Cant get rid of Cyano!

[Cyanohater]

I've been battling this bacteria for a year to half a year. I've done all in the book, blackouts, nutrient, parameters control. My parameters are even stable. I've got anemones and corals. I just cannot get rid of this stuff. The only thing I haven't tried is chemiclean. Should I try it? Would it hurt?

 

[dwest]

I've been battling this bacteria for a year to half a year. I've done all in the book, blackouts, nutrient, parameters control. My parameters are even stable. I've got anemones and corals. I just cannot get rid of this stuff. The only thing I haven't tried is chemiclean. Should I try it? Would it hurt?

I’ve been battling it for almost 30 years, so I have you beat!

Honestly though, if you keep doing the right things, most of it will very slowly go away on its own.

Theres no way I would put chemiclean in my tank.

pic from my current location

 

[reacclimating 2 the hobby]

Share parameters, pic of tank...

 

[kevgib67]

I used chemiclean with no issues and it worked great. I do understand the hesitancy of not using chemicals in your tank. Do what’s best for you.

 

[reacclimating 2 the hobby]

I used chemiclean with no issues and it worked great. I do understand the hesitancy of not using chemicals in your tank. Do what’s best for you.

With corals?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've been battling this bacteria for a year to half a year. I've done all in the book, blackouts, nutrient, parameters control. My parameters are even stable. I've got anemones and corals. I just cannot get rid of this stuff. The only thing I haven't tried is chemiclean. Should I try it? Would it hurt?

Do not do Chemi Clean . . Yet . Its an alternative and often not a solution. First thing is to recognize cause then follow plan on bottom.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

* I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[brandon429]

For a 40 gallon setup this method can't be beat

Algae Identification

Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?

www.reef2reef.com

You can find 20 'chemiclean killed my corals' posts. You can't find any bad looking rip clean posts if they copied that thread. No other method works as well, it's why there's seven examples of other people's tanks there. Works well for others

 

[Cyanohater]

For a 40 gallon setup this method can't be beat

Algae Identification

Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?

www.reef2reef.com

You can find 20 'chemiclean killed my corals' posts. You can't find any bad looking rip clean posts if they copied that thread. No other method works as well, it's why there's seven examples of other people's tanks there. Works well for others

I appreciate it.

Do not do Chemi Clean . . Yet . Its an alternative and often not a solution. First thing is to recognize cause then floow plan on bottom.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

* I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I've tried to dark method, then dosing bacteria for a little over a month. It just popped right back. I do weekly waterchanges of ten percent. I did try and run gfo, and it wasn't to good of an experience. Maybe I am feeding too much. I'll cut back on that. This may not work but hopefully it will help. I'll try another black out after less feeding and nlmore bacteria doses.

 

[Cyanohater]

I can pick up some copepods and bacteria tomorrow. As well as any clean up crew members. I don't have many just three hermits and two tiger conch. If this doesn't work I'll do a rip clean. I just don't want to disturb my ecosystem I have going as it's all perfect minus the cyano.

 

[Dan_P]

I've been battling this bacteria for a year to half a year. I've done all in the book, blackouts, nutrient, parameters control. My parameters are even stable. I've got anemones and corals. I just cannot get rid of this stuff. The only thing I haven't tried is chemiclean. Should I try it? Would it hurt?

1.5 years seems like a long time. Would post a picture under white light of the culprit?

 

[kevgib67]

With corals?

Softie, LPS and easy sps. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[Create New]

Hey mate, can I ask are you using an RODI unit and if so do you have a TDS meter? I'd highly recommend you check your TDS to see if that's the problem.

 

[Cyanohater]

Hey mate, can I ask are you using an RODI unit and if so do you have a TDS meter? I'd highly recommend you check your TDS to see if that's the problem.

I do use a rodi and test to make sure I'm still getting good water. I do not have a tds meter.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I appreciate it.

I've tried to dark method, then dosing bacteria for a little over a month. It just popped right back. I do weekly waterchanges of ten percent. I did try and run gfo, and it wasn't to good of an experience. Maybe I am feeding too much. I'll cut back on that. This may not work but hopefully it will help. I'll try another black out after less feeding and nlmore bacteria doses.

Yes. . . .. Reducing amount fed reduces Phosphates and you want to beat the bad bacteria with good bacteria. Ive found cyano one of the easiest nightmares to conquer.

 

[Create New]

I do use a rodi and test to make sure I'm still getting good water. I do not have a tds meter.

They are really cheap, you should buy one and test your RODI water with it, if what you're saying is true and your parameters are good, it might be the water.

 

[Cyanohater]

Hey all, quick update I tested for phosphates and Nitrates, phosphates are kind of embarrassing at 0.5ish and Nitrates at 25 ish