Chaeto dieing off...

[cnidus]

So my algaebarn chaeto is turning white/clear and starting to break apart. Looking through threads here, sounds like it could be either flow, nutrients or perhaps iron?

I run a 100w cannagrow grow light 8pm > 4am (although i initially had it on 12hrs)

Tank is fairly new, ~4month old, with 3 fish, feeding 1/4 cube mysis and pinch of pellets daily.

My build thread is here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cnidus’-cube-build-w-reef.701915/#post-7332479

I'm measuring near zero nitrates and have a hanna phosphorous ULR on its way to check phosphates. I dont know if thats because there are no nutrient or if the chaeto is still consuming all of it. Also ordered the brightwell chaetogrow incase its an iron issue.

I used the skimmer chamber as my fuge.. it seems flow is reasonable, but not certain.

What am I doing wrong? What should i test / try?

 

[cnidus]

Here’s an overview of the Sump.

 

[jman930]

Likely not enough nutrients for it

 

[Pau Hana Reefer]

Two thoughts:
1) As @jman930 mentioned, very likely not enough nutrients. With the age of your tank and your bioload, chaeto is probably outpacing nutrient production. Perhaps remove some of the chaeto to see if that improves the situation?

2) I'm wondering if you're burning the chaeto. Scanning through the Amazon page, looks like they recommend that this light is hung at least 8" above the plant... and I'm assuming that's for marijuana plants (based on the marketing on that page) which require strong lights for best results. Hard to tell how close the lights are to your chaeto.

 

[splitting_lanes]

I agree with what both above said. Too much light, not enough nutrients.

I’d cut the lighting back even more, turn the brightness down if you can.

 

[cnidus]

I agree with what both above said. Too much light, not enough nutrients.

I’d cut the lighting back even more, turn the brightness down if you can.

Ok, how about 4hrs a night? (Ie half current photoperiod).

I trimmed it down a bit last night to remove all the dieing sections.

will also try raising the light. It’s about 5” off the water currently and the ball is about 6” submerged.

it seemed to grow well for the first week then this started happening, so I guess consuming the built up nutrients, then starving makes sense.

 

[splitting_lanes]

Ok, how about 4hrs a night? (Ie half current photoperiod).

I trimmed it down a bit last night to remove all the dieing sections.

will also try raising the light. It’s about 5” off the water currently and the ball is about 6” submerged.

it seemed to grow well for the first week then this started happening, so I guess consuming the built up nutrients, then starving makes sense.

Sounds like a good plan of action. keep in mind, you may not see positive results for weeks. Natural changes in chemistry and nutrient export occur slowly.

Btw, I was thinking 6 hrs, but I actually run my chaeto light on a ramp that maxes at 50% (of a 15w light) for 4.5 hrs

edit: added the btw

 

[RM24]

Try adding some chaetogro and neophos and it should help.

 

[cnidus]

I had a quick look this morning and there appears to be lot less dead areas compared to yesterday. (I trimmed off most of the dead area yesterday).

the white/mushy areas were mostly on the top, where the light would have been most intense.

chaetogro is on the way, so will dose that also and continue to monitor.

only snag is now with the light higher, there’s a lot of light spillage, so will need to make some panels to block it.

 

[NS Mike D]

if you have zero. nutrients, why are you trying to grow cheato.


zero nitrates (if you are using a reliable test kit) is putting your tank at high risk of a dino invasion = disaster.

This hobby tends to put the proverbial cart in front of the horse when it comes to lowering nutrients. Filtration has so efficient we see dinos taking down left and right and dosing back nitrates and phosphates as a common practice.

IMO, when it comes to the fear of algae, too much focus is on reducing nutrients and not enough on promoting the microfuana that naturally creates barriers for algae to take hold, especially since me now use dry rock as the standard.

the reduce lighting schedule is good.

What were your NO3 and PO4 prior to adding cheato? If your skimmer, socks etc are handling NO3 and PO4, then why not turn the sump fuge into a bacteria fuge, using marine pure or rubble rock, that will also become the home for the filter feeders?

I say this as a reefer who has two fuges with cheato.

 

[cnidus]

if you have zero. nutrients, why are you trying to grow cheato.


zero nitrates (if you are using a reliable test kit) is putting your tank at high risk of a dino invasion = disaster.

This hobby tends to put the proverbial cart in front of the horse when it comes to lowering nutrients. Filtration has so efficient we see dinos taking down left and right and dosing back nitrates and phosphates as a common practice.

IMO, when it comes to the fear of algae, too much focus is on reducing nutrients and not enough on promoting the microfuana that naturally creates barriers for algae to take hold, especially since me now use dry rock as the standard.

the reduce lighting schedule is good.

What were your NO3 and PO4 prior to adding cheato? If your skimmer, socks etc are handling NO3 and PO4, then why not turn the sump fuge into a bacteria fuge, using marine pure or rubble rock, that will also become the home for the filter feeders?

I say this as a reefer who has two fuges with cheato.

Entirely possible I jumped the gun getting the fuge setup. Nitrates were 10ppm and don’t have a test for PO4 (meter is in the mail). My intent with this setup was for the fuge to be my primary nutrient export. I have a sock and ceramic media also, but no skimmer.