Reefiness
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it would seem I am way over tightening if this is correct.
Can't Unscrew RODI Canisters
- Thread starter Tristan
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it would seem I am way over tightening if this is correct.
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I hand-tighten mine and have never had a leak (I've been using this same canister-style filter for many years with my brewing; so far longer than my tank has been around). The canisters will tighten on their own as the water runs through it (vacuums created and all that), so while you might (often will) need the wrench to get them off, you shouldn't be using it to put them on. If you feel like you have to, I would first take it off and make sure that things aren't cross-threaded (unaligned). If you still have problems, then you can try cleaning off both threads with a damp rag. If things STILL don't seal with just hand-tightening, I would check the o-ring for damage (or just replace it - the effort is the same and the cost is minimal). Only if all of that checked out would I look to use the wrench to tighten things - and then, I'd only go so far as was needed to stop the leak.
timfountain
New Member
I know many people say to only lightly tighten them but honestly mine leak like a SOB if I don't turn them pretty tight. I just can't see how it works otherwise. I have 2 Speactrapure RODI's and they are both a PIA. I dread changing filters. I nearly always crack one when tightening but if I don't they just leak. I now have 3 complete fitter canisters with tops on hot standby for when they crack....
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It's actually VERY hard to get a "hard plastic to hard plastic" join to form a watertight seal. That's why the rubber o-rings are built into these units (and also why plumbing often uses the softer Teflon tape in between hard fittings.
My suggestion would be to check your o-rings for damage - or just replace them and skip the inspection. To visually inspect them, you'll want to remove the o-ring from it's channel - being careful not to gouge, cut or break it. This is rather difficult, most of the time - which is why it's pretty standard to just replace them once they are out. What you're looking for is any kind of damage to any surface of the ring. With the pressure that RO/DI units come under (upwards of 90+PSI), even the smallest nick, hole, or cut will result in a leak more often than not. If the ring is not pliable and easily twisted about like a rubber band, then it could be the cause of a leak as it does not seat uniformly. Even with a visual inspection, it's still possible for there to be damage too small to see with the naked eye, though this will usually also be too small of damage to cause leaking, in my experience.
Sorry you've had such trouble with yours. Sounds frustrating. :-(
Once removed the first time and coating the o-ring with silicone grease they should unscrew by hand after that. No need to pack them down tight since it is the o-ring that provides the seal unlike a pipe thread that is tapered and relies on tightness to seal.
I admit, I do use channel locks on the membrane housing, at least the first time and it gets the silicone grease treatment not only on the housing o-ring but also on the membrane too.
I admit, I do use channel locks on the membrane housing, at least the first time and it gets the silicone grease treatment not only on the housing o-ring but also on the membrane too.
DBR_Reef
Active Member
I've replaced filters on RO units that have been lying around for a couple years, that were impossible to separate with the chintzy plastic wrench. A bench vice takes them right off no problem
Waterjockey
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Mine were crazy tight the first time as well. Broke the little plastic wrench it came with. Had to use a chain wrench and extension bar
Anthony kolodziej
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you have to relieve the pressure inside the canister by opening a valve or something , then it may still be a bit tough so a canister wrench or filter wrench . A wise man once told me , if you have to force something , you are doing it wrong
Waterjockey
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After spending the first 20 years of my working life in a boiler room doing a lot of pipe/steam fitting, all I can say is that wise man never had to sling several hundreds of pounds of 12 inch steam valves in a 10 inch opening 30 feet in the air.
The first time I tried to take min off was about 60 seconds after opening the box it was delivered in...hadn't seen water yet. The interference fit on the plastic threads was clearly too tight...and probably a temperature difference in my living room from whatever factory they were assembled in darn near welded the two pieces together.
DBR_Reef
Active Member
I've always used plain old plumbers silicon grease- I just use a little, as a little goes a long way, and it is not technically food grade. But many reefers use it in their tanks, and I have never heard of any problems. I would steer clear of superlube and the like, as it is not really used prevalently in faucets and the like.
cracker
5000 Club Member
I was looking for something safe to put on the O rings on my skimmers. I usually end up waiting too long to empty and when I do the o rings are tight and I end up sloshing the nasty stuff !
DBR_Reef
Active Member
yes- silicon grease. If you want to be super careful get food grade. Any dive shop should have it. I think some brew stores might have it as well, for lubricating keg o rings
KY is soluble, you don't want the silicone grease to wash away.
I get food grade silicone grease at the homebrewing shop but have seen it at Lowes too.
I get food grade silicone grease at the homebrewing shop but have seen it at Lowes too.
OP
OP
Tristan
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the ones I'll be trying are the hot water, pvc handle, and the relieving pressure one. I had a bunch of homework and wasn't able to try to take it off today. The strap wrench and straight jaw pliers seem good but I just don't have the time to go to Home Depot and get one.
OP
OP
Tristan
Well-Known Member
Finally I got them open. Once I pushed down on my float valve and tried to open it, i got it open no problem. I gues I thought since it was a float valve all the water would flow out. Thanks a lot
This issue comes up often, and I think the main things we emphasize in our response to customers have been covered:
1. Make sure all pressure has been relieved
2. Use a housing wrench to remove housings
3. DON'T use channel locks on the clear housings - use a strap wrench if necessary
4. Every time you change the filters, remove the oring, inspect it for damage, wash it like a dirty dish, pat dry, apply food grade silicone grease, reinstall. Many RODI owners never do this. When we hear people complaining about not being able to get housings off, it's almost always the case that the oring has never been lubed, and the housing was tightened with a wrench.
5. Never use Vaseline to lube orings. It's a petroleum product.
Also -
6. Orings are not interchangeable between different brands of housings.
7. Orings are maintenance items. Expect that you'll need to replace them periodically. Have some on hand. If you bought from a reputable vendor, they'll have replacements available. We can often recognize the manufacturer of the housing with a good picture (as in the case of No. 8, below), and stock appropriate orings.
8. Tighten housings by hand only. If they still leak, give it maybe just a little nudge (like 1/8th or less of a turn) with the wrench. If it still leaks, replace the oring.
9. Don't overtighten the housings. When you tighten the housing, the clear threaded part is pulled upward, away from the oring and the rest of the clear sump. If you overtighten, you may get a sudden, unpleasant reminder when you least expect it. Here's the surprise, time-delayed failure of a competitor's housing that was overtightened:
Russ
1. Make sure all pressure has been relieved
2. Use a housing wrench to remove housings
3. DON'T use channel locks on the clear housings - use a strap wrench if necessary
4. Every time you change the filters, remove the oring, inspect it for damage, wash it like a dirty dish, pat dry, apply food grade silicone grease, reinstall. Many RODI owners never do this. When we hear people complaining about not being able to get housings off, it's almost always the case that the oring has never been lubed, and the housing was tightened with a wrench.
5. Never use Vaseline to lube orings. It's a petroleum product.
Also -
6. Orings are not interchangeable between different brands of housings.
7. Orings are maintenance items. Expect that you'll need to replace them periodically. Have some on hand. If you bought from a reputable vendor, they'll have replacements available. We can often recognize the manufacturer of the housing with a good picture (as in the case of No. 8, below), and stock appropriate orings.
8. Tighten housings by hand only. If they still leak, give it maybe just a little nudge (like 1/8th or less of a turn) with the wrench. If it still leaks, replace the oring.
9. Don't overtighten the housings. When you tighten the housing, the clear threaded part is pulled upward, away from the oring and the rest of the clear sump. If you overtighten, you may get a sudden, unpleasant reminder when you least expect it. Here's the surprise, time-delayed failure of a competitor's housing that was overtightened:
Russ
