Can you clean/recycle dirty chaeto at 100% effectiveness?

[Labora]

So I have some dirty chaeto that I would like to clean/recycle since the normal sources are sold out.

Is there anyway to kill all bacteria/pests etc. basically anything that can harm your tank with 100% success rate?

The transfer tank already has pods.

 

[flampton]

Interesting question. IDK if something like Bayer or other coral dips would work. You can try with a small amount of chaeto and dip with freshwater containing the coral dip? Then put in a separate tank and observe. Also remove as much pests as possible beforehand too

Anyone else know or have ideas?

 

[ichthyogeek]

I've been playing around with the idea of dipping or dosing my macro tanks with something prior to the move, just to get rid of any major diseases I might have in the tanks. Fairly positive that they don't have brook, ich, or velvet, but uronema (probably present but not causing disease yet) is probably going to be an issue, since I'm not sure what I can add to the tank that will treat for uronema, but will leave the macro alone...

I debated trying to eradicate any Vibrio and/or Mycobacterium that may have gotten into the tank, but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort at least for the Vibrio, since it comes in with the frozen food...

It'd probably have to be some sort of multi stage dip/quarantine. Keep the chaeto fishless for a period of 76 days to starve out the velvet, ich, and brook. Fenbendazole to take care of hydroids/aiptasia. Metronidazole maybe just dosed to high heaven to take care of Uronema. Praziquantel, or better, piperazine would take out all worms. Of importance though, is that I don't know how the macroalgae would react to any of these medications. Assuming they react well (and don't die), that would only leave bacteria and viruses...

Of the "bad" bacteria, I'd only focus on Mycobacterium marinum. Vibrio's probably already in most systems just because a lot of people feed frozen non-irradiated food. For mycobacterium marinum....I'm stumped. Human medicine says that the best treatment is clarithromycin + ethambutol, but good luck trying to get enough to dose the tank....

 

[ichthyogeek]

Should be noted that this probably doesn't take into account any potentially harmful photosynthetic organisms (velvet discounted since it needs a fish host). So dinoflagellates, diatoms, GHA, those aren't included in what I'm trying to account for.

 

[sixty_reefer]

So I have some dirty chaeto that I would like to clean/recycle since the normal sources are sold out.

Is there anyway to kill all bacteria/pests etc. basically anything that can harm your tank with 100% success rate?

The transfer tank already has pods.

just treat it in the same way you would deal with new coral. Use coral dip or quarantine

 

[sixty_reefer]

I've been playing around with the idea of dipping or dosing my macro tanks with something prior to the move, just to get rid of any major diseases I might have in the tanks. Fairly positive that they don't have brook, ich, or velvet, but uronema (probably present but not causing disease yet) is probably going to be an issue, since I'm not sure what I can add to the tank that will treat for uronema, but will leave the macro alone...

I debated trying to eradicate any Vibrio and/or Mycobacterium that may have gotten into the tank, but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort at least for the Vibrio, since it comes in with the frozen food...

It'd probably have to be some sort of multi stage dip/quarantine. Keep the chaeto fishless for a period of 76 days to starve out the velvet, ich, and brook. Fenbendazole to take care of hydroids/aiptasia. Metronidazole maybe just dosed to high heaven to take care of Uronema. Praziquantel, or better, piperazine would take out all worms. Of importance though, is that I don't know how the macroalgae would react to any of these medications. Assuming they react well (and don't die), that would only leave bacteria and viruses...

Of the "bad" bacteria, I'd only focus on Mycobacterium marinum. Vibrio's probably already in most systems just because a lot of people feed frozen non-irradiated food. For mycobacterium marinum....I'm stumped. Human medicine says that the best treatment is clarithromycin + ethambutol, but good luck trying to get enough to dose the tank....

that seems a bit crazy just to clean algae.

 

[ichthyogeek]

that seems a bit crazy just to clean algae.

Eh, depends on the algae. If the algae's going to be used in a broodstock system for nutrient locking, the last thing I want to deal with is a parasite infection devastating my larval populations. I'm going for a "better safe than sorry" route.

 

[sixty_reefer]

Eh, depends on the algae. If the algae's going to be used in a broodstock system for nutrient locking, the last thing I want to deal with is a parasite infection devastating my larval populations. I'm going for a "better safe than sorry" route.

Fair enough but febenzadole won’t kill aiptasia and there isn’t anything that will kill WS cysts

 

[ichthyogeek]

Fair enough but febenzadole won’t kill aiptasia and there isn’t anything that will kill WS cysts

Good to know on the fenbendazole on aiptasia thing. What are WS cysts?

 

[Labora]

Eh, depends on the algae. If the algae's going to be used in a broodstock system for nutrient locking, the last thing I want to deal with is a parasite infection devastating my larval populations. I'm going for a "better safe than sorry" route.

just treat it in the same way you would deal with new coral. Use coral dip or quarantine

The only coral dip I have on hand right now is Bayer Advanced and other chemicals on stock are PraziPro, General Cure, and ChemiPure. Would I need to throw an actual coral dip on top of this to cover the spectrum? How long can you dip Chaeto for?

 

[sixty_reefer]

Good to know on the fenbendazole on aiptasia thing. What are WS cysts?

white spot

 

[Silent]

I did the tank transfer method but instead of fish I used the chaeto and instead of tanks I used small containers and at the end I had it in tap water for 24 hours.
So far so good.

 

[sixty_reefer]

The only coral dip I have on hand right now is Bayer Advanced and other chemicals on stock are PraziPro, General Cure, and ChemiPure. Would I need to throw an actual coral dip on top of this to cover the spectrum? How long can you dip Chaeto for?

a standard iodine dip should work, if you using tank water you can probably do a longer dip than you would for a coral.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I did the tank transfer method but instead of fish I used the chaeto and instead of tanks I used small containers and at the end I had it in tap water for 24 hours.
So far so good.

Tap water will stress and melt most macro algae’s, would be curious to know how it does once in the tank?

 

[Silent]

So far so good, this was about a month ago. I was willing to take that chance instead of the alternative.

 

[ichthyogeek]

white spot

Ah, so like ich and velvet. That's what the 76 day fallow period is for.

 

[Labora]

I also have hydrogen peroxide if that helps? I'll have to grab some Iodine dip.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I also have hydrogen peroxide if that helps? I'll have to grab some Iodine dip.

Hidrogen peroxide will melt it straight away best not to use it on algae

 

[ichthyogeek]

a standard iodine dip should work, if you using tank water you can probably do a longer dip than you would for a coral.

What is the purpose of an iodine dip? I know you're supposed to dip after making frags to speed up the healing process/prevent infection, but what exactly are you trying to target with iodine?

Hydrogen peroxide is a double edged sword. Remember that it attacks indiscriminately...

 

[YaboiNathan]

pretty much throw it away since you can get chaeto everywhere