Capt Billy's 300g Stony Reef

Captain Billy

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So it's been a long time since I posted on a forum, probably 5 years or more. I had hoped I would be able to return with an amazing tank and tons of killer photos, huge colonies and all kinds of goodness, starting a thread that everyone could enjoy. Instead I feel like a beginner starting a thread this way, but here it goes!

I feel like I've gotten stale, and hit a wall with this aquarium! Just relying on what's worked for me in the past when perhaps I should be implementing new techniques with this tank. After a decade of successful reef keeping, it's hard to swallow the pride but the time has come to bounce my problems off the immense knowledge of a forum.

I started the tank in March of 2013, and it did amazing until approximately August. At that point and time my problems started.

The first sign of something being wrong was an outbreak of neon green Cyanobacteria. So I start scratching my head, obviously something isn't right. I quickly figure out that I somehow had my two MP 60 vortechs set at the lowest speed, doh! Not sure how I missed that but I quickly turned them up as much as the sand bed could handle, which is one level below full speed. I did a bunch of water changes and through manual effort finally got it under control for the most part. The pumps being set incorrectly has been the only main issue I could find.

The main issues the tank is having all seem to be related:

Continual cyano, just enough to cover small areas of the sand daily and disappear every night. Some patches of green cyano still lingering after months of battling it. I can black the tank out for a couple days, knock it out and it's gone for a while, but usually reemerges within 2-3 weeks unless I keep up with the absurd water change schedule.

Coral growth, color and overall health just isn't where it should be, and has been noticeable off and on with some zoas and montiporas, and most recently acroporas. There has also been some recent STN and RTN on a couple acro colonies, no signs of any pests, which have always been carefully checked for and prevented. I've had experiences numerous times in the past with red bugs, AEFW's and the likes, I'm certain it isn't any predators. Thankfully most Acros and Montis are starting to look better, but it's still a battle.

So I'll get to the details of the tanks equipment.

Lighting:
6 Radion pros
3 kessil a360w's

Flow:
2 Vortech MP60
Reeflo Dart

Other equipment:
Aqua medic reef doser w/ BRS 2 part
RLSS R10 i Skimmer
Neptune Apex controller

I have quite a few cool fish, and have plenty more to add, some waiting in other systems but I have decided not to add any new fish until I have solved all the problems this tank is having.

So considering it's appears to be a nutrient import/export thing, I'm trying to decide how I want to approach it, using a system like Zeovit or setting up a biopellet reactor. I've never used either of these systems but I have a basic understanding of how they work....but I'm on the fence about which to implement. My NO3 and PO4 are both 0 on sailfert test kits but I just don't feel like the tank is running or calcifying correctly.

Most recently, I go back from a week long vacation and upon carefully inspecting my tank, I noticed a white dot on my Gem tangs face, near his nostril. Looking at it closely, I realized it was HLLE. None of the other tangs or angels have any signs of it besides him yet, but I knew there was a problem. I quickly took out my multimeter and discovered my heater was putting several volts into the tank. After unplugging it, I've gotten it down to around 1 volt or less, and that is coming from the lighting. If I unplug all the radions, it drops to 0. I've had lighting cause stray current before, but I wasn't expecting it from a $6000 LED lighting system.

Sorry for the boring start to my tank thread, I'll try to make up for it with a few photos.



ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401545424.069070.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401545612.015810.jpg
 
Oops, scratch what I said.
You might want to get your results double-checked. Also, neither of those should be 0.
 
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NO3 or PO4 shouldn't be 0? I'm not following you, all my systems run at 0 levels. I've always had all my systems run like this, as long as they were set up properly. I had around 2.5ppm NO3 in this tank for a little while, and after increasing the flow and upping my water change schedule, it has dropped to 0.
 
How precise of a test kit are you using? If it's API, the levels should be undetectable.
From what I've been reading, you want your PO4 at about .03 and I can't recall nitrate...the corals actually do need a little bit for nutritional purposes, apparently.
 
Bill are u still getting cyano? is it possible to tell us more about your levels of other parameters since you mentioned rtn or stn there have to be other things off
 
love the fish picture have the same fish and about same size beautyfull.
 
also what temperature do u keep your tank at and do u have a chiller
 
right there with ya and it's frustrating. 180g tank 1.5yrs old. no expense spared. cyano probs. hlle on my blue tang.
 
I use sailfert test kits, I've used them for close to 10 years and always had good results.

The parameters of the tank were fluctuating a little but I've since got everything stable for the last couple months. I had a problem with lingering low levels of NO3. I wasn't able to get my levels down to 0 with my 45g per week water change schedule, it was always between .02 and 1, sometimes a little higher. I increased the flow and changed the mode of my 2 MP60's from reefcrest to long pulse to get the water really circulating around the rocks. I also increased the water change schedule to 90g per week, way more than I felt was necessary. I've also cut back the feeding of the fish, but I never felt I was over feeding to begin with, I have been feeding reef fish for many years and have a good understanding of what's an appropriate amount. Never the less I wanted to eliminate all variables. Since I've gotten it to 0 I cut back on the water changes and it has remained at 0 but the cyano is slowly returning. PO4 has never been detectable in this system.

I believe some of the RTN was caused by a low alkalinity event, my auto doser tube came out of the alkalinity jug and was unnoticed for a few days. I've since stabilized the alkalinity at 8.5dkh. Calcium was also low recently but I've since raised and stabilized it at 420.

The tank runs at 80 degrees, I don't have a chiller. Just yesterday I discovered my via aqua 300w titanium heater was adding several volts to the system, I am replacing it now, thinking of two Ranco controllers with titanium elements...However in doing research it seems like it's still difficult to find a decent heater. It seems like most brands have regular failures.
 
No I have never had detectable phosphates so I have never ran any media to remove it. I have a big container of BRS GFO that I haven't even opened.
 
I know there will be a lot of disagreement here...but I had a lot of the same issues you're experiencing while I was using LEDs. As soon as I switched to T5's, the tank turned around almost immediately. I have now purchased MH and am in the process of switching over to that. LEDs can work....but I'm not smart enough to use them properly!

Just my $.02
 
That lime green cyano is the worst thing I've ever had to deal with. It's a pain and nothing like Red Slime Algae. I'm not sure if you can ever totally get rid of it, I haven't. It came into my tank from a frag I bought out of Ohio. Sucking it out in the middle of the light cycle when it is in full bloom (before it reproduces) is best way to eliminate most of it. This next statement is contrary to a normal remedy for cyano - I've found that running a very small amount of GFO keeps it mostly at bay. By your explanation I can tell that you've been very diligent with your maintenance because I've been there. That stuff would make a less diligent person tear their tank down and start over. Good luck, you have a beautiful tank.

Edit: I wrote this before I read the 3 previous posts.
 
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well food has phosphates, so something (cyano maybe) is feeding off them. I was testing at .06 using the hanna checker and still getting cyano so this bacteria is obviously super efficient at using them. I've been feeding a variety of food to try to combat the hlle in the hippo so maybe that accounts for some of it, but now I just have a fat hippo with hlle. I can say I went through the same deal with the alk event as you, the tubing came out for a few days and growth has been stunted for a while, more than a month actually until recent. I went the chemiclean route to save zoas that were getting smothered, stepped up the water changes.. about 30g/week, and only recently after changing my GFO am I seeing growth tips again.
 
NO3 or PO4 shouldn't be 0? I'm not following you, all my systems run at 0 levels. I've always had all my systems run like this, as long as they were set up properly. I had around 2.5ppm NO3 in this tank for a little while, and after increasing the flow and upping my water change schedule, it has dropped to 0.
Having PO4 and NO3 at low detectable levels is the newest rage. I personally dont put much stock into it since my levels read zero with salifert kits and have for eight years with great success.
 
I have had good success with the radions initially on this tank, as well as on other systems I have. I just have a hard time convincing myself that they are the problem. I'm open to suggestions are far as schedule, temperature and duration, but we will get into that later!

Mike, green cyano is indeed a hard thing to handle. I have been keeping reefs long enough that I was determined not to let it beat me, but it's required a ridiculous amount of work and had me considering carbon dosing.

As far as good for the fish, I feed 3 flake foods, OSI spirulina, Ocean Nutrition formula 1, and New Life Spectrum. I also feed all three types of TLF sea veggies and Ocean Nutrition Algae as well, red, green and brown. They also get PE mysis. I don't feed all this every day obviously, but the food gets rotated so they get a good variety.
 
Can't hurt to put the GFO to use. At least you'll know if it's phosphates in short order.
 
Sounds like you're doing most of this right.
I haven'[t heard of trouble with the radions as long as you are diligent in your corals' acclimation to them, and don't turn them up too high.
 
I use Zeovit products w/out Zeolite media or the reactor. No biopellets or phosphate reactor. I dose the coral snow, a.acids, & phols extra 2x per day (thats my peference) you can dose just once. I just had better luck dividing the daily dosage up into two seperate times. The best product I use from them is the Zeostart3, (.5ml in a.m. & .5 ml in p.m.)The highest my phosphate has been was today @ .06 (hanna) and thats b/c i fed real heavy w/ brine shrimp last nt. I dont have a huge bioload w/ just 5 fish.

125 gal tank
POV DC-1 R.O. skimmer
2 Triton 5 Deep Blue Return Pumps
Apex Controller
Tunze Auto Top Off
2 6095 Tunze PH
1 EcoTech MP40
2 Gen 2 Radions
 
I'll be following this thread...I've accidentally introduced the green cyano now, apparently >.<
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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