Calling all T5/LED hybrid owners for help!!
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madweazl
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I much prefer a whiter look to the tank; the Kessils always top out at 60-65% color and intensity is adjusted as necessary. If colors arent coming out in the acroporas as expected, intensity is increased. With that said, if colors are appropriate for the species, I leave intensity where it's at and if not, I'll increase it to meet that demand. At the time being, the intensity is lower than "normal" while I tried to figure out what the problem is/was. Most of the corals remained colored up as expected but a couple did loose some color; the Rainbow Delight was the most notable followed by the RR Wolverine (more greenish than yellow right now). Most of the others were pretty close to the norm but could use a bit more light. Better to error on the side of caution with less light when stressed vs the opposite.
Fritzhamer
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I’ve run just about every led and all the ati fixtures. Hands down my favorite (and current) light is the ATI hybrid power module. I too have a four foot 90 gallon. I run the 36” and it’s as close to MH+T5 you’ll find in an led hybrid.
Fritzhamer
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Lol, understandably but I’ve been reefing since the vita-light, 50/50 bulbs and VHO actinics.
I’ve run 150s, 175s, 250s and 400s. Never ran the 1,000 watt bulbs but I’ve done the old school ice caps, magnetic ballasts, ARO, dimmable coralvue and the MH/LED sunpods. Nothing and I mean nothing compares to metal halide for natural look but the power module is as close as I’ve seen.
The shimmer is good, it’s got MH shape and placement in the fixture. The T5s cover the shading issues that I’ve had with led alone.
I’ve run 150s, 175s, 250s and 400s. Never ran the 1,000 watt bulbs but I’ve done the old school ice caps, magnetic ballasts, ARO, dimmable coralvue and the MH/LED sunpods. Nothing and I mean nothing compares to metal halide for natural look but the power module is as close as I’ve seen.
The shimmer is good, it’s got MH shape and placement in the fixture. The T5s cover the shading issues that I’ve had with led alone.
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Cari
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How high above tank or waterline are your lights? I ran a 36" ATI Dimmable T5 with (2) Reef Brite Techs (which obviously wasn't enough) and I had shadowing on both ends of the tank. It's very possible I didn't have the fixture high enough (it was about 11" above water line), although the weak LED's shimmer was completely drowned out, the minute the ATI T5's came on. Obviously, it would be much different with LED within the fixture, and with a 36", that extra room on the ends would allow for additional air circulation, which would be nice.
I'm very intrigued by your comment regarding the MH +T5 look, as that is what I'm striving to get. Back in the day, the norm was to run (2) 250 watt w/ (2) T5 Actinic; ( today there are tons of options with the T5 bulbs). Loved the look, I would agree that it is the most natural look. But needed to get away from the heat of those MH.
I have entertained the ATI Powermodule, just not the 36"...would like to hear more.
Fritzhamer
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You really need six inches of clearance from the end of their fixtures (hot side). I always go shorter on T5 fixtures. I hate cleaning my glass and I don’t grow corals on my glass. I like hardscape more towards the center-ish parts of the tank with more of an open water feel getting near the side glass. If it gets a bit darker near the sides I feel it adds a sense of depth. Like deep water is out there and it goes on forever. If the side glass is brightly illuminated it’s just a glass box.
My theory was backed up in the BRS video on T5 par output where they found that the highest par, with a T5 fixture, is at the sides, front and back. They theorized that all the light reflecting off the glass was the cause of the higher par numbers. This seemed true as black painted glass has lower par, but next to clear glass is higher than the sand a few inches away from the glass.
Keeping that in mind a 36” fixture should be able to easily illuminate about 44” in length which is perfect for me as I don’t keep anything in those last two inches on either side. When I did run four foot bulbs on four foot tanks I had to clean the side glass constantly and it killed the look for me.
As for the look, every time I snorkel I like LEDs less and less. The color and controllability is great but the shimmer doesn’t look anything remotely resembling natural. The power module isn’t immune to this but it really looks like they were trying to replicate two 250s with four T5s on this fixture. It doesn’t give you the wide bands that you get with halide, or the sun but it’s well balanced with the T5s. There’s also plenty of power to spare if you’re more likely to run two 400s on a four foot tank.
I run the T5s for six hours a day at max to prevent any shadowing. The led banks max at 40% currently but I’ll be bumping them up to 50% when I get back from vacation. Color tuning is super easy and intuitive via their app. You can also use their preprogrammed color schemes based on their popular bulb spectrums and fine tune from there.
My theory was backed up in the BRS video on T5 par output where they found that the highest par, with a T5 fixture, is at the sides, front and back. They theorized that all the light reflecting off the glass was the cause of the higher par numbers. This seemed true as black painted glass has lower par, but next to clear glass is higher than the sand a few inches away from the glass.
Keeping that in mind a 36” fixture should be able to easily illuminate about 44” in length which is perfect for me as I don’t keep anything in those last two inches on either side. When I did run four foot bulbs on four foot tanks I had to clean the side glass constantly and it killed the look for me.
As for the look, every time I snorkel I like LEDs less and less. The color and controllability is great but the shimmer doesn’t look anything remotely resembling natural. The power module isn’t immune to this but it really looks like they were trying to replicate two 250s with four T5s on this fixture. It doesn’t give you the wide bands that you get with halide, or the sun but it’s well balanced with the T5s. There’s also plenty of power to spare if you’re more likely to run two 400s on a four foot tank.
I run the T5s for six hours a day at max to prevent any shadowing. The led banks max at 40% currently but I’ll be bumping them up to 50% when I get back from vacation. Color tuning is super easy and intuitive via their app. You can also use their preprogrammed color schemes based on their popular bulb spectrums and fine tune from there.
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Cari
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hard to tell in pics. I definitely will be going back to t5’s, just have to incorporate the shimmer.The first pic is with ati t5’s, second is Kessil led only. Most of mushrooms are gone/much smaller. Anemones are at the top, green star polyps look dull. The only one that has really taken off is the gorgonian (small in center) to large left rear side. I literally had to move it because it went crazy. Polyps haven’t done well either. These photos are 4 months apart and the first one was taken during my busy time at work, so it’s the most neglected time of year.
Maybe I should just go back to ATI, seems like I had a better tank with them...
Fritzhamer
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Here’s a shot of my tank now, again I hate cleaning the glass and it looks like it. The light is about six inches off the tank. LEDs at 40% the T5s are at max.
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Cari
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Thanks for all the help, pics & videos!
Does anyone know on the Aquatic Life fixture: can the wiring be modified to have 1 to 1 bulbs front and back, rather than 2 bulbs together in front and 2 together in back? If that makes sense.....I’d like the 2 outside bulbs together and then the 2 inside bulbs together.
Does anyone know on the Aquatic Life fixture: can the wiring be modified to have 1 to 1 bulbs front and back, rather than 2 bulbs together in front and 2 together in back? If that makes sense.....I’d like the 2 outside bulbs together and then the 2 inside bulbs together.
