childress5tyler
Well-Known Member
Hey everybody, how do you know when your calcium reactor is dialed in? Do you test the water coming out of the reactor or is based off of the water in your tank? Thanks
Calcium reactor question
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childress5tyler
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My alk is 9.968 via Hanna, and my drip rate is 66 drips/minute. I'm going to keep that rate for a solid month just to see where my alk settles. I've been messing with my calcium reactor lately and haven't had a ton of consistancy; it's not all over the chart but definitely not as stable as I would like. Thanks for the reply
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childress5tyler
Well-Known Member
Higher drip rate= higher calcium, higher alk
Lower drip rate= lower calcium, lower alk
Does CO2 factor in on alk?
Lower drip rate= lower calcium, lower alk
Does CO2 factor in on alk?
mc-cro
Active Member
If you need to increase the amount of alk going into the tank. this can be achieved one of two ways: either increase the potency of the effluent, or the actual amount of the effluent.
So in option A, you dont change your drip rate, you lower the PH of the reactor, which dissolves more media increasing the potency.
In option B, you dont touch the PH of the reactor, you just increase the drip rate
either of these options puts more calc/alk into the tank.
So in option A, you dont change your drip rate, you lower the PH of the reactor, which dissolves more media increasing the potency.
In option B, you dont touch the PH of the reactor, you just increase the drip rate
either of these options puts more calc/alk into the tank.
cdness
2006 - Present
Co2 does affect it... The calcium and alkalinity is based on the media, drip rate, ph in the reactor, and the tank parameters a bit... The ph is driven down by the co2 so the lower the ph, the higher concentration of cal/all in the effluent. Then the contact time plays a pet too.
With all that said, adjust one thing and test in a few days. Then try something else if needed. If you adjust too much you will just cause yourself confusion.
With all that said, adjust one thing and test in a few days. Then try something else if needed. If you adjust too much you will just cause yourself confusion.
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childress5tyler
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Thanks for the reply.
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childress5tyler
Well-Known Member
My effluent keeps clogging up every 3 days and it goes from a out 60 drops a minute to about 35 drops a minute. Any advice on what I can do here?
gonpostal
Community Member
Increasing the drip rate may help stop it from clogging. Did you just fill the reactor with media? I usually have trouble with my valve clogging for a couple of weeks after I fill my reactor, it eventually works itself out. I haven't counted the drops of effluent but it's about 12ml per minute and my bubble count is 22bpm, that keeps the pH in my reactor at 6.58 and my alk is 8.2 and my cal is 430.
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childress5tyler
Well-Known Member
I use a pH controller so it never reaches above 6.8 in the reactor. But the media is not new
gonpostal
Community Member
IMO you should try to balance your bubble count and effluent drip so the pH in your reactor doesn't fluctuate, but stays at steady level. If your pH level keeps fluctuating and your controller keeps opening and closing the solenoid all day, you're going to have a problem if (or rather when) the solenoid fails. I use the controller as a backup, the only time my solenoid switches on and off is when the effluent line clogs. I would try to get the drip and the bubble count balanced so your pH is stable. Start with around 20bpm or so and match your effluent drip so your pH stays somewhere between 6.6 and 6.8 and leave it overnight and test your water the next day. If your alk is too low, slightly increase the bubble count and effluent while keeping the pH within range.
mc-cro
Active Member
I agree with balancing the bubble vs effluent so that the solenoid rarely clicks on or off. If you balance it, if it fails in the open position, its not that big of deal because you wont flood the reactor with co2.
As for the effluent rate, that is a never ending battle if your using a powerhead. For years I used a mj power head, fitted with the air intake used for fresh water tanks. there is some theory about too much back pressure causes the mj to be inconsistant. so the air fitting allows pressure to blow off. whatever, it worked for years with that fitting and a decent needle valve on the output to adjust. In general, the faster the drip rate, the more consistent it will be, less chance of slowing down and clogging.
However, "working" still meant I had to adjust it every couple of day. after a while you do it so much, you can just eye ball it and get close.
I eventually spent some big money and purchased a cole/parmer adjustable peristalic pump. This set up is rock solid, its a medical dosing pump. but thats a few hundred additional dollars.
cheaper peristalic pumps can be used, but most dont last long running 24/7
As for the effluent rate, that is a never ending battle if your using a powerhead. For years I used a mj power head, fitted with the air intake used for fresh water tanks. there is some theory about too much back pressure causes the mj to be inconsistant. so the air fitting allows pressure to blow off. whatever, it worked for years with that fitting and a decent needle valve on the output to adjust. In general, the faster the drip rate, the more consistent it will be, less chance of slowing down and clogging.
However, "working" still meant I had to adjust it every couple of day. after a while you do it so much, you can just eye ball it and get close.
I eventually spent some big money and purchased a cole/parmer adjustable peristalic pump. This set up is rock solid, its a medical dosing pump. but thats a few hundred additional dollars.
cheaper peristalic pumps can be used, but most dont last long running 24/7
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