Can I use this silicone for sump baffles?

[cracker]

I have found that if You rough up the edges of acrylic where the silicone will be with sand paper, it sticks very well. Iv'e done this many times.

 

[Fin]

I stopped using GE years ago, but if this is "new" packaging for GE-1 (that I didn't recognize) then yes, I agree that you can use it. I used it myself for years, until I started cutting apart old projects built with the GE and projects built with the Momentive RTV adhesive. The Momentive is noticeably stronger and more difficult to remove. So, I use that now. But this will work fine for baffles, if allowed to cure completely, as has already been stated. Sorry about that.

 

[Sleepydoc]

I wanted to get an opinion that isn't from 2012 and earlier

Well, the silicone hasn't changed since 2012, so the answer shouldn't either!

Most acteoxy cure silicones such as GE Silicone I have some sort of aquarium disclaimer on them. Silicone I has been used for years without issues. That said, I totally agree that the momentive RTV sealants are superior.

Acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid as part of their curing process. Neutral cure silicones such as GE Silicone II release ammonia and/or alcohols which are obviously more toxic to reef inhabitants. You can use neutral cure silicones, the key is to let it cure completely. The curing times listed are for a ⅛" bead, significantly smaller than the layers we typically put down. As a result, the cure times are much longer. Most people recommend waiting 1-2 weeks for full cure before using a tank.

re mildewcides, I have yet to see any definitive proof that 'kitchen and bath' silicones actually include mildewcides as opposed to referring the the natural mildew resistance of silicones. Every tube and MSDS I've read simply says 'mildew resistant'

 

[ReefNoobie88]

I bought the black silicone for aquariums off amazon for my sump and cosmetic reseal. I believe it’s the momentive because that stuff absolutely refuses to let go of acrylic no matter what I do. Welllll worth the extra money for piece of mind. Also someone mentioned to leave a larger gap, this is correct for a proper bead. I cut them a 1/4” shorter than I need so it gives me a 1/8” gap on either side, plus the cosmetic seam for added durability. Just my .02

 

[Coralfuture]

Any comments on this little tid bit ?

I have used that silicone in my sumps.....no issues here happy sps reefer

 

[cilyjr]

Well, the silicone hasn't changed since 2012, so the answer shouldn't either!

Most acteoxy cure silicones such as GE Silicone I have some sort of aquarium disclaimer on them. Silicone I has been used for years without issues. That said, I totally agree that the momentive RTV sealants are superior.

Acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid as part of their curing process. Neutral cure silicones such as GE Silicone II release ammonia and/or alcohols which are obviously more toxic to reef inhabitants. You can use neutral cure silicones, the key is to let it cure completely. The curing times listed are for a ⅛" bead, significantly smaller than the layers we typically put down. As a result, the cure times are much longer. Most people recommend waiting 1-2 weeks for full cure before using a tank.

Absolutely 100% agree

re mildewcides, I have yet to see any definitive proof that 'kitchen and bath' silicones actually include mildewcides as opposed to referring the the natural mildew resistance of silicones. Every tube and MSDS I've read simply says 'mildew resistant'

I 100% agree as well. And I have read many SDS sheets and spent time researching the chemicals in both neutral and acetoxy cure silicones. I have yet to find a 100% silicone (this is important) that's not right around 90% silanes (most are PDMS) and the last 10% ish being petroleum distilates.

side note. Momentive makes all GE silicone products but there is a huge difference in strength between silicone sealants (what GE is repackaging as silicone 1 and 2) and adhesive sealants (packaged as rtv 100 series.)

 

[Shefilbel7]

I have successfully used GE Silicone I for a number of projects,
and more recently, for plastic (acrylic) to glass applications, a special GE Silicone for plastics (found in HD in the Acrylic sheet department)

The critical thing with any Silicone is to let it cure completely (2 - 3 days) before exposing to water. Curing Silicone give off ammonia.

Have you used this type in your sump?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Have you used this type in your sump?

Yes, in my sump and tank....and a number of other sumps I've built. Regardless of the silicone used, allow it to cure.....minimum for me would be three days, but preferred is a week....or longer.

And, I'm making another sump in a couple weeks and will be using this stuff.

 

[Erica-Renee]

Any comments on this little tid bit ?

This is because people do not understand Silicone. Its only safe until its 100% Cured This does not mean dry to touch. For the size bead you need at room temp and neutral humidity 48 ours i think is a good min point to be sure ..

 

[Shefilbel7]

Yes, in my sump and tank....and a number of other sumps I've built. Regardless of the silicone used, allow it to cure.....minimum for me would be three days, but preferred is a week....or longer.

And, I'm making another sump in a couple weeks and will be using this stuff.

Awesome thanks.

 

[Bigtrout]

I did alot of research and used the GE 1, its fine as long as you let it cure fully as in 1 week plus. That being said the momentive is stronger for full tank build, but for baffles GE 1 is good.
Silicone cures on contact with moisture in the air, from outside to inside... lay a few beads on a piece of cardboard when u do your sump. Same thickness as you did in your baffles. When you think its cured...cut one of the test beads, if its not fully cured or smells like vinegar...wait a few more days.