Can hippo get ich for not having light on?

frank31083

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Ok guys so my question is "can a blue tang get so stressed for having the lights off all day that it gets ICH"? I just got home and noticed my timer never went on. I turned on the lights to see if the anemones and fishes were ok but I see that my tang is covered in white spots. Will my tang beat it ? Or should I start preparing the QT?[emoji30]
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412914538.618331.jpg
 
No. Lights are not the issue with ich. In fact, the lights being off would be more relaxing and less stressful. If the lights were on for days, that would be a different story. The fish has had ich far longer than one day. Do yourself a favor and read up on what ich is, the life cycle, and how it can be treated. The best thing to do henceforth is quarantine.
 
Not likely, no. Leaving the lights out is usually a good thing for them when acclimating.
With the looks of that fish, I'd get the QT up quickly.
 
Lights won't do it, have you added anything new recently? Anything at all??
 
I added an anemone last week but I took it out the bag. I didn't think invertebrates carry ich?
 
Things can carry the eggs. But, I would say that your Hippo already had it, and you stressed her out by placing the Anemone.
 
Unless you plan on QTing EVERY fish and leaving the tank fallow, I suggest just leave her in the tank and feed her a lot with vitamins (e.g., Selcon, garlic, and vitachem) and keep the the water super clean (more water changes and heaving skimming). She probably had a few white spots you didn't notice before but she was able to fight it off. Whatever you decide, just don't panic. (Speaking from experience when my blue tang got ich all of a sudden.)
 
She already looks pretty bad. I'd QT and treat. Unfortunately, when you put her back she will probably get it again unless you qt them all for 30 days to let the ich die off in the main tank.

I'm currently using Kordon Rid-Ich Plus for the same problem, and it is apparently working (much safer for tangs than copper), but it can't be used in the main reef. And be careful - the stuff stains like you wouldn't believe.
 
She already looks pretty bad. I'd QT and treat. Unfortunately, when you put her back she will probably get it again unless you qt them all for 30 days to let the ich die off in the main tank.

I'm currently using Kordon Rid-Ich Plus for the same problem, and it is apparently working (much safer for tangs than copper), but it can't be used in the main reef. And be careful - the stuff stains like you wouldn't believe.

30 days? More like 8-10 weeks fallowing the DT.
 
Agreed! QT is the best way to treat but will have problems with repeat infections if the whole tank is not treated. If you have just a fowler then no problem just treat the tank. But if you have coral and invertebrates then most treatments are bad and the ones that claim they are reef safe are still highly questionable on reef safeness. I wouldn't ad that to my tank. QT and a fallow tank for 10 weeks is best method.
 
If you keep the fish healthy, they'll fight it off themselves. There is the hyposalinity solution too ( i think one of the least stress fix).
 
Thanks guys, I'll give it a week or so to see if the tang gets better if not than I will have the QT ready to start hyposalinity.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412995033.800103.jpg
This was the tang the day before, that's why I freaked out the next day to see so much white spots on the fish.
 
if your QT isnt cycled and have a load on it- I wouldnt recommend it...
maybe test your perameters, make sure the temp is stable, DKH is high enough ect...
 
I will be using the water from my DT and just monitor the parameters just incase I need to fix something.
 
Some varities have been shown to take 72 days to complete the life cycle.....hence the 10 weeks.
 
Some varities have been shown to take 72 days to complete the life cycle.....hence the 10 weeks.
Correct. Many strains life cycle is 28-35 days but why chance it only to re infected if you have stain that goes longer? Certainly worth it! 10 weeks
 

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