Can't get rid of Cyano

I see many of them over the months online as time passes and they are cyano free as a trend

including one 75 just converted over in person, John Cole's 75

Literally no cyano on the floor anymore, never was any on the rocks

I'm cyano free in my reef perpetually by the exact same measure but with a sandbed...mine is rinsed so heavily, literally taken apart and rinsed in the sink until zero detritus that its the same as not having a sandbed. We typically work with sandbed tanks agreed, and we attack only the bed on most of them to make a restore, a skip cycle bed replacement.

on nano-reef.com in gen forum we are collecting a few non chem cure ups for cyano or spirulina, ID didn't matter we just cleaned out the bed

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/376600-picture-of-my-tanks-new-sand-bed/#entry5391929

Nanos are fun because they'll speed model what large tanks take months to show. If his cyano rebounds he'll post, and we didn't have ability to tune lighting it was all sandbed change only. I bet he'll post if it comes back, and depending on fish bioloading and sandbed maintenance interim it sure should come back some day predictably.

I predict the op in the thread cannot pass a drop test with the sandbed assumed to be in place. It would be neat to see water column nitrate and phosphate tests vs bottom layer mud sample for both. It's also an opinion of mine the high reflectivity index of white sand also helps it to boost cyano and spirulina issues as a top layer resident
 
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I tried the hydrogen peroxide test and after an hour or two it looks pretty much the same... so does that tell me what to do to treat it? Currently I'm trying no light for a couple days and then water change.

I don't know what a drop test is. I'm not removing the sandbed, that isn't an option. There's just as much cyano on the rocks is there is on the sand.
 
the sand is feeding if your sandbed doesn't pass a drop test, handy nutrient verifier that one is

cyano doesn't colonize bare bottom rocks very often

its ok to leave it in place and add things to the water, that's what the majority will do and if it works no harm done. Decent first option

lights for sure... these invaders love the bright whites and reds. blues helps suppress, my system looks like a 20K light it helps

*the tank cleanout -is- the amplifier for your water treatment. when you dose X to the cleaned condition, its a growback preventer not an exporter/killer. to add a few mils of X to an invaded tank is more cells for X to attack, the cleaned condition and that same dosage/ml's is much more attack on target cells. Handy dandy
 
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Chemiclean is only effective against the spirulina genus
really?
Interesting. I did a chemiclean treatment last weekend and it cleared up the cyano. I had to vacuume the sand bed but I got so much junk out...
 
I may have jumped the gun now the water is light purple... maybe I didn't wait long enough. I will let it sit over night and see if it gets real dark... I ordere chemi clean already but I'm going to try not lights and then a good move all the rocks suck the sand good clean water change.
 
really?
Interesting. I did a chemiclean treatment last weekend and it cleared up the cyano. I had to vacuume the sand bed but I got so much junk out...
Yes this is correct
During my tests using chemiclean and H2O2 this was discovered.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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