Reefpharmer
Active Member
What type of epoxy do you recommend ? I’m interested in having some around just in case (a link would be greatly appreciated)
Can this cause STN?
- Thread starter ryshark
- Start date
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What type of epoxy do you recommend ? I’m interested in having some around just in case (a link would be greatly appreciated)
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
They are indeed stereotypical symptoms and my assertion remains that they are potentially recoverable. All input is needed to find out what might be happening in the OP's tank and finding possible solutions. We are all in this together, to help one another.
mta_morrow
Of course I have room for 1 more fish!
Well hello there erky! mtamorrow from Ohio Reef.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
You can use any two-part, from 5 min to standard two-part to epoxy putty sticks. Just make certain that the equipment is clean and dry before placing epoxy and the epoxy is fully cured prior to installing in tank. My preferred product for this repair would be the kneadable epoxy sticks. Just be aware that it can pop out over time. The liquid epoxy would likely last longer however, it might seep down into the shaft and impede impeller operation. https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-HoldFast-Aquarium-HF-1/dp/B001JSXBYO
Silicone is another option...
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madweazl
2500 Club Member
Both of my MP40s have rust on the shafts (along with almost countless others) and it hasn't cause any issues; while you certainly cant eliminate that as a potential issue, it is highly unlikely. I wouldnt advise doing anything in regard to a "fix," if you believe it an issue, stick with your gut and contact Ecotech (they're going to tell you it isnt a problem like they have the rest of us).
You are absolutely correct. If the coral is still alive you can almost certainly recover the coral. RTN is different, I have never been able to save one. That is probably just a failing on my part.
@OP
Have you considered doing an ICP test? That will probably give you the best indication of metal contaminates in your tank.
OP
OP
ryshark
5000 Club Member
On Friday I put a ring of glue around the one frag that was STNing from the base up and it seemed to have stopped it. Some of my other acros are doing just fine, but I will do an ICP test, it would be cool to see the results.
Are you shaking the crap out of bottle 2 for at least 30seconds before using it? I think that step gets taken for granted sometimes but it makes a difference in your results..
OP
OP
ryshark
5000 Club Member
This is the one that is really weird. It was a deep blue RRUSA Angry Bird, now it looks like a skeleton with polyp extension. I've successfully kept sps for years but this is the first I remember seeing what looks like a dead acro with polyp extension.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
Hmmm. At least there is hope. The polyps still contain zooxanthellae.
markalot
Comic Relief
Howdy,
I wanted to chime in because I have a few additional questions. First, did you change anything over the past month prior to the RTN? Carbon dosing, GFO, any new foods, lighting change, bulb change, anything?
I nearly killed a Lokani by starting on NOPOX to try and control some Xenia ... as if that would work. Browned out an SSC and killed off 3/4 of the Lokani when PO4 dropped to 2PPB. It's not so much where it ended up but the change. Acros are very intolerant of change, but what change can vary. This Lokani survived and GREW during an Alk spike from 8 to 10 that killed off numerous other acros and most of my slimer.
Then I carboned dosed and ended up with this after that PO4 drop.
Made 3 frags, 2 died and one is still alive (second from the right).
The important thing to remember, for both you and anyone who comes in yelling and screaming ...
is that what causes problems varies, it's the change that is the problem.
Carbon dosing is fine, as long as it's stable.
Low nitrates can be fine, as long as there's food in the water.
Low PO4 is fine, as long as it's stable.
High PO4 can be fine for many corals, again as long as it's not swinging around.
Dropping PO4 rapidly with any product can flat out kill acros, it's at least as deadly as a KH spike, sometimes worse.
So when you try and figure out what went wrong don't look at the endpoint but rather what, if anything changed. Also think of the acros as what they are, animals, who can be healthy or sickly. Stress a healthy acro and you might not have any issues, though the overall health may fall. Stress a sick acro and poof, RTN. If the frags are small and the tank is newer, or you're new to acros, then general lack of stability may be the issue, or the frags may have been in poor health, which makes your job much harder. Newer tanks, if your tank is newer, tend to have water with less food in the water column. Otherwise running at undetectable nitrate, which I have done for 8 months, typically results in less vibrant colors but acro health is otherwise fine.
I would not change much right now except to stop doing anything that may have led to the problem. I might also let the KH fall down to 7.5 and run it there for a while. Personally I run around 7, sometimes as low as 6.5. Regardless, don't go changing much, more change will lead to more stress IMO.
Good luck!
I wanted to chime in because I have a few additional questions. First, did you change anything over the past month prior to the RTN? Carbon dosing, GFO, any new foods, lighting change, bulb change, anything?
I nearly killed a Lokani by starting on NOPOX to try and control some Xenia ... as if that would work. Browned out an SSC and killed off 3/4 of the Lokani when PO4 dropped to 2PPB. It's not so much where it ended up but the change. Acros are very intolerant of change, but what change can vary. This Lokani survived and GREW during an Alk spike from 8 to 10 that killed off numerous other acros and most of my slimer.
Then I carboned dosed and ended up with this after that PO4 drop.
Made 3 frags, 2 died and one is still alive (second from the right).
The important thing to remember, for both you and anyone who comes in yelling and screaming ...
is that what causes problems varies, it's the change that is the problem.Carbon dosing is fine, as long as it's stable.
Low nitrates can be fine, as long as there's food in the water.
Low PO4 is fine, as long as it's stable.
High PO4 can be fine for many corals, again as long as it's not swinging around.
Dropping PO4 rapidly with any product can flat out kill acros, it's at least as deadly as a KH spike, sometimes worse.
So when you try and figure out what went wrong don't look at the endpoint but rather what, if anything changed. Also think of the acros as what they are, animals, who can be healthy or sickly. Stress a healthy acro and you might not have any issues, though the overall health may fall. Stress a sick acro and poof, RTN. If the frags are small and the tank is newer, or you're new to acros, then general lack of stability may be the issue, or the frags may have been in poor health, which makes your job much harder. Newer tanks, if your tank is newer, tend to have water with less food in the water column. Otherwise running at undetectable nitrate, which I have done for 8 months, typically results in less vibrant colors but acro health is otherwise fine.
I would not change much right now except to stop doing anything that may have led to the problem. I might also let the KH fall down to 7.5 and run it there for a while. Personally I run around 7, sometimes as low as 6.5. Regardless, don't go changing much, more change will lead to more stress IMO.
Good luck!
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OP
OP
ryshark
5000 Club Member
Hi, I did make a couple changes before this happened. I brought my magnesium up from about 1260 to 1360 over about 10-days. I also started feeding the oyster feast before this happened. I doubt either of those caused issues though.
markalot
Comic Relief
I doubt it as well, but you did mention Alk was mostly stable. Being up around 9, stable is 9.0 to 9.1. Seriously. Around 7, stable is 6.5 to 7.5, though I would expect some base recession if Alk was constantly bobbing up and down. The closer you are to NSW levels the more room there is for mistakes. I'm not sure why, but that's been my experience. Over time I have settled into routines that seem to give me the most room for error, but I'm still capable of harming corals.
