Can poor lighting cause STN?

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I am somewhat new, in that I've only been running a tank for 10 months. I purchased the Loop system by Current USA. The lights are IC Pro LEDs.

I've never been able to keep any SPS from STN after a few weeks, despite low Nitrates, stable Alk and other params. I'm even running Zeovit now, for about 5 months now. But still STN any SPS i introduce.

So, could my lighting be the problem?
 
I have the same lighting, I dont think they are strong enough to support sps. I had to add a couple of T5 bulbs in order to grow sps.
 
Hello,

I currently run the current usa lights have never had an issue growing sps. Granted I do have the ones a step up from yours but the loop pros will grow sps. You do have to place them high up though. They also require lots of flow which I use the current loop wave makers and return pumps in my 240.

Sps are sensitive especially wild grown or clipped sps corals. For an example my salinity changed and I lost three sps within 8 hours. If you have stn slow tissue loss to save it the parameters need to be one stable and not much swing st all. If your alk dips from 8 to 6 yes that can cause it etc. I still have two corals trying to pull through that I will have to clip to save. It happens all the time sadly and is frustrating, to say the least. Which sps corals are you using or trying?

Which setting is your lights set on, I have found setting three and four (well on mine are the best). I absolutely love current usa but I’m also honest. Current has told me in the past the ic loop pros even the duals will grow sps but you have to place it fairly high up. The lights should be sitting on top of the tank, so maybe 2 inches from the water. Depending on your size of tank, I wouldn’t put these on anything larger than a 125, even then they may not reach the depth, but for lps and softies they should do fine. So sps let’s say to mak this easier atm, your using a 125 with the pro system so dual lights. With sps i would not go lower than 8 inches from the water surface with sps. The higher the better because of the 90 degree lens. If you only have one light Urgh I wouldn’t go past six inches probably.

However, I doubt that this is a light problem, because if it was you may have problems with other coral. An example is I added a third orbit marine pro (the non ic loop version and 60 degree lens to my tank to up the power) that was a huge oops. These lights are beasts and are extremely powerful, in which I was cooking my lps wells, tracs, acans etc. the sps loved it and did just fine.

What is your flow like, and what are your parameters and type of fish do you have? Have you coral dipped the corals before you put them in your tank? The sps are they all from the same source and how did they look when you bought them?

Cheers
Sarah
 
I can say that poor lighting definitely can cause stn. For three years now, I thought my lights were too strong so I had them turned down. All of my sps would slowly wither away and then stn. I recently got a par meter in my tank and was shocked to see 30-80 par where I thought I had 150-250par. Now all of my frags are encrusting and keeping their color.
 
Keep in mind , stn is sudden. It was a viral infection in acropora.
Dying and losing skin can be a number of issues.
I know , I’ve killed a few. :confused:

If it’s all acros or all sps that die in tank, it’s likely systemic. Or possibly to little light. (They’ll Brown and then possibly stn). Too much or too long , they usually bleach and then possibly stn.

What sps are we talking about , acros?
Many do say some tank are “too young@ for acros. There are reasons for this.

That said , current is a good spectrum over all. But you do need to set the correct intensity and have an idea of par.
Any coral can or will die with incorrect lighting intensity. Also the amount of time the light is on.

100 par on most acros is a no no.
Some acros are actually lower light as well. As If acros weren’t hard enough to keep.
 
What is your flow like, and what are your parameters and type of fish do you have? Have you coral dipped the corals before you put them in your tank? The sps are they all from the same source and how did they look when you bought them?

Cheers
Sarah

Thanks for the replies. I am running the Current USA Loop System, with 2 Medium Pumps pushing back and forth to gyre, and a large pump pushing flow across the center of the tank. I can't tell you much more than that about flow. All I can say is the polyps on the SPS would swish back and forth, and usually extended quite a bit. They seemed to like the flow. And so all seems to go well for the first 2 or 3 weeks. But the STN always sets in. It's just a matter of time.

I dip all of my corals. Some of the SPS were from my LFS, while others have been from World Wide Corals. I usually have only 1 SPS at a time; sometimes 2. But the point is that this has been going on for a long time. I have tried 3 different Bird's Next corals and several Acros. I favor the Bird's Nest because they are cheaper and it's said that they are more hardy. But I don't know about that.

The corals all look great when I get them. The polyps extend and I set the frags on a frag shelf, which is attached to the glass with magnets. That way I can position the frag where it's polyps extend the most while getting a nice amount of flow (swaying polyps back and forth).

As for my lights, I have no idea what the PAR is. I'm running the Orbit Marine IC Pro, which comes with 2 light strips. https://www.marinedepot.com/Current...quariums-Current_USA-CU04226-FILTFILD-vi.html

Alk swings have been almost none, because I don't have enough corals to consume very much. The SPS would be the most dominant user, I would think. Every time I test it remains stable at around 8.2.

Magnesium 1360
Alkalinity 8.2
Calcium 410
Nitrates 6.0
Phosphates .04
Salinity
pH 8.2

Thanks for the replies for far. It's a big help. :)
 
Hello,

I’m curious if all of your acros are grown aka farmed in the ocean and or in tanks. I have recently noticed that any acro from my lfs has sadly died on me, in the last month or two.
But none of the farmed acros have shown signs of stress. It’s very very odd. I do know if you run a mixed tank some lps or softies aka toadstool leathers can release toxins and kill acros.

The current icp loop lights are good lights. Now with that said I need to be honest. The newer ic loop lights are nothing close to power wise as the prior version of the 60 degree lens orbit marine pros. Those lights are insanely powerful and very focused. The ic loop lights have a 90 degree and quite a bit lower power.

I’m speaking directly with current and their lights (axiously awaiting to beta test the new super high powered orbit pro). They have told me these lights are okay with sps. If you grow sps they need to be placed very high in the tank. Will they grow sps yes, but depending what your growing meh is up for debate.

Now as I’m finding out more on this acros have a high med and low light and flow ranges. As @saltyfilmfolks as spoken to me about, it’s hard enough to grow sps, now it’s even harder in reality. For some reason suddenly I do Great with any level sps as long as it has been tanked raised. Anything grown farmed in the ocean well I was doing amazing I had three for almost five years and one day gone.

Also keep your tank very simple, meannng I don’t dose lots of things. If you do it really makes it harder to figure out what when wrong. Now if you use the ic loop remote I don’t know the light part super well, the wave maker part I know very well. Also default button is the best botton on there just hold for three seconds or a few longer and everything is back to factory. I would try the 12 hour photo period on these and then the blues to 100. Now on my lights which are much stronger orbits, my brights are at 33% and I have a Maximus clam which is a light monster 5-6 inches off the sand bed in a 34 inch tall 240 gallon tank. That simple means that clam is getting blasted. Your lights I’m not even certain would grow a clam unless it was a few inches below the water.

I would also advise not putting anything in until your tank stabilizes. Another prime example also @saltyfilmfolks (sorry forgot to mention in my message to you) I have a purple bonsai acro fhagvwas from my local fish store oldest acro I have and it has stared slow tissue loss, trying to see where I can frag it. But it huge huge huge, now I have a farmed tank raised same coral purple bonsai acro same level just mid tank. Doing just awesome growing like a weed. Now I have no idea why, nor the mind at the moment to figure it out. But acros are very sensitive and any change at all Can harm them. Every one is different colony and literally a different living animal.

I suggest you really do some research on this, look at the corals doing well, find out why they are. Common thing is lps and softies like dirtier water. Well not in my tank they hate it. When I was dumb enough to raise my nitrates to 15-20 my sps loved it and my acans, wells and tracs were bloody mad at me until I changed it back and removed my third orbit light. (Was only on for three weeks of that bad idea way way to much light).

I suggest you proceed with extreme caution and make one change if any one at a time. I was naive and stupid and changed my light, well added a third one of the same light, increase my nitrates (super dumb on my behalf). Yet I want to make very clear this does and has worked for others. The tank owner who convinced me to do this has an amazing 90 gallon sps dominat tank. They grow like weeds, his nitrates have been between 25-40 ppm and runs the current light that I have. Did it work for me nope, not at all.

Cheers
Sarah
 
I’d check the par on those lights. 72w isn’t a lot, spread out like that light has them. My hydra26hd is 90w over two pucks. I had to crank up the blues to the absolute max and lower the light to 9in over my water to get my par up. This is over a 34g tank too.

My acros are now encrusting their bases and extends polyps nicely. It was my lighting that caused all of my problems.
 
serveimage


Sarah is using 2 of the Orbit Marine Pros. She has twice what is listed here. One of her lights is more powerful than both of yours. She has very nice lights but they are discontinued.
 
Intensity at the frag rack may be quite low, exacerbating your potential issue. Until you know what your lights are doing, it's impossible to say definitively but I suspect you'd have better luck if the corals were directly under the lights vs a frag rack.
 
I’m just curious about a couple things.
1. I might have missed it, but what size tank are you running?
2. When you say STN, is it from the base or tips?
3. What kind of bio load do you have by way of fish?
 
No one has done much research on the issue of adding different species from different oceans and entirely different regions of the same ocean. It’s also curious to see how generational fragging vs sexual reproduction creates different resistant species
 
Howdy. Those parameters look OK. I'll assume SG is steady 1.025 and temp is steady at say 79ish. Correct?

Questions:
1) Tank size?
2) How old is your system?
3) So the frags survive your dip and look OK after. Then, over the next few weeks, what happens next? Polyps stop extending? Color changes to...brown? White? No change?
4) STN starts at bottom? Top? So you can see the tissue peeling away... what color is that tissue?
5) What are you dipping with? Bayer?

If you can answer these clearly, I think plenty on this thread can get you lined up to make another go at this.
 
From what I've seen over the years with my tanks is yes poor lighting would lead to the acro turning brown then turned to stn. Mine started from the base and went up.
 
If a par meter shows your lights are sufficiently strong, it’s time for an ICP test which will show a rusty magnet or that your test kits are off.
 
I’m just curious about a couple things.
1. I might have missed it, but what size tank are you running?
2. When you say STN, is it from the base or tips?
3. What kind of bio load do you have by way of fish?

Im running a 100 gallon, 5 ft long and 20 in deep. I have been putting the frags on a rack, about 9 inches below the surface. Lights are 9 inches above the surface.

The STN always begins at the base of the coral.

As for fish, i have 15 small fish like damsels and chromis.

Thanks for the responses.
 

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