Change from ATI T5 to....what????

  • Thread starter Thread starter luke33
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
I 100% agree! I am also running the Spectra and it's a work of art. I love the combo of T5 and MH.... just turn it on and let the magic happen. On LED fixtures, I personally get caught up in always changing my LED settings; spectrum, intensity, schedule and so on... always looking for that "perfect" setting. I probably end up doing more harm than good.
Not fiddling with spectrum on LEDs is almost impossible for me. When I set my Gen4s up I loaded the Coral Lab "Radiant" program and haven't touched yet. Daily battle not to lol. With the Spectra I find its hard to improve on the look of Radium. As you said "turn it on and let the magic happen".
 
Awesome tank! I don't think you should have much trouble going to LED. I personally would do 4 36" RB photons with 24" deep.

I guess it's 32" fixture so 4 of those. Especially coming from t5 I like a lot of coverage.

That would be a lot of light but I bet you are correct on the full coverage. Not sure how I'd hang them as I have a light stand made out of 80/20 aluminum so could be tough to hang 4.
 
You'll have to figure your aproximate par at the top of the tank.
But I went from halide to led then to the sb.

I set the intensity on the sb with the lux meter got it dialed in, set the ramping program etc and Let it go for a mont or so.
The acros colored up an got good growth and made this reefer very happy.

Was on r2r and someone asked my settings/schedule and I checked them. I had messed up and set the intensity to half or a quarter of what I wanted and should have been.

Jus sayin.
I have acros and sps and a clam and zoas at the bottom of the tank now 18 in deep with the light 13 in above the tank at a 60% even peak for six hours on a 14 hr period including blue only.

Good to hear. It's tough to beat the sb light prices for the amount of coverage your getting. I always try to keep par consistent if I move from one tank to another. What kind of coverage are you getting?
 
Good to hear. It's tough to beat the sb light prices for the amount of coverage your getting. I always try to keep par consistent if I move from one tank to another. What kind of coverage are you getting?
Right now with the 16in model it covers a 20x 20 square pretty well at just under 14in.

I had It lower with most of the lenses pulled and liked it better but messed with it cuz. I'm a reefer eh ?
Tank is 18 deep btw where the one year old clam is.
 
Haha! I just got rid of my 2 g3 with RMS mounts and reef link for photon v2's!
Man, the LED thing is just crazy. I almost miss the old days when I didn't have so many options and stuck with URI VHOs. They certainly looked great ;]
 
I just transferred all of my sps from my 180g down to a 80g rimless. The lighting went from 8x80w ATI(which was great) to full LED. Basically v2's before reefbreeders makes some changes and I have had zero issues. I just matched the par (450)and bam.
6377a6e78bc0d5d5c9917a61bfed2713.jpg
 
I just transferred all of my sps from my 180g down to a 80g rimless. The lighting went from 8x80w ATI(which was great) to full LED. Basically v2's before reefbreeders makes some changes and I have had zero issues. I just matched the par (450)and bam.
6377a6e78bc0d5d5c9917a61bfed2713.jpg

Looks nice. Are you just running one or two fixtures? How long since the move? Thanks for the reply.
 
Looks nice. Are you just running one or two fixtures? How long since the move? Thanks for the reply.
It has a 32" and 48". I could get away with just the 48 but couldn't get fixture high enough without hanging from the ceiling. I didn't move it all at once but 1/4 of it has been in there a month and a half. All of it has been in there for at least 2 weeks. The tank was also only a week old when I started transferring. Polyped out since day one.
30ad27fbf9c3f8de30d6304ca4f7dc80.jpg
b9e490467dfb58ceaf678b13ae2e6513.jpg
3a97acb74f6c47664e86d3a976b2220a.jpg
 
Right now with the 16in model it covers a 20x 20 square pretty well at just under 14in.

I had It lower with most of the lenses pulled and liked it better but messed with it cuz. I'm a reefer eh ?
Tank is 18 deep btw where the one year old clam is.

Hi,
That's quite interesting, from light and cost point of view...
Can you share more info about your setup?
 
Geisemann spectra being delivered this week hopefully, I will need to be careful with the leds to start but changing from an 8 tube Pacific sun hybid so T5s will be fine.
 
Hi,
That's quite interesting, from light and cost point of view...
Can you share more info about your setup?
Fairly strait forward really.

A 16x 8 sbreeflight led fixture on a 20x 20 square.
60 and 90 degree lenses focus the beams and add some intensity. Set over a marked out space (think flashlight) as you raise the fixture it fills more of the square. So we comprentase with the dimmer.

Removing all of the lenses the bare leds have a 180 (little less actually) spread. (Think t5), but you do lose the intensity provided by the lenses. So again we compensate with the dimmer.
So you can put it closer but run a higher percentage on the dimmer.
 
Geisemann spectra being delivered this week hopefully, I will need to be careful with the leds to start but changing from an 8 tube Pacific sun hybid so T5s will be fine.
If you use a lux meter. Devide the t5 Lux intensity by 40 and the led intensity by 60 to gauge par.

To make it easy, I think if your led Lux intensity does not exceed you t5 intensity you'll be fine. A simple ramp up to the t5 intensity should be just fine. Then your t5 is the peak photoperiod ad the led is mainly astetic and then truly supplemental to the t5.

I used a current orbit marine led and ati t5s and retrofit kit exactly this way.
 
On another note I am being told my ATI ballasts are going bad because i'm running two led tube's..........never heard that one before.

I'd be curious to see if anyone else is having this issue running E5's or biotech led tube's in their fixtures.
 
Fairly strait forward really.

A 16x 8 sbreeflight led fixture on a 20x 20 square.
60 and 90 degree lenses focus the beams and add some intensity. Set over a marked out space (think flashlight) as you raise the fixture it fills more of the square. So we comprentase with the dimmer.

Removing all of the lenses the bare leds have a 180 (little less actually) spread. (Think t5), but you do lose the intensity provided by the lenses. So again we compensate with the dimmer.
So you can put it closer but run a higher percentage on the dimmer.

Got you. Thks!
Just need to find where to buy SB Reef Light for Europe...
 
On another note I am being told my ATI ballasts are going bad because i'm running two led tube's..........never heard that one before.

I'd be curious to see if anyone else is having this issue running E5's or biotech led tube's in their fixtures.

English person here, not if it was the same with you but lots of people over here tried the "led tubes" and failed, I read loads and seemed like the ballasts had to be of a certain age to run them.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top