Calling all experienced reefers

[CryptoNautical]

Now to start don't get me wrong I believe first comes husbandry.

But I've been doing a lot of research recently about Kelvin with reef lights, and I'm curious to see what other reefers use for their reef tanks. I'd like to know if you have found any differences between 10k vs 14k to even 20k. I know that there's a huge argument on which spectrum is better, but I'm more so wanting to know your own experiences with your lights (No matter what your lights are over your tank) and your growth with your coral.

Any input is very appreciated.
(Plus I'd love to see your tank if you have pictures )

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Now to start don't get me wrong I believe first comes husbandry.

But I've been doing a lot of research recently about Kelvin with reef lights, and I'm curious to see what other reefers use for their reef tanks. I'd like to know if you have found any differences between 10k vs 14k to even 20k. I know that there's a huge argument on which spectrum is better, but I'm more so wanting to know your own experiences with your lights (No matter what your lights are over your tank) and your growth with your coral.

Any input is very appreciated.
(Plus I'd love to see your tank if you have pictures )

Here is something 5k lighting oriented I found rather crazy, so I'm going to share.
- $3.50 LED 5k lightbulb from local home improvement store ($7 for 2)
- sump refugium covered in coralline algae while I was out of town 5 weeks

This is my lightbulb link:

An inexpensive Refugium Bulb | Melev's Reef

melevsreef.com

This is the center section of my refugium where nothing but a home improvement store clamp light holds that $3.50 LED 5K bulb - pack of two will set you back $7



All I have is a razorblade scraper as my DT is glass but my sump shown above is acrylic. Crystalline is so hard to get off.

Background:
While I was traveling, BF changed up the refugium design, all the macroalgae escaped, traveled to next sump section, thru return pumps, into DT, back down into filter socks (sump #1 section) and got thrown out. Guess that is why corralline has taken off...

I want pink in my tank... guess moral of this story is be careful what you wish

 

[vetteguy53081]

This will be a broad question of course with answers from those who use a preferred source of light. For me- Its all Orpheks. Speaking of Orphek, take a serious looks at the Orphek OR3 light strips which offer super PASR, volr and growth for fish and coral (sky blue or Blue plus) and use the same bulbs as that of the Orphek Atlantiks.

 

[CanuckReefer]

Now to start don't get me wrong I believe first comes husbandry.

But I've been doing a lot of research recently about Kelvin with reef lights, and I'm curious to see what other reefers use for their reef tanks. I'd like to know if you have found any differences between 10k vs 14k to even 20k. I know that there's a huge argument on which spectrum is better, but I'm more so wanting to know your own experiences with your lights (No matter what your lights are over your tank) and your growth with your coral.

Any input is very appreciated.
(Plus I'd love to see your tank if you have pictures )

I utilize 10K always, I like its colour and it seems to work for me over the years along with actinic. Giessmann T5, along with a Fluval 3.0 LED, my whites a bit heavy on it compared to most. I don't see algae blooms other than last year when I first supplemented the LED, all good now.
In saying that my tank is largely softie, a couple LPS over the years, a couple SPS, recent that are doing ok. My Nem loves the combo of light it is getting.

 

[blasterman]

Kelvin is pretty much an obsolete term with today's LED fixtures because of the ability to manually dial in so many different colors. Different combinations of colors can produce the same quasi Kelvin rating. Back in the days of halides and tubes Kelvin ratings had roughly the same spectral compositions.

5000-6000k LEDs have massive amounts of PAR per watt because all the chlorophyll hot spots are hit. Good old 6500k halides were growth monsters as well.

 

[CanuckReefer]

This will be a broad question of course with answers from those who use a preferred source of light. For me- Its all Orpheks. Speaking of Orphek, take a serious looks at the Orphek OR3 light strips which offer super PASR, volr and growth for fish and coral (sky blue or Blue plus) and use the same bulbs as that of the Orphek Atlantiks.

Yep it is broad... I don't think I've really heard a bad review on the OR3's , seems to be a very popular light at the price point. Non controllable from what I remember but that can be tweaked with some ingenuity, which I'm sure you've done lol. I wanted one to supplement, but couldn't find at the time, stock was real low (November), and retailers were overcharging. Perhaps corrected now...

 

[CryptoNautical]

Thank you all so much for the replies. Great input so far, and a really gorgeous nem CanuckReefer!

 

[CanuckReefer]

Kelvin is pretty much an obsolete term with today's LED fixtures because of the ability to manually dial in so many different colors. Different combinations of colors can produce the same quasi Kelvin rating. Back in the days of halides and tubes Kelvin ratings had roughly the same spectral compositions.

5000-6000k LEDs have massive amounts of PAR per watt because all the chlorophyll hot spots are hit. Good old 6500k halides were growth monsters as well.

Yep, I am still old school , all this blue + , coral +, confuses me. I always went by K rating and simply whether it was white or actinic. Times have changed and I better get with it lol.

 

[BiggestE222]

Kelvin is pretty much an obsolete term with today's LED fixtures because of the ability to manually dial in so many different colors. Different combinations of colors can produce the same quasi Kelvin rating. Back in the days of halides and tubes Kelvin ratings had roughly the same spectral compositions.

5000-6000k LEDs have massive amounts of PAR per watt because all the chlorophyll hot spots are hit. Good old 6500k halides were growth monsters as well.

Exactly what I was thinking. Have not heard the word kelvin used since the time where everyone though halides only or Halides and VHO could allow coral growth.

 

[MaxTremors]

Now to start don't get me wrong I believe first comes husbandry.

But I've been doing a lot of research recently about Kelvin with reef lights, and I'm curious to see what other reefers use for their reef tanks. I'd like to know if you have found any differences between 10k vs 14k to even 20k. I know that there's a huge argument on which spectrum is better, but I'm more so wanting to know your own experiences with your lights (No matter what your lights are over your tank) and your growth with your coral.

Any input is very appreciated.
(Plus I'd love to see your tank if you have pictures )

I’ve never been too concerned about maximizing growth and have always just gone with the color temperature I find most appealing, which is probably closest to 14k, though I don’t mind 20k. 10k is just too white/yellow for me. I have no idea what my current kelvin rating would be (using LEDs), but to my eye, the peak setting I have them at is close to the color temp that I used to get with 14k halides (though obviously they don’t look like halides would look).

 

[CanuckReefer]

Exactly what I was thinking. Have not heard the word kelvin used since the time where everyone though halides only or Halides and VHO could allow coral growth.

Lay off us oldtimers . Funny as well I go into my LFS and ask, I need an actinic in the 420 Nm range, kid looks at me like I've got three heads, and says 'Uh not sure, I have the Blue Plus, Purple Plus, and Azure Blue' ....I THINK I am on the Purple plus last I researched the rating... in store lol.

 

[CryptoNautical]

Lay off us oldtimers . Funny as well I go into my LFS and ask, I need an actinic in the 420 Nm range, kid looks at me like I've got three heads, and says 'Uh not sure, I have the Blue Plus, Purple Plus, and Azure Blue' ....I THINK I am on the Purple plus last I researched the rating... in store lol.

That's hilarious. My dad got me into reefing back in 2014 and the word Kelvin was used quite a bit. I now use LEDs over my reef and you hear a lot about "burning" of corals with the reds and whites. I assume that is due to intensities and hot spots of LEDs. Was there any concerns of burning coral with halides, or actinic lights?

 

[CanuckReefer]

That's hilarious. My dad got me into reefing back in 2014 and the word Kelvin was used quite a bit. I now use LEDs over my reef and you hear a lot about "burning" of corals with the reds and whites. I assume that is due to intensities and hot spots of LEDs. Was there any concerns of burning coral with halides, or actinic lights?

I think halides yes, but honestly not sure...I got into the hobby when T8 HO's were considered the latest and greatest, moved to T5's and now a bit of a blend, mostly T5 with a bit of LED. Never really had tried MH...

 

[Rmckoy]

I’ve never paid much attention to par , or kelvin .
I was always told use t5’s and you can grow anything you want .
That being said .
8 bulbs 54 watts each .
4 of each Coral plus and blue plus

 

[X-37B]

14k de 250 watt MH in my 120.
Orphek blue sky with one blue plus to still hang.
The Orphek bars are awesome, you cant go wrong with them.
I am setting up a 40B with all OR3 bars. They are that good and im a Halide guy.
My 120.

 

[adittam]

This will be a broad question of course with answers from those who use a preferred source of light. For me- Its all Orpheks. Speaking of Orphek, take a serious looks at the Orphek OR3 light strips which offer super PASR, volr and growth for fish and coral (sky blue or Blue plus) and use the same bulbs as that of the Orphek Atlantiks.

14k de 250 watt MH in my 120.
Orphek blue sky with one blue plus to still hang.
The Orphek bars are awesome, you cant go wrong with them.
I am setting up a 40B with all OR3 bars. They are that good and im a Halide guy.
My 120.

How do you go about setting up the tank with only OR3 bars? Do you just have them on a simple timer and don't worry about dimming? How do you dial in the intensity?

 

[vetteguy53081]

How do you go about setting up the tank with only OR3 bars? Do you just have them on a simple timer and don't worry about dimming? How do you dial in the intensity?

Yes- timer. The colors are perfect

 

[X-37B]

How do you go about setting up the tank with only OR3 bars? Do you just have them on a simple timer and don't worry about dimming? How do you dial in the intensity?

Mine are on timers. You do not need the ramp up and down effect some other Leds provide.
To many people think they need to change the setting on Leds to often. This is where many have issues, imo.

 

[adittam]

Yes- timer. The colors are perfect

Mine are on timers. You do not need the ramp up and down effect some other Leds provide.
To many people think they need to change the setting on Leds to often. This is where many have issues, imo.

My concerns isn't about ramping up and down, I know those are just for show, not necessary. My concern is that they would be too intense for my 16" tall lagoon tank.

 

[X-37B]

My concerns isn't about ramping up and down, I know those are just for show, not necessary. My concern is that they would be too intense for my 16" tall lagoon tank.

They will be fine, imo.
I run a 250 watt 14k MH on my 36x24x12 frag system.
You can just adjust the height for your system.