Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers

I'm curious with a turf scrubber if it releases spores or micro algae into the tank.
I don't believe algae scrubbers grow micro algae. My algae scrubber grows ulva (Enteromorpha). It appeared naturally (unseeded)
I can't be sure which type exactly.
But it doesn't spread to the display, if that's what your thinking. The display algae disappeared a short while after the scrubber matured.
I sometimes put the scrubber's screen into the display so the fish can eat the ulva. The algae still doesn't take up in the display.

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You'd need to grow them in the same water for the same amount of time, then total the N and P in each of them.

The weight percentage N and P in the algae itself is not really very important as a measure of their ability to remove N and P from the water.

In that case, we will never be able to pin point which one is the best. Too bad!. Thanks Randy.
 
Definitely interested to see which is more efficient.

With constant argument we are seeing on forums, I don't think we have the definitive answer for that question. Those that grows faster, denser and heavier is more effective at this moment.
 
With constant argument we are seeing on forums, I don't think we have the definitive answer for that question. Those that grows faster, denser and heavier is more effective at this moment.
Yes I can see this being one of those age long lighting or sandbed debates. Deep sand vs shallow sand vs no sand. MH vs T5 vs LED. I feel that any of them will work if done properly. Yet that doesn't mean any of them will work for your tank (if that makes sense). But it will be nice to get as many facts about each method out on the table. This way we can make better decisions on which we FEEL might be best for our system.
 
Yes I can see this being one of those age long lighting or sandbed debates. Deep sand vs shallow sand vs no sand. MH vs T5 vs LED. I feel that any of them will work if done properly. Yet that doesn't mean any of them will work for your tank (if that makes sense). But it will be nice to get as many facts about each method out on the table. This way we can make better decisions on which we FEEL might be best for our system.

Exactly and too bad it only takes one post to drag a very good discussion into the garbage bin.
 
Exactly and too bad it only takes one post to drag a very good discussion into the garbage bin.
Well I wouldn't necessarily say it will go to a garbage bin. A lot of the biggest threads on forums have a lot of wasted information in between some good information and you have to dig through all of the bickering between people to find it LOL. But that does not take away the fact that there could still be some good information found. As much as I understand exactly what you're saying brother I'm going to stick around quietly and see what has to be said about this one [emoji6]
 
Well I wouldn't necessarily say it will go to a garbage bin. A lot of the biggest threads on forums have a lot of wasted information in between some good information and you have to dig through all of the bickering between people to find it LOL. But that does not take away the fact that there could still be some good information found. As much as I understand exactly what you're saying brother I'm going to stick around quietly and see what has to be said about this

Hopefully we will get the answer (which one is better and not the best) soon :D. HOPEFULLY this won't be a hundred pages of never ending cycle of disagreement :)
 
I'm glad yours is working out. How "small" is your fuge that you are pumping 1500 gallons per hours through it?

My H380 was 4 inches away from the cheato, it was hard to keep it from bleaching and I don't want to go in and flip cheato every few days - I barely want to change filter socks every few days.

My cheato grows fine being lite from the top only. I don't have the space to light it from the sides.
10.5 x 15.5

My pumps are rated at 1,700 gph total, I think I said 1,500 gph before but w head pressure and elbows let's assume 30% loss (I don't have an FMM system yet).

So...realistically 1190.

One problem I absolutely do have is light spillage growing algae inside my skimmer....which is impressive considering how much ozone I have in there....and also in my return section.

I have a section of soft plumbing between the actual pumps and the hard plumbed return lines so I can move the pumps around on the fly and one of them has visible algae inside the return line and I can definitely tell it's reducing flow....so 1,000gph is probably more honest.
 
Coke can for scale
Flipping cheato with a pair of tongs is way quicker than taking out a sock. I mean we are talking 10 seconds of your time.

I was growing cheato just perfectly fine in my fuge with a cheap simple bulb from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CH75SGY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but algae in the display was still growing a bit due to my heavy feeding. Threw it all to tumble in a small 20 gal breeder to keep it alive while I test out the ATS for a few months.

Agreed that pushing 1500gph is not a "small" fuge by any means....
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I don't believe algae scrubbers grow micro algae. My algae scrubber grows ulva (Enteromorpha). It appeared naturally (unseeded)
I can't be sure which type exactly.
But it doesn't spread to the display, if that's what your thinking. The display algae disappeared a short while after the scrubber matured.
I sometimes put the scrubber's screen into the display so the fish can eat the ulva. The algae still doesn't take up in the display.

upload_2017-10-23_15-29-49-png.600358

Are you sure that's a species of Ulva? I was under the impression that Ulva was a macro algae and was the lettuce type of algae that didn't adhere to surfaces?

Unless you have a different species than the lettuce type.
 
Are you sure that's a species of Ulva? I was under the impression that Ulva was a macro algae and was the lettuce type of algae that didn't adhere to surfaces?

Unless you have a different species than the lettuce type.
Yes, ulva is a macro & I've obviously got macro growing on my scrubber screen. There are lots of variants of ulva (Enteromorpha) not just the large leaf type.

Mine could be Ulva intestinalis
 
When algae grows, what happen to the nitrate and phosphate being absorbed?. If nitrate and phosphate content can be measured from the algae, somebody should conduct a study which one contains more, weight to weight comparison. At least we know which one is better scientifically. End of argument!

A little playing about on google suggests it isn't that simple and that the argument is ongoing. Flow, lighting, temperature, nutrient concentrations, other limiting nutrients, and general water chemistry all seem to alter the NP ratio of (macro) algae according to the literature I found. One study I skimmed through even suggested that in some cases the only change from a different NP ratio was a different growth pattern and this did not necessarily mean slower growth, and nutrient uptake.

For the hobby this suggests that this is going to be another case of 'what works for you might not work for me unless our systems are completely equal', and since this isn't the case...
 
A little playing about on google suggests it isn't that simple and that the argument is ongoing. Flow, lighting, temperature, nutrient concentrations, other limiting nutrients, and general water chemistry all seem to alter the NP ratio of (macro) algae according to the literature I found. One study I skimmed through even suggested that in some cases the only change from a different NP ratio was a different growth pattern and this did not necessarily mean slower growth, and nutrient uptake.

For the hobby this suggests that this is going to be another case of 'what works for you might not work for me unless our systems are completely equal', and since this isn't the case...

For the same reasons you mentioned above, I am leaning towards bacteria for nutrients uptake and a small amount of macro algae for additional boost. So far it works very efficient and both method compliments each other very well.
 
For the same reasons you mentioned above, I am leaning towards bacteria for nutrients uptake and a small amount of macro algae for additional boost. So far it works very efficient and both method compliments each other very well.
What do you mean by your leaning towards bacteria? Carbon dosing?
 
What do you mean by your leaning towards bacteria? Carbon dosing?

Yes, carbon dosing in confined bacteria tower (white thingy in the sump). I also have an algae through in the canopy, with dragon breath and hair algae growing in it. Both works fine for my mixed reef

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Yes, carbon dosing in confined bacteria tower (white thingy in the sump). I also have an algae through in the canopy, with dragon breath and hair algae growing in it. Both works fine for my mixed reef

Sight_2017_10_26_212401_298.jpg


WP_20171020_18_16_48_Pro.jpg


WP_20171022_16_47_06_Pro.jpg


WP_20171022_10_14_13_Pro.jpg
I've never heard of a bacteria tower....
Can you please share a link or tell me more?
 
I've never heard of a bacteria tower....
Can you please share a link or tell me more?

I have a thread on DIY section, look for Donovan's Nitrate Destroyer, a poor man reactor. It seems like a lot reefers don't like bacteria for nutrient control. I really wonder why...
 

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