Cannot tune output of sump

elcapitan1993

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I cannot for the life of me get my output tuned with my intake, it was fine for two days and now it’s way lower and yes I have been keeping up on topping off and also no matter how much water I add it dropsback down from the marked line within 30 seconds so it’s not Evaporation, I have a gate valve to tune the intake and a dc pump to help tune the output, still cannot get them matched and it takes days sometimes to figure out that it’s not EVAP, I have added a first standpipe to make it quieter and have a trickle going down my emergency drain, I thought that any extra pumped in would go down the emergency and keep it leveled ? Can someone please help me this is my first sump and I’m just about to throw it in the trash
 
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Can you tell us a little about the system? Pictures would be helpful as well so we can get this straightened out for you!
 
I got the h20verflow with the stealth box, supposedly does 1200 GPH or more, I have a economy gate valve in my intake and a ball valve on my output but do not use it to help tune, the intake is 1-1/2 inch pvc and the output is 1 inch pvc using the orlushy 24v dc pump witch does up to 1350 GPH.

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1) Whoever designed that overflow doesn’t understand flow. It will never handle 1200gph.
2) Termonology: Drains from tank to sump, return from pump to tank. :cool: Inlet/outlet is too confusing.

SO, all that aside, you need to tune either the drains or the return. To start, have everything full open and the return pump off. Fill the sump to 1-2” from totally full with saltwater. Then, turn the pump on max and watch the level in the tank, being ready to turn it off if the level gets too high. A second person helps.

One of two things happens, the drains can handle the flow but are noisy OR the drains can’t handle the flow. If the drains can handle the flow, close down the gate valve a little at a time until the noise level drops. If the return is too much, step the pump down a notch and repeat. Once you have the pump set you can go about reducing the noise as described above.

And that’s how to set drains for a Herbie or BeanAnimal setup.

Good luck.
 
1) Whoever designed that overflow doesn’t understand flow. It will never handle 1200gph.
2) Termonology: Drains from tank to sump, return from pump to tank. :cool: Inlet/outlet is too confusing.

SO, all that aside, you need to tune either the drains or the return. To start, have everything full open and the return pump off. Fill the sump to 1-2” from totally full with saltwater. Then, turn the pump on max and watch the level in the tank, being ready to turn it off if the level gets too high. A second person helps.

One of two things happens, the drains can handle the flow but are noisy OR the drains can’t handle the flow. If the drains can handle the flow, close down the gate valve a little at a time until the noise level drops. If the return is too much, step the pump down a notch and repeat. Once you have the pump set you can go about reducing the noise as described above.

And that’s how to set drains for a Herbie or BeanAnimal setup.

Good luck.
Thank you, I tried that but still causing me trouble fine tuning it, how long should I wait in between each tiny adjustment? As soon as I see it go down a little I adjust it but am I not waiting long enough? Is there something I’m missing? It seems like nothing I do works and I have been making adjustments for hours each day for weeks and I just cannot take it anymore this is ridiculous
 
If you open the gate valve all the way, and run the pump in the lowest setting, what happens? Mine normally balances out at the new settings in about 5 minutes. I don’t make adjustments any more frequent than that.
 
Also, are you seeing evaporation and topping off before making adjustments? You may be seeing water level changes from evaporation and not flow imbalances.
 
When I open the valve with my pump on the lowest setting my sump wants to overflow,as for evaporation I can say for sure that’s not it I keep 10 gallons of ro water by my sump and fill it every day, even after I pour new water in there it just back down to the spot it lowered to overnight not matter how much water I add it drops back down to the point it lowered to , I check my salinity twice a day with the Milwaukee refractometer being sure to calibrate it with ro water to make sure it’s accurate. If it was EVAP wouldn’t my salinity be fluctuating?
 
When the return pump is off, the sump has the highest water level it will see. The pump needs to move water up to the display before any water can drain back to the sump.
 
Because if my flow valve is all the way open and my pump is on the lowest setting more water is going into the sump then out, I basically have to have my gate valve completely closed for the pump to kind of stabilize on the lowest setting, right now I’m trying wave mode and seeing if I can get it stable that way
Ok, very confused. If the pump is on the lowest setting, why is the sump going to overflow?
i
 
When your return pump is turned off, your sump HAS to be able to handle all water that drains into it. If it doesn't then you need a new larger sump, or you need to drill a hole in the return line close to the outlet/water surface, or some how get your return outlet closer to the water surface so that when it back-drains into the return pump, air will quickly enter the return line and stop the flow.
 
How can you have more water draining out of the tank than the pump is pushing into it? That’s what I don’t understand. Trying to help but still confused.
 
 
@elcapitan1993 I am confused also do not under stand how you can have more flow into the sump then the return pump is placing in the display tank.

Maybe some pictures of the actual over flow might help people understand so they can help you.
 
If your sump is overflowing, then you have too much water. With your gate valve open and the return pump off, your sump should still have 1-2 inches of open space. What is your situation?

It is very easy to remove water. I just scoop it out with a pitcher.
 

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