Cap’s 30g tank thread

captan42

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First saltwater tank, documenting my progress. Tank had water added to it late May. Currently a FOWLR but will be adding corals once tank is established.

Here is the equipment.

30g breeder tank
Aqua clear 110 HoB filter, has the default style sponge, carbon bag and rock bag media.

200w heater

Jebao PP-4 powerhead

Fluval Sea marine spectrum led 32 watt 1350 lumens

30pds of reefsaver rock that was cured and wet from my local LFS

Caribsea 35 pds sandbed 1.5 inches deep

Recently installed M-50 HoB skimmer

Testers:

Refractometer

API PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate test kit. (Will get a better kit later)

Red Sea foundation test kit
Red Sea phosphate test kit

Current livestock:

2 oscellaris
5 blue leg hermit crabs
1 emerald crab
2 Nassarius snails
6 Nerite snail


Pics :

First day

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Added more rock a week or so later
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After tank cycle livestock additions

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Current pic
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So I added a HoB skimmer because I was having to do water changes every 3-4 days due to both heavy pollution (still figuring out the right amount to feed and definitely was overdoing it). As well as a co2 problem causing my PH to tank drastically. We’re talking a 8.0 Ph to 7.2 drop in a 24 hour period.

I have since lowered my water level so the filter creates more action on the top of the water as well as leaving the glass top open. Which seems to have solved the problem. Ph has been steady at 8.2-8.0 for a little over a week.

Even with the heavy pollution I am having a problem with 0 Nitrates and .04 phosphate. I think I have Dino’s. Can’t confirm with a microscope yet. These levels were before I added the skimmer which I am sure won’t help.

I had a GHA for a while but now it’s more a purple algae and only a very little. I assume it’s the Dino’s taking over?

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Hard to see the purple algae without a video sorry.
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Pics of the sandbed which I think might be Dino’s

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I just cleaned the glass less than 12 hours ago.
 
I know this will be asked so adding my test results and additional details.

I use RODI water and saltwater from my local LFS(less than a mile from my house)

This mornings test results.

Salinity 1.025. (LFS is 1.024) so I add a little saltwater in my top offs to get to this level and then use rodi.

PH 8.0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .04

I do a 5 gallon water change, last time this was done was Thursday. Skimmer has only been on the last 12 hours.
 
That’s a great looking tank so far and thanks for the pictures.

And also welcome to R2R!
 
Made my first video, kind of a overview of the whole tank.


Was trying to get a shot of the newest livestock addition which is a royal gramma but he is shy.

I also added a algae reactor which you will see towards the end of the video. This is in hopes it will out compete the other nuisance algae in the DT which you can see in the video. Tank was cleaned at the last WC Thursday of last week.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome, I am still very much a newbie to the SW world.
 
Updates and also looking for suggestions if anyone reads this.

Added an anemone RBTA, was just a little guy who after the first night went on a walkabout and wedged himself in a rock crevice under one of the frogspawns. I moved the frogspawn (still on a plug) to the sand area where it doesn’t look happy. After moving the frogspawn the anemone opened up a bit and the tips are just barely sticking out the crevice. He appears happy so leaving that well alone.

I also added a toadstool leather, it has barely opened in the 8-9 days I have had it and now there is a bit of cyano growing on its edges.

The frogspawn was moved to the sandbed and has not looked happy since.

The algae reactor had to be taken offline as the chaeto died and was covered in cyano. I will get a bigger piece and get it back online later.

So here is where I am asking for advise, first up I need to get a better light. I am running a FluvalSmart marine 3.0 and I don’t think it has enough par. It may be fine for now but I would like to add a few more corals and they may not thrive with what I have. I may create a new thread on this request in the lighting section.


Here is a whole tank shot, I could use some advise on where to permanently place my corals. There are the 2 toadstools, the single mushroom who hasn’t grown at all yet. My acan is on its own rock and doing well on the sandbed. Should I move the power head? Up the flow (usually running speed 3 out of 10). Add another power head?

Thanks

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I am no expert in any of these issues, but I can maybe help direct you.

Your tank is 36x18x12” I believe. That is pretty shallow for a long tank (I had one once) so I can see why you went with the long Fluval light. I would estimate the PAR at the surface only around 100-150 from the lumens and lux information I found. Again, just an estimate. That may be too little light for an anemone frankly, but in a shallow tank perhaps not. A PAR meter borrowed from an LFS or other reefer could confirm. Sounds like your Frogspawn was okay though in that light and he may just be getting used to the move. Did his flow change too one way or the other? I have a similar Toadstool Leather and have found he does like a lot of light. I have him under about 120 PAR now and he could take more. Maybe move him higher and see if he responds. The Mushroom and Acan should be fine. I think you can have corals with that light but may have some limitations.

The Cyanobacteria is not my expertise either, but it does seem flow is often a contributing factor as are nutrient levels.

For specific questions, you should start a new thread in the Lighting forum to get more eyes on it than in the build thread. There are likely a lot of threads already about Cyano issues to look through to.

 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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