Carbon vs. No Carbon

This is one of those threads I didn’t see coming. I actually thought I had a good handle on using carbon... uuhhhh, yeah... nope. Everything I was doing was wrong lol. ...at least I was using it : )

Thanks for the thread!
 
Is it true that carbon causes HITH/HLLE ? I come from fresh where carbon is considered a major culprit of HITH for large cichlids (oscars primarily) and I am seeing it come up with tangs in salt. Any thoughts on this?

It is a still-viable hypothesis, but it is clearly not all types. Blame goes more to powders and non acid washed types like Marineland Black Diamond that cleaner types like ROX 0.8. How exactly it does that (if it does) and under what conditions (since it doesn't always) is not clear.
 
Is it true that carbon causes HITH/HLLE ? I come from fresh where carbon is considered a major culprit of HITH for large cichlids (oscars primarily) and I am seeing it come up with tangs in salt. Any thoughts on this?

Hard to say. I have always used a good quality GAC constrained within a cannister. I have had very little issue with HLLE over the years - when I have, it's usually in a new fish and nutrition has always fixed the problem. Probably there are multiple reasons for it. Positives of GAC outweigh the negatives IME; particularly if you are running an ATS.
 
I doubt it matters much ether way. I ran my reef for the first 35 or so years running carbon 24/7.

I stopped using it completely about 12 years ago and I don't notice anything different. My water is crystal clear, no yellowing, no smells and my corals are growing better than ever but that may be because for the last two years I use 100% NSW.

But I always believed carbon removed more good stuff than bad stuff and I also believe some metals are necessary.
 
Whenever I add carbon, it makes my soft corals not look as good. They all kind of wilt, I dunno if its something in the carbon or what. So for now Im not using any carbon.
 
Absorbers, GAC, GFO, polymers, etc are best used in a recipient used as a refuge, a filter. This way the removal rate can be managed and controlled and removing to much can easily be prevented as the user is able to manage the remocal rate. One may add as much reef safe absorbers as one want , taking in account the absorber will turn into a bio-filter after a period of time.
 
I use activated carbon in my drinking water but I would never use it in my reef. I did for 40 years but I stopped.

Quote:
Activated carbon filters are among the front-runners in the water filtration arena today. Perhaps that stems from their unique properties and ability to effectively remove up to 99% of total suspended solids (TSS), volatile organic compounds (VOCs), sediment, heavy metals, chlorine, chloramines, and a bunch of other contaminants that linger in drinking water.

I may not want those things or any things in my drinking water but a tank needs heavy metals, yes,including copper and zinc. You should not have or get chlorine or chloramines in your tank, especially if you use RO/DI. Sediments, could mean anything including gold dust to little pieces of dental floss or nose hairs.

Volatile organic compounds will be removed with a skimmer and I am not sure how your tank would get those either unless you wash your hands in your tank after you change your oil or gas filter. Some of it could be dissolved in anemone snot, but I am not sure. :rolleyes:

So after about 12 years of not using carbon, my corals are all smiling, spawning and my fish see that so they spawn. I think carbon is great for your home, not for your tank. It's your money so if you like it use it. :cool:

I realize as aquarists we seem to always be looking for a magic pill, elixir, powder, or liquid that will make our tanks healthier. But I feel in this case, the less we fool with the tank water, the better off we will be.
Just my opinion of course, but what do I know? :unsure:
 
Does anybody notice their magnesium levels drop more rapidly when using carbon? It was suggested to me and I’ve noticed it drop much more quickly than when I don’t run it.
 
I've used it 24/7 for 30+ years with no detrimental effects to fish or corals, currently running a heavily stocked reef with many fish and many varieties of corals.
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how long it lasts depends on many factors and what your expectations for it are. GAC works by binding organic molecules onto its surfaces (it has very high internal surface area). It gets depleted as the available binding sites become occupied. It can also get coated with a film of bacteria in a week or more, regardless of whether it is binding organic matter.

You can determine for yourself how often to replace it by observing the yellowness of the water (yellow means replace, use more, or have better flow through it).

I think changing it once every week or two is generally fine if it is not an emergency situation, like a dead fish known to release toxins.


Do you see any benefit to rinsing off the carbon in some fresh water to get rid of that bacterial film? I recently began doing that every week or so when I am topping off for the day.
 
I used GAC 24/7 and it is a useful way to reduce the yellowing of aquarium water, as well as removing organic toxins, and possibly even metals bound to organics (could be a pro or con).
there is something good that carbon absorb?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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