Catalytic carbon for chloramine

[Riphter]

Hello, I’ve been doing some ro/di improvements lately. My home runs around 1ppm chloramine on average and really high tds, somewhere around 600. I don’t usually add anything to target filter chloramine. Until now at least. My di resin usually just burns up quicker.

so my question is. If I’m running a standard carbon block and plan to continue doing so where in line do I put the new catalytic carbon? Before the carbon block is where I was thinking. That way if in the process of breaking down the chloramine it leaves some residual chlorine the carbon block will catch that. Otherwise the chlorine will make it to the membrane. This would also extend the life of the standard carbon block.

any thoughts?

 

[dbowman5]

my understanding is that the chloramine is removed by the carbon in an RODI system. how many gallons per day are you producing? How long do you hold the RODI prior to use? what is the TDS after your RODI. Are you using anything added to your Water?
I have a 75gpd BRS 4 stage system. I mix SW in a 32 gal barrel that i fill from a 32 gal RODI barrel. I also fill my ATO reservoirs from the RODI barrel.
When i need to refill my RODI barrel i start the RODI running into my Deep Sink. When i get 0-1TDS i transfer the output into the barrel and fill it with the power head running.when i overflow the barrel, I mean, when the barrel is almost full, i turn off the RODI and add Prime which helps ensure that all of the chlorine is eliminated and the RODI is ready for both SW and FW use. I do not use the water for a day or two, having filled all of the ATO's and FW tanks as i emptied the barrel. the time in the barrel with the powerhead running gives any remaining volatiles, like chlorine, ammonia, chloramine, CO, to gas off. if you produce a lot of water or need to use it immediately i can see adding a stage. i would look at the 5 and 6 stage systems available and see what arrangement they use for where to add your extra carbon step.

 

[Beardo]

Hello, I’ve been doing some ro/di improvements lately. My home runs around 1ppm chloramine on average and really high tds, somewhere around 600. I don’t usually add anything to target filter chloramine. Until now at least. My di resin usually just burns up quicker.

so my question is. If I’m running a standard carbon block and plan to continue doing so where in line do I put the new catalytic carbon? Before the carbon block is where I was thinking. That way if in the process of breaking down the chloramine it leaves some residual chlorine the carbon block will catch that. Otherwise the chlorine will make it to the membrane. This would also extend the life of the standard carbon block.

any thoughts?

When I was running catalytic carbon, I ran it before the standard carbon block. It worked well. Now I just run 2 of the BRS universal carbon blocks.

 

[Riphter]

I’m running a 6 stage 100gpd ro/di. I get 0 tds on the product water side. If I test the water before the di resin I get trace amounts of total chlorine and 0 free chlorine. Which means that the chloamine is making it past the carbon and membrane. Which is to be expected from what I read. Carbon can only adsorb the chlorine and not chloramine. The catalytic carbon breaks the chlorine/ammonia bond which then allows the carbon block to adsorb the two. I just finished installing the catalytic carbon (before the carbon block) and tested my water from every output. I’m now at 0 total chlorine. Even in the waste water. I am trying to avoid using a chemical means to remove chloramine. I’m also trying to extend the life of my membrane. I store my product water in a 10 gallon ato tank and take from that for water changes and then top it off.