Can't increase alkalinity, what is happening?

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Jamon

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Hi,

My Hanna test shows Alk at 3.8 in my reef tank. I've been adding baking soda of about 10 to 15 teaspoons for my 200 gallon tank. The levels have not gone up or have been stuck around 4-5dkh. I am just at a loss and have no idea what to try anymore to increase alkalinity. What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated.


All is 3.8
Mag is 1230
Ca is 400
78F
 
How new/established is the tank, and when you mixed up the saltwater for it or performed your last water change - what was the alkalinity? I'm inclined to think there could be a problem with the test - so I'd either take a water sample to your LFS for testing -or- try another test kit like Salifert (just to rule that out as a reason first).
 
Double check your alk with a different test kit
 
How new/established is the tank, and when you mixed up the saltwater for it or performed your last water change - what was the alkalinity? I'm inclined to think there could be a problem with the test - so I'd either take a water sample to your LFS for testing -or- try another test kit like Salifert (just to rule that out as a reason first).
Will do. I bought a Hanna Alk test and figured it can't be wrong, but now I have my doubts. Will get a 2nd test. Thank you.
 
Will do. I bought a Hanna Alk test and figured it can't be wrong, but now I have my doubts. Will get a 2nd test. Thank you.
Have a trusted LFS test it for you and with NO api brand, then you will know.
Alk changes somewhat during the day but when it drops or remains low, you either have high consumption which can occur but rare Or use a salt mix that has higher DKH values such as reef crystals, coral reef pro and tropic Marin. Generally baking soda is at 1 teaspoon per 10 gals and when you get no increase, there may be false results. My Hanna has been in consistence with Trident and salifert kit
Using a 2 part calcium and alkalinity solution is what most aquarists use to assure their system levels are stable
IF YOU ARE TESTING RIGHT AFTER ADDING CALCIUM, YOUR ALK WILL SHOW A LOW NUMBER
 
I agree, first order of business is confirm the result.

Whether or not the reading is correct, are you mixing the baking soda with water before adding? In general, you want to mix the dry ingredients with deionized water and dose as a liquid to prevent precipitation.

If the reading is correct, you'll also want to figure out why your alkalinity got so far off. Alkalinity of 3.8 dKh suggests there's a serious problem with your salt mix or mixing practices.
 
Have a trusted LFS test it for you and with NO api brand, then you will know.
Alk changes somewhat during the day but when it drops or remains low, you either have high consumption which can occur but rare Or use a salt mix that has higher DKH values such as reef crystals, coral reef pro and tropic Marin. Generally baking soda is at 1 teaspoon per 10 gals and when you get no increase, there may be false results. My Hanna has been in consistence with Trident and salifert kit
Using a 2 part calcium and alkalinity solution is what most aquarists use to assure their system levels are stable
IF YOU ARE TESTING RIGHT AFTER ADDING CALCIUM, YOUR ALK WILL SHOW A LOW NUMBER
API is fine for alkalinity. It's just not real precise at the 1dkh per drop - but it's accurate enough to tell him if his hanna is doing dumb things.

I don't trust my hanna meter at all (well, I trust the meter, I don't trust hanna's alkalinity reagents, which have been super inconsistent for me. Big differences bottle to bottle - even testing in parallel). I now use a Red Sea Pro kit - which has been way more consistent.


@Jamon


Mix up some actual 2-part and start calculating out what you should be dosing.
 
API is fine for alkalinity. It's just not real precise at the 1dkh per drop - but it's accurate enough to tell him if his hanna is doing dumb things.

I don't trust my hanna meter at all (well, I trust the meter, I don't trust hanna's alkalinity reagents, which have been super inconsistent for me. Big differences bottle to bottle - even testing in parallel). I now use a Red Sea Pro kit - which has been way more consistent.


@Jamon


Mix up some actual 2-part and start calculating out what you should be dosing.
Same. API gets me within a point and I use salifert maybe once a year when I am bored and curious.
 
API is fine for alkalinity. It's just not real precise at the 1dkh per drop - but it's accurate enough to tell him if his hanna is doing dumb things.

I don't trust my hanna meter at all (well, I trust the meter, I don't trust hanna's alkalinity reagents, which have been super inconsistent for me. Big differences bottle to bottle - even testing in parallel). I now use a Red Sea Pro kit - which has been way more consistent.


@Jamon


Mix up some actual 2-part and start calculating out what you should be dosing.
Im familiar with this article which was from 2008 and you can imagine how much has changed and bear in mind, API was at that time one of the only kits available. In the 70's, it was only tetra.
If you want to rely on API for your coral, have at it, but with $6000 in livestock in my tank, Its the last intrument im relying on to sustain them.
Sometime reading articles can get one in trouble- its the opinion of the author and over the near 40 years of doing this- Ive seen API responsible for many failures due to false results
 
Will do. I bought a Hanna Alk test and figured it can't be wrong, but now I have my doubts. Will get a 2nd test. Thank you.
My hanna tester for alk is garbage. Always had it wayy of. Salirfert, red sea, and even spintouch are always very close together. Put it like this new hanna tester and reagent was 9.1 , all the others 7.1 that is a hugeeee difference. Triple check if need be
 
Im familiar with this article which was from 2008 and you can imagine how much has changed and bear in mind, API was at that time one of the only kits available. In the 70's, it was only tetra.
If you want to rely on API for your coral, have at it, but with $6000 in livestock in my tank, Its the last intrument im relying on to sustain them.
Sometime reading articles can get one in trouble- its the opinion of the author and over the near 40 years of doing this- Ive seen API responsible for many failures due to false results
If you are using a hobby grade test kit they are all about the same. No hobby grade kit will be any more beneficial than API. Trust me I have plenty of $ in corals and as I get older I find that chasing a number on a kit is a waste of everyone's time.
 
If you are using a hobby grade test kit they are all about the same. No hobby grade kit will be any more beneficial than API. Trust me I have plenty of $ in corals and as I get older I find that chasing a number on a kit is a waste of everyone's time.
Kits are for reference. Management is the essential as you have to balance with calcium
 
Kits are for reference. Management is the essential as you have to balance with calcium
Exactly. API will get you within 1 point or so of where you need to be. So why waste money on another kit that will really never get you any further in this hobby? Now I do not use API for anything else but I rarely test and only ever test Alk, PO4 and Nitrate if I do.
 
Thank you everyone, it's great to get part of this unbelievable community. And you were all exactly correct. The testing kit was flawed and gave me wrong readings. Got another testing kit and everything is exactly as it should be. Thanks again.
 
Thank you everyone, it's great to get part of this unbelievable community. And you were all exactly correct. The testing kit was flawed and gave me wrong readings. Got another testing kit and everything is exactly as it should be. Thanks again.
As suspected
 
Im familiar with this article which was from 2008 and you can imagine how much has changed and bear in mind, API was at that time one of the only kits available. In the 70's, it was only tetra.
If you want to rely on API for your coral, have at it, but with $6000 in livestock in my tank, Its the last intrument im relying on to sustain them.
Sometime reading articles can get one in trouble- its the opinion of the author and over the near 40 years of doing this- Ive seen API responsible for many failures due to false results
Again, I'm not advocating for the API kit as anything other than a validation tool right now. It's not a good test.

But neither is the Hanna alkalinity meter.

The API is simple - it's the same acid based titration test as everyone else. The big issue is that "Per drop" tests have wide error ranges. But so does the Hanna (+/- .5dkh).

And frankly, considering the constant issues that Hanna seems to have with their reagent supply chain, I trust Aquarium Pharmaceuticals a whole lot more than I trust Hanna at this point. Hanna makes nice devices, and I really like my HR Nitrate and ULR Phosphate meters - but their ability to provide consistent high quality reagents has been non-existent for a couple years.

As suspected
You were literally just arguing the opposite.
 

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