion of the door beyond the upper horizontal support won’t be noticed.

 

[PugsAndFish]

Thanks. I guess this'll have to do.

@doughboy I tried to do what you posted as the first pic but I think the top piece that protrudes out is too short lol. I didn't know the door wouldn't be 100% flush so I measured the profusion to be ~.7 inches, the thickness of the door. I should've measured the profusion to be a little thicker.

 

[doughboy]

Thanks. I guess this'll have to do.

@doughboy I tried to do what you posted as the first pic but I think the top piece that protrudes out is too short lol. I didn't know the door wouldn't be 100% flush so I measured the profusion to be ~.7 inches, the thickness of the door. I should've measured the profusion to be a little thicker.

I think it should be fine.

But if you are OCD, it can still be fixed if you want to spend more time on it.
you can for instance move the upper horizontal support inset. meaning move it to inside the left, right and top panels. Then make a new door that covers the entire front. This will make it like an Elos style stand.

another option is to sand down the current left and right side edges where the front door overlaps by 1/8". or remove the horizontal support and sand down the left and right side edges down, then install the horizontal support inset.

I think generally speaking, the door should really cover the upper horizontal support, so there is no gap where you can see the inside of the cabinet, say if you have some kind of algae scrubber light that comes on at night, you don't want that light to shine out through the gap.

 

[PugsAndFish]

I think it should be fine.

But if you are OCD, it can still be fixed if you want to spend more time on it.
you can for instance move the upper horizontal support inset. meaning move it to inside the left, right and top panels. Then make a new door that covers the entire front. This will make it like an Elos style stand.

another option is to sand down the current left and right side edges where the front door overlaps by 1/8". or remove the horizontal support and sand down the left and right side edges down, then install the horizontal support inset.

I think generally speaking, the door should really cover the upper horizontal support, so there is no gap where you can see the inside of the cabinet, say if you have some kind of algae scrubber light that comes on at night, you don't want that light to shine out through the gap.

Oh man that sounds like a lot of work lol. I built this at my folks house and spent 7 days doing so. 1 day for a coat of primer, 1 day for another coat of primer, 1 day for a coat of paint, 1 day for another coat of paint, and 3 days for shopping and cutting and putting together the structure. All done commuting between NY and NJ.

Thanks for the advice. I may consider doing it after the weariness goes away and if I never get used to the protruding door lol.