Cant wrap my head around cyano, my arch enemy

[m0jjen]

Tank seem to be in a full on dive and the health declines. A mixture or dino and cyano is present with predominant cyano. I went through possible errors and whatnot checking my equipment and calibrations and found that my apex temp probe was 1.5 celsius to high making the tank 26.5 c or 79.7F. No idea for how long but probably quite some time.

If im not mistaking bacteria like dino and cyano might benefit from this?

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Tank seem to be in a full on dive and the health declines. A mixture or dino and cyano is present with predominant cyano. I went through possible errors and whatnot checking my equipment and calibrations and found that my apex temp probe was 1.5 celsius to high making the tank 26.5 c or 79.7F. No idea for how long but probably quite some time.

If im not mistaking bacteria like dino and cyano might benefit from this?

I run a consistant 26.6 °c its the temperature that cost me the least to maintain.

 

[m0jjen]

I run a consistant 26.6 °c its the temperature that cost me the least to maintain.

Not saying its the cause for anything, just saying that it might be a contributing reason for it. Higher temperature means less oxygen and higher metabolism

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Not saying its the cause for anything, just saying that it might be a contributing reason for it. Higher temperature means less oxygen and higher metabolism

I know I'm not implying anything, im just putting out the information i have.

 

[m0jjen]

I know I'm not implying anything, im just putting out the information i have.

Not my intention to say you did, im sorry if it sounded so Thanks for the input!

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Not my intention to say you did, im sorry if it sounded so Thanks for the input!

Same

 

[m0jjen]

Full set of parameters taken today:

S.g 1.025
Ca: 400
mg: 1320
Kh: 8
No3: 16
Po4: 0.1

Condition is neither improving or declining. No3 on the rise since my chaeto stopped growing most likely

 

[m0jjen]

Update:

Some hairalgae starting to show on glas surfaces. So we're a happy little family of cyano, dino and hairalgae!

 

[m0jjen]

This is what we got going.

Todays nutrients: 12 ppm no3 and 0.10 ppm po4.

Got an 80w deltec UV running now on total of 700 litres. specified for 1800 Liter~

 

[|sCRIBe|]

any updates on your cyano issue?

 

[m0jjen]

any updates on your cyano issue?

Dino and cyano is still around. Dino is pretty much under controll since i added the UV. Nutrients are 12 ppm no3 and 0.12 ppm po4. Wont try to limit dem, ill just promot beneficial bacteria and let the system do its thing. Corals dont seem to bothered by it all.

 

[ScottB]

Feeding is frozen daily. I've reduced it to half of what i previously did which was about 2.5 cubes of mysis daily to abit over 1 cube. I occationally throw in 10-15 pellets (every other day or so).

How big is this cube? Fingernail size roughly? Or something much bigger?

I know you have no sand, so how much rock is in the 625?

In my experience, cyano is a transitional competitor, taking hold when the biome nutrient levels and nutrient processing levels are bouncing around or shifting too quickly. Or where one nutrient or the other is moving around.

I always get cyano when coming out of dinos. That is a given. But it generally gives way to algae and bacterial films as those are built back up and then FINALLY coralline takes over.

All of what you initially describe is textbook reefing and yet this persists, so something is going on that increases "noise" in the biome. Do you have an ORP measure?

How about a full tank shot for a sense of your rock?

 

[m0jjen]

How big is this cube? Fingernail size roughly? Or something much bigger?

I know you have no sand, so how much rock is in the 625?

In my experience, cyano is a transitional competitor, taking hold when the biome nutrient levels and nutrient processing levels are bouncing around or shifting too quickly. Or where one nutrient or the other is moving around.

I always get cyano when coming out of dinos. That is a given. But it generally gives way to algae and bacterial films as those are built back up and then FINALLY coralline takes over.

All of what you initially describe is textbook reefing and yet this persists, so something is going on that increases "noise" in the biome. Do you have an ORP measure?

How about a full tank shot for a sense of your rock?

been freeding pretty much 1.5 thumbnail cubes, reduced it to about 1 thumbnail.

I got about 90 lbs of rock, alongside some maxspect biospheres and blocks.

Do you have an ORP measure? - Yes i do!

Pretty normal curve for me- 420 - 440ish

When i added the UV

Typical reaction to a 10% waterchange

 

[ScottB]

been freeding pretty much 1.5 thumbnail cubes, reduced it to about 1 thumbnail.

I got about 90 lbs of rock, alongside some maxspect biospheres and blocks.

Do you have an ORP measure? - Yes i do!

Pretty normal curve for me- 420 - 440ish

When i added the UV

Typical reaction to a 10% waterchange

The variance is fine, but that high average level might be telling us something. I have two systems and the one (525xl) with high ORP (400) is definitely the noisy one. Cannot keep nitrates, but PO4 builds regularly. While it is in a fine spot right now, it has seen all the usual nuisances Dinos, cyano, GHA etc. Once I added more large fish it settled down. I feed about 3 cubes a day plus a sheet of nori. Skimmer, socks, ceramic media. pH on this system is a tad low. I don't have the cabinet space for a kalkwasser solution.

My low (305) ORP system (300G frag) is much more stable and I feed about 5 cubes plus nori. Nutrients there are super stable 5/.05. pH is high (8.2-8.4) with 3.6 liters of kalk pushed in daily. Skimmer, socks, ceramic media, sump rock.

I am going to guess your pH range is on the low side given that ORP level.

So what to do?

a) I would be gradually building up the bioload in the tank. More fish and more frequent feedings. More herbivores.
b) If you do in fact have a pH range that doesn't reach 8.3, figure out a kalk solution with a DOS head.
c) If your ICP tests are returning .11 then your actual PO4 is likely double that. PO4 does not travel well. You can read about that here. Get some new cuvettes and keep them tidy and smudge free. Dose some lanthanum chloride VERY carefully.
d) It is a little odd that you test nitrates at a reasonable level (now at least) but still face dinos. I suspect your test kit. I am a fan now of the Hanna High Range tester. (And yes, it is more consistent than the Hanna PO4 kit.)

 

[m0jjen]

The variance is fine, but that high average level might be telling us something. I have two systems and the one (525xl) with high ORP (400) is definitely the noisy one. Cannot keep nitrates, but PO4 builds regularly. While it is in a fine spot right now, it has seen all the usual nuisances Dinos, cyano, GHA etc. Once I added more large fish it settled down. I feed about 3 cubes a day plus a sheet of nori. Skimmer, socks, ceramic media. pH on this system is a tad low. I don't have the cabinet space for a kalkwasser solution.

My low (305) ORP system (300G frag) is much more stable and I feed about 5 cubes plus nori. Nutrients there are super stable 5/.05. pH is high (8.2-8.4) with 3.6 liters of kalk pushed in daily. Skimmer, socks, ceramic media, sump rock.

I am going to guess your pH range is on the low side given that ORP level.

So what to do?

a) I would be gradually building up the bioload in the tank. More fish and more frequent feedings. More herbivores.
b) If you do in fact have a pH range that doesn't reach 8.3, figure out a kalk solution with a DOS head.
c) If your ICP tests are returning .11 then your actual PO4 is likely double that. PO4 does not travel well. You can read about that here. Get some new cuvettes and keep them tidy and smudge free. Dose some lanthanum chloride VERY carefully.
d) It is a little odd that you test nitrates at a reasonable level (now at least) but still face dinos. I suspect your test kit. I am a fan now of the Hanna High Range tester. (And yes, it is more consistent than the Hanna PO4 kit.)

Cuvettes are new. The hanna is not even a month old

Regarding bioload i got 6 tangs. All fat (fattest fishes ive ever had in 10 years actually). 1 copperbanded butterfly 2 clowns 1 hawkfish 2 wrasses 1 dragonette

This is in the whole setup with fragtank. Total water volum about 700 litre all in all.

Feeding more reallh isnt a problem either. They get feed plenty judging from their health. Along with grazing. Copperbanded butterfly is really fat and have been with me for about 2 years for exemple.

Ph is abit unstable but randing from 7.9 - 8.2 pretty much. Have an airintake right above the tank pouring in fresh air

 

[Lavey29]

In reading through this thread you have totally covered all basis and I'm perplexed at your continued algae issues. I know you indicated your light intensity and par but have you tried decreasing intensity and duration for some weeks to see if that helps?

 

[m0jjen]

In reading through this thread you have totally covered all basis and I'm perplexed at your continued algae issues. I know you indicated your light intensity and par but have you tried decreasing intensity and duration for some weeks to see if that helps?

I have not. I really like the extent of a 12 hour period. Could decrease it abit and se

 

[Lavey29]

I have not. I really like the extent of a 12 hour period. Could decrease it abit and se

It just seems like you have all the other bases covered especially with the UV now. Maybe 10 hour and reduce intensity by 10 percent. Give it a 3 week test.

 

[Lavey29]

I run my radions for 10 hours at 38% intensity and corals are fine even my first SPS is doing well. My sand has steadily cleared up to. I also added a sand sifting starfish.

 

[m0jjen]

Im running a modified ab+ and 100% so its quite the difference there