Can't get Nitrates down.

Also I know everyone hates it but gha will eat up nitrates maybe move some clean up to the ref. And turn the lights up a little to grow some then when you fix the issue slowly move them back
 
Sump pics

BB294A4F-C63B-403D-ADF5-61263E6C31E7.jpeg 4E1B5A2A-CEFB-4611-83E1-F326D9A4DA51.jpeg 5E8E7B18-01B2-43DB-BFED-7867557C95CB.jpeg
 
Can I as a stupid question about cheto and fudges . Why does everyone run red lights? Wouldn’t 6500 K be more ideal for growth? Ok maybe 4-5000 k lights also . but they are always so unnaturally red .
 
Can I as a stupid question about cheto and fudges . Why does everyone run red lights? Wouldn’t 6500 K be more ideal for growth? Ok maybe 4-5000 k lights also . but they are always so unnaturally red .
I believe the argument is that plants don't really use green and a couple other parts of the daylight spectrum, so there's not much point in the electrical bill and fixture cost to make that portion of the spectrum. When you put in just what the plants are using you end up with a a purplish color to our eyes.
 
You might need a better light
I have this mounted on top of my fuge, with lego spacers for a little air gap to reduce condensation. I have live rock in the fuge to within 3" to raise the chaeto to maximize par.
Pic in normal light, hard to see anything when pink light is on.

Fuge8a.jpg
 
There's a lot of "You need to make this change/buy this equipment" going on in this thread right now.

What we know:
1. The OP's tank was poorly maintained (assumption), and water parameters were off, very off.
2. A series of water changes were performed, and at least for nitrate the results were as expected.
3. The OP would like to successfully grow corals that he was not able to previously.

I don't think we have enough of a history on this system to say if high nitrates are or are not an ongoing concern. If a week from now we get to "My nitrates keep going up and I do not wish to reduce feeding" then we can start to draw that conclusion.

Personally I grow chaeto (not great, but I have to dose nitrate to keep it above 0 and my phosphate is too low) under an H80, so I'm disinclined to say that an H160 is incapable of growing macro, or that another piece of equipment is required (or will make a significant difference) in solving this particular puzzle.

Just because the OP has been stung with the aquarium service classic of "I'll sell you coral I can't keep alive in your tank" doesn't mean he needs to throw more equipment at the problem. Personally I think some time to stabilize, and a bit more data to guide us all, is what this tank needs most.
Dropped again to 16ppm Nitrates. Headed in the right direction. Gonna back off to a 18% water change per week and see what things do from here on.
 
Ok I was just grabbing numbers off BRSTV and some websites but sounds like 10ppm NO3 is a decent goal to shoot for. My numbers prior were the result of a negligent local shop who was contracted to manage my tank. Needless to say I fired them after I saw my first water tests I ever conducted.
I had the same issue with high nitrates when my local LFS was suppose to manage my tank too. Basically they did water changes, emptied skimmer, cleaned the display and tweaked dosing pumps. Once I was forced to take over because of COVID, I started to realize that my skimmer needed cleaning more often and my socks were never changed. They did a good job for twice month visits but the tank needed so much more attention. I didn’t realize it until I got involved.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

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