Cheap and easy ATO

[sirevans reef]

Hey guys... So for about $35.00 or less you can have a nice ATO system.(I splurged on the 6 gal. aquatainer. Thats what drove my cost up:xd

You will need-

10 foot extension cord- dollar store $2.00(not the round kind but the kind with the grove down the center to separate both sides.)
candle and candle holder-dollar store $2.00
razor blade or wire stripers
aqua lifter pump- lfs $16.00
tubing- walmart 24' $3.00
2xLiquid Water Level Sensor Horizontal Float switch-ebay $4.00
5 gal bucket-Lowe's $2.50 or 6 gal aquatainer- $7.00 walmart
thin 5-6 inch wide x 10-14 inch long piece of acrylic - Lowes or HD free if they have some left over, which is normal or $6-7 for a small sheet.

Ok so first find a place in your sump or overflow box that you can place float switches and the acrylic hanger.(about five or six inches wide space). Now run your extension cord from your plug in to about where your acrylic holder will be and mark it. Unplug it and pull it out. Now take your piece of acrylic and drill two holes about 3/4 of an inch from the bottom side by side. Now light candle and pass acrylic slowly over it back and forth where you want to bend it.

(About inch and a half from holes) You will feel it start to bend with just a little presser,bend to L shape. Black stuff will wipe off with ease. Now run the float switch though the hole you drilled and tighten in down.(repeat for other hole as well.) Now take this over to your sump/overflow box and find you where you want the floats to be. Once you have done that mark the top of the acrylic where you will have to bend it and take it back to the candle and bend it. Now back to the sump and mark once more where you have to bend again to make a U shape so it will hang on.Should look about like this.

Now take your razor blade and run it down the middle as not to cut into either wire. About three inches on both sides of your mark.So about 5-6 total. Now cut one side and strip it back enough to splice in and soldier the leads from the float switch together. Splice and soldier together and rap with electrical tape.(repeat with other side)Now give it a quick test pug a light in on one in and plug it in. Flip it up light off, flip it down light on. Good now that it works find a spot to hang or place your aqua lifter pump and do so.Now take your tubing and run the intake to you ro/di top off container and the other to your sump. Plug pump into extension cord and run the extension cord to the wall and ENJOY!:roll:

 

[sirevans reef]

 

[ruppertb]

Are the 2 floats meant as a safety, like both have to be up for it to add water. Or is one lower and one is the add water level and other is the stop?

 

[sirevans reef]

They are meant to be a safety. The first time I did this I only used one and after about 4 days it got stuck in the on position. So the second time I used two and I have had no problems for about 3 months now.

 

[Chameleon]

I really like your diys...the trashcans and this...its great!

 

[sirevans reef]

I really like your diys...the trashcans and this...its great!

Thanks! Just trying to save a little money and keep a happy reef and wife!:xd:

 

[Jake1]

I can't see your 2nd and 3rd pic

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

Good stuff man! Keep it coming!

 

[jjphere]

I believe those switches are designed for low voltage. I would be very concern running 110V DC in your sump. AC voltage and saltwater don't exactly mix. That's why ATO kits use relays to turn the pump or power outlet on and off. Good luck with your set-up tough!

 

[btkrausen]

I agree. If the water gets above those float switches wouldn't you have 110v going through the sump.

 

[sirevans reef]

I agree. If the water gets above those float switches wouldn't you have 110v going through the sump.

You know I don't know. The only time water gets above the floats is when I do water changes. I have all pumps and float switches on one 12 port grounded power strip. So I would think if it were shorting out they would stay shorted and not work at all,right?:sad: They are filled with silicone and supposed to be water tight. Well any way I will over fill it and test with multimeter and get back to you. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[btkrausen]

Cool, I'm not complanining, its a good idea, just wanted to give you a heads up

I'd at least put heat shrink tubing around the connections to help keep water out. Not saying that'll make it fool proof, but it should help.

 

[ruppertb]

So did you test to see if it leaks voltage into your sump?

 

[sirevans reef]

Yes I did. Sorry it took so long but I finally got it done last night and I am very happy to report there is NO voltage in my sump or any where in my tank for that fact!!!! I placed both float switch's under water and nothing. Then I held them under and pressed down on them as if they got stuck in the on position and still NO voltage. Then I sank them with a piece of live rock for 3 hours as to simulate if the switch's failed and filled my sump with ro/di water and flowed over the top and still no voltage. Maybe if where I solider the two wires together got into the tank somehow I might have a problem, but the leads are really long and I have rapped them in electric tape and securely fastened to my tank stand. So after all my testing and dunking the float switch's under water they are both still going strong. So I have to say I am happy to use this method and I saved about $70- $100 in the process!:bounce:

 

[cdness]

you can make a slight modification to this and add a 12V relay so only the 12V hits the water and the relay controls the 110V. Much safer in my opinion, but these ATOs have been sold like this as a kit for a long time.

 

[sirevans reef]

you can make a slight modification to this and add a 12V relay so only the 12V hits the water and the relay controls the 110V. Much safer in my opinion, but these ATOs have been sold like this as a kit for a long time.

That is not a bad idea at all.

 

[Fatman]

The switches I have seen will handle 110 VAC, however I believe it's safer to run them at 9-12 VDC through a relay (radio shack) and the lower voltage makes the switch last a lot longer.