Can I employ multiple methods of Nitrate removal?

I was looking at the Seapora reactors last night. It looks like they are very similar, but the nitrate reactors have the pump on the bottom were the Aquamaxx has the pump on the top. Not sure if that makes a difference.

So you are saying, all you have to do is replace the bioballs with sulfur? It's that simple? On the marine depot site, it shows 2 kinds of media. What is the other stuff?

And yes, I know I have to research it more.
 
I was looking at the Seapora reactors last night. It looks like they are very similar, but the nitrate reactors have the pump on the bottom were the Aquamaxx has the pump on the top. Not sure if that makes a difference.

So you are saying, all you have to do is replace the bioballs with sulfur? It's that simple? On the marine depot site, it shows 2 kinds of media. What is the other stuff?

And yes, I know I have to research it more.

If anything, I prefer the Seapora design. It's compact. Had I waited a day to look a little more, I would have bought the large reactor and done what I told you: removed the balls and used sulfur. You have to add crushed coral/Ca reactor media to the top to buffer the ph that comes out. Is that what you mean?
 
If anything, I prefer the Seapora design. It's compact. Had I waited a day to look a little more, I would have bought the large reactor and done what I told you: removed the balls and used sulfur. You have to add crushed coral/Ca reactor media to the top to buffer the ph that comes out. Is that what you mean?
Oh, that's what it is. Will this also add calcium/alk? It's not a reef, so it isn't too important.

So just put in the sulfur on the bottom and calcium carbonate on top (the aquamaxx includes a second media plate to separate them, but maybe it isn't necessary.

Does it smell like sulfur?

I'm looking at the larger one anyway.
 
Oh, that's what it is. Will this also add calcium/alk? It's not a reef, so it isn't too important.

So just put in the sulfur on the bottom and calcium carbonate on top (the aquamaxx includes a second media plate to separate them, but maybe it isn't necessary.

Does it smell like sulfur?

I'm looking at the larger one anyway.

Mine hasn't yet. The crushed coral is for ph buffering. It only smells like sulfur if you
1) forget to open the effluent if you close it or not enough outflow iirc.
2) not enough NO3 for the bacteria to consume so it consumes the sulfur.

I so would have gotten the larger one. Now I'm stuck with a smaller unit from marinedepot that cost more, just because it's aquamaxx. Remember, JNS/Seapora/aquamaxx are all the same. The Seapora one I suppose you could put in sump if you wanted
 
Mine hasn't yet. The crushed coral is for ph buffering. It only smells like sulfur if you
1) forget to open the effluent if you close it or not enough outflow iirc.
2) not enough NO3 for the bacteria to consume so it consumes the sulfur.

I so would have gotten the larger one. Now I'm stuck with a smaller unit from marinedepot that cost more, just because it's aquamaxx. Remember, JNS/Seapora/aquamaxx are all the same. The Seapora one I suppose you could put in sump if you wanted
No room in the sump, so it would go next to it. I also see I need a 40ml/m pump, those are expensive also.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/fx-s...4cXLi9R02ByNB-uWzyEW43r9IcM6zc0UaArN1EALw_wcB
 
I t'ed off from my line o my Ca Rx. Forgot to mention I don't think you need that separation plate. I've seen set ups with both media mixed evenly
I don't have a calcium reactor, I do have other reactors but I think I would have a hard time accurately adjusting flow that low with a ball valve.
 
I'm still going to give my other methods a while to work, but after researching and seeing how well these supposedly work, I am very intrigued.
 
I don't have a calcium reactor, I do have other reactors but I think I would have a hard time accurately adjusting flow that low with a ball valve.

I used a John guest valve to control flow into the reactor, its open full bore but what I did was put a two little fishies micro ball valve at the end of the effluent output. As long as you can control the output I think you're ok.
 
I used a John guest valve to control flow into the reactor, its open full bore but what I did was put a two little fishies micro ball valve at the end of the effluent output. As long as you can control the output I think you're ok.
Thanks for all the info! I appreciate it. It looks like 1/4" push fittings.
 
If anything, I prefer the Seapora design. It's compact. Had I waited a day to look a little more, I would have bought the large reactor and done what I told you: removed the balls and used sulfur. You have to add crushed coral/Ca reactor media to the top to buffer the ph that comes out. Is that what you mean?
So the Seapora does have a nice gate type valve on the inlet. If I tee off my other reactor to a 1/4" I should be able to adjust the flow down to the 3 drops/second to grow the bacteria. I can also put the valve on the effluent to have further control.

I was looking at peristaltic pumps, but they are crazy expensive and can't be dialed back because they seal off. I'd rather use a small flow and use the gate valve to adjust the flow through the reactor.

Here is my question. The reactor would be external. The Sicce pump looks pretty serious, so if I am feeding it a few ML a second, won't it run dry or does it just recirculate? Won't it heat up or cavitate without the water flow?
 
Careful with everything you read for hobby; a lot of what you stated really depends on the fish adaptivity to change in water confitions. Also, maybe I missed it, but do you have RODI system, if not and you add tap water at any point you will just be going in circles.
 
I do run a heavily stocked Reef and not just a fowlr, but I used Vodka to adjust my Phosphate and Nitrate levels. I have lots of Maxspects ceramic media (6 kg balls and 8 blocks) in my sump for the resulting bacteria to latch onto.

Nitrate from 130 to 30 in less than a week.
Phosphate had increased to 4, when I started, but can’t be detected now.
 
So the Seapora does have a nice gate type valve on the inlet. If I tee off my other reactor to a 1/4" I should be able to adjust the flow down to the 3 drops/second to grow the bacteria. I can also put the valve on the effluent to have further control.

I was looking at peristaltic pumps, but they are crazy expensive and can't be dialed back because they seal off. I'd rather use a small flow and use the gate valve to adjust the flow through the reactor.

Here is my question. The reactor would be external. The Sicce pump looks pretty serious, so if I am feeding it a few ML a second, won't it run dry or does it just recirculate? Won't it heat up or cavitate without the water flow?

It’s a recirc pump. You’re good
 
I do run a heavily stocked Reef and not just a fowlr, but I used Vodka to adjust my Phosphate and Nitrate levels. I have lots of Maxspects ceramic media (6 kg balls and 8 blocks) in my sump for the resulting bacteria to latch onto.

Nitrate from 130 to 30 in less than a week.
Phosphate had increased to 4, when I started, but can’t be detected now.

Less than a week, really? .....
 
Careful with everything you read for hobby; a lot of what you stated really depends on the fish adaptivity to change in water confitions. Also, maybe I missed it, but do you have RODI system, if not and you add tap water at any point you will just be going in circles.
Yes, I use RODI.

I don't understand your post. Adapted to water conditions in what way?
 
There is a new range of products to the USA called Quantum and their nitrate remover is for nitrate removal only and then they do a separate phosphate remover and they both are brilliant. Their head chemist spends hours over each day answering questions on Facebook check them out they have a group called The Q. Their products arrived in the UK and they took us by storm that much the shipping container sold out within days and another had to quickly put together and shipped over to us.
I used their nitrate remover HR to take my nitrates down from off the scale to 15 within a fortnight and then use their nitrate remover LR to almost completely remove my nitrates they are about 0.2ppm and holding there.
 
I would suggest you look into a cheato reactor, cheato is a very effective ,economical solution.
 
I am going to try to lower the nitrates in my 210 fowler. They are probably around 100. (PO4 is 3+) I can't get a definitive answer if that is harmful or not, but I don't think that long term it will be good for the fish.

So, I don't have the means for a fuge, but I have a couple reactors. So what I am doing it dosing NOPOX (I have a big Reef Octopus Diablo XS 200), running biopellets in a BRS reactor, and filled up a TLS Phosban 550 with Seachem Matrix running about 38 gallons an hour (50 gallons or less for Denitrifying effect).

Is this setup going to be ok? As the nitrates come down, I'll decrease the NOPOX (I bought a 5L jug a while back and I'll make my own after it's gone) dose, but the biopellets and Matrix should be self regulating.

I see little reason to use biopellets and NOPOX together. They work the same way and liquids like NOPOX are much easier to adjust doses and timing, and I'd use one of them (I prefer ordinary vinegar).

It is fine to use other methods simultaneously, like macroalgae, skimming, etc.
 
I see little reason to use biopellets and NOPOX together. They work the same way and liquids like NOPOX are much easier to adjust doses and timing, and I'd use one of them (I prefer ordinary vinegar).

It is fine to use other methods simultaneously, like macroalgae, skimming, etc.
Once I use up the NOPOX, I was going to make the NOPOX (500ml vinegar, 375 Vodka, 125 RODI). Is this any more effective than vinegar?
 

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