Can you please help identify and treat my fish

[4FordFamily]

Yup looks like lymph to me all of my regals have had this when treating them for ich to some degree or another.

A word of warning, IME they do not do well in hypo for very long. If he stops eating, start adding salt. Angels IME do not like hypo at all - it's much worse than their reaction to copper (which I've actually never had ANY trouble with).

They last 2-5 weeks in hypo IME. 4-5 should be enough just pay close attention.

 

[PARTIDAS TANK]

Yess that is what you believe but ich will stay in your tank and it will not go away unless you use copper and a uv sterilizer cuz ich will ruin your whole tank... On the other hand imma be home soon and i have all my stuff their where i can show you what it could be

 

[melypr1985]

Yess that is what you believe but ich will stay in your tank and it will not go away unless you use copper and a uv sterilizer cuz ich will ruin your whole tank... On the other hand imma be home soon and i have all my stuff their where i can show you what it could be

Hi there! Actually using Hypo is a fine way to treat ich in the display. There are some strains of ich that are resistant to hypo, but other than that he is using a method that can and does work. After observing for a few weeks, if he sees ich again, then he should run fallow and use copper, TTM or CP to treat with in QT.

 

[ecam]

I did u lose my last angel shortly after I returned to normal salinity. That kinda of explains it now

 

[jetmaker]

Listen to melypr1985 she knows what she's talking about.

 

[ecam]

So. Should I terminate hypo

 

[redfishbluefish]

Edwin, when you terminate hypo, raise it slowly. You can go down relatively fast, but need to come back up slowly....I've been told no more than 0.003 sg per day.

 

[melypr1985]

So. Should I terminate hypo

If it's working, then ride it out. RedFishBlueFish is correct though, if you decided to go a different rout for treatment, raise the SG slowly.

 

[ecam]

sounds great... thank you all.. first time ive used this "hospital forum" and it was great... thanks

 

[Humblefish]

Looks like I'm late to the party (bad lag on my end), but I agree most likely Lymphocystis. And like @4FordFamily said, I can't remember the last time I saw a Regal that didn't have Lympho. Maintaining pristine water quality and feeding vitamin enriched foods (Selcon, Zoecon, Vita-chem) usually clears it up.

The ich problem is another story, however. If you were to raise the SG and abandon hypo, what is your Plan B for treating it? I would stay the course if I were you, as you stated in your PM that you don't have a QT setup right now. Dosing copper in your DT would turn it into an inhospitable place for corals/inverts.

 

[PARTIDAS TANK]

 

[PARTIDAS TANK]

Is that what it looks like

 

[PARTIDAS TANK]

I did u lose my last angel shortly after I returned to normal salinity. That kinda of explains it now

See what i mean ich will not die unless there is absolutely no fish

 

[4FordFamily]

See what i mean ich will not die unless there is absolutely no fish

Not necessarily some treatments can eradicate it such as hypo copper and cp

 

[Humblefish]

Not necessarily some treatments can eradicate it such as hypo copper and cp

+1 Also tank transfer method. However, if you're gonna treat in a DT hypo is probably your best bet. Despite it's downsides.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't hypo in the DT wipe out your nitrifying bacteria?....not to mention certain inverts? Could this be part of the reason he's seeing a large nitrate number?

 

[melypr1985]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't hypo in the DT wipe out your nitrifying bacteria?....not to mention certain inverts? Could this be part of the reason he's seeing a large nitrate number?

Inverts.... yes. They should be removed before hypo is started. Some bacteria will take a hit, but the population will bounce back rather quickly.

 

[Humblefish]

Inverts.... yes. They should be removed before hypo is started. Some bacteria will take a hit, but the population will bounce back rather quickly.

+1 Corals/inverts need to be removed prior and then isolated away from fish for 76 days. For some people it's the lesser of two evils, as you can just put all your corals in something like a sterilite container with a heater, circulation and provide sufficient lighting (T5 fixture with legs works great on a sterilite container.)

There is always the possibility of a mini-cycle in the DT when doing hypo, especially if your fish bio-load is heavy and rock is light. But an ammonia alert badge & bottle of Prime will usually get you through it. The surviving bacteria will quickly adapt to the hypo conditions (life always finds a way) and recolonize your rocks.

 

[ecam]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't hypo in the DT wipe out your nitrifying bacteria?....not to mention certain inverts? Could this be part of the reason he's seeing a large nitrate number?

Inverts are gone for sure. The nitrates were a result of overfeeding trying to get my last fish to eat.

When I went through hypo. I didn't get an ammonia spike that shocked me. But I guess it doesn't kill all the bacteria.

 

[4FordFamily]

I've done hypo in DT without any issue. Even had one large hermit crab that somehow survived that and copper without any issue at all. Seems unaffected. This is NOT normal and you should remove all inverts.

I had no cycle. I also can tell you skimmers will need adjustment as you adjust the salt content.