Cheaper salt for curing live rock?

[Tham121988]

I'm currently working on a new build and just got in my reef saver rock. I'm going to "cure" or "breaking" the new rock for a couple of weeks in saltwater with a heater. Before I switched to coral pro salt, I used Oceanic Sea Salt Mix. Would I be okay during the curing process to use this cheaper salt? Or should I start with the coral pro? I plan on just using the oceanic during the curing process. Once it's done, i'll do a 100% water change and add in the coral pro salt water mix. And idea if this is ok?

 

[Brad Bessett]

I see no reason to cure live rock with expensive salt. Are you planning on seeding it with bacteria?

 

[Coastie Reefer]

If you're just "curing" as in letting stuff leach out of the rocks, and let organics waste away... you can do that with regular rodi water. No salt needed.

 

[HiddenUser]

Instant Ocean off Amazon.

 

[aaron23]

agree with posters above no need to cure rock with saltwater

 

[Tham121988]

Thank you everyone for the replies. I plan on "washing/curing" to get that biofilm on it like the BRS series stated. I'm going to then use some sump live rock to seed it.

 

[Coastie Reefer]

The BRS reef saver rock is pretty clean as it's dug out of the ground. I usually just rinse it well with a water hose getting in all the nooks and crannies as best I can. Then I put it in the tank, fill with saltwater, then start the cycle. I use plain ole Instant Ocean salt and haven't had a single issue.

 

[Tham121988]

I believe it was more of a reason due to it being white and needing to create that biofilm to keep algae away. Any issues with algae.

 

[Coastie Reefer]

I'm not sure what you mean by biofilm to keep algae away. White rock will turn green over time, just a couple months. After it's been in a tank it will start to grow coralline algae and turn more pink/purple. The first month or so you're waiting on the Nitrogen cycle to complete. This is the time it takes nitrifying bacteria to build a sufficient population in the tank to convert ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrate. New tanks almost always have some algae issues, unless you're really on top of water changes, run filter media like carbon and gfo, and make sure to not overfeed. If you take it slow, and keep to a maintenance schedule you may not have problems with algae. If you do, it's not the end of the world, it's just part of the game.

 

[aaron23]

what is this biofilm you speak of? Have a link?

 

[Tham121988]

Around 16 minutes it starts talking about reef saver rock and the biofilm.

 

[danschoenherr]

Can you use water from water changes from another established tank to "cure" rock for another tank?
I will be running an acid bath for some older dry rock and then want to put it in a tub with a powerhead for a month or so until I am ready to set up the new tank.

 

[aaron23]

Can you use water from water changes from another established tank to "cure" rock for another tank?
I will be running an acid bath for some older dry rock and then want to put it in a tub with a powerhead for a month or so until I am ready to set up the new tank.

Water changes with tank water will help cure the rock. All you're trying to do while curing is to remove all of the dead decayed matter off and out of the rock. Using tank water helps to remove the dead matter from the water but does not speed up the curing process versus using RO water.

 

[XyPP]

From what I gather, a soaking in water will do little to nothing to get rid of Phosphates that have bound to the surface of the dry rock.
If you put that rock into your tank, it may leach Phosphates into your system for 1-2 years.

The proper way to do it, is to first wash the rock with bleach/water to dissolve organic matter. Rinse the rock with clean water to get rid of all bleach residual.
Finally a soak in some Muriatic Acid/water for about 30min. The acid bath will dissolve the surface layer that the contaminates are bound to. Pour in a box of baking soda to neutralize the acid, and remove the rocks.
Give them a good washing, and they are ready to go.

 

[Reef'nOkla]

Bio film= those kids thru teen 8mm

 

[aaron23]

Around 16 minutes it starts talking about reef saver rock and the biofilm.

His preferred method of curing rock is to use acid to remove the decayed matter. He says to continue the rock cycle in saltwater/heater so the rocks develop a biofilm.
At this point i'm assuming he doses a bacteria additive to reduce the unwanted green algae which assists in the cycling process

 

[spllbnd2]

IMO I would start like this, bleach first up to 24 hrs if your rock has a lot of organics in/on it. The bleach will help remove the organics. I like to then rinse them off with tap water (no biggie on using public water with trace elements) because after the fresh rinse it gets an acid dip removing the the outer layer of the rock ridding yourself of calcium carbonate but mainly removing phosphates.
Then I rinse with ro/di water really well and put the rock in saltwater with pumps and heater. Use phosfree to bond to the phosphates. Use a capful 2 times a week. Then check with a hanna tester once a week. Some people use filters to rid the tub of particulates/snow or you can do water changes. My ratios of bleach was 7:1, my ratio of muratic acid was 10:1. Remember after your done with the acid to render it safe/neutral with sodium bicarbonate or arm and hammer baking soda. It takes a lot of baking soda and it foams up when you put it the acid in the tub, when it no longer foams when you add it then the acid is neutral.

Cheers,
Alex

 

[spllbnd2]

This will help with any po4 issues that could rear up later due to BRS rock having issues with po4, do a quick search and you'll be able to read about this.

After the above, I usually finish up with seeding the rock while curing in saltwater. Salt mix is usually IO as it is relatively inexpensive.

 

[NanaReefer]

This will help with any po4 issues that could rear up later due to BRS rock having issues with po4, do a quick search and you'll be able to read about this.

After the above, I usually finish up with seeding the rock while curing in saltwater. Salt mix is usually IO as it is relatively inexpensive.

I've used BRS Dry Pukani and Reef Saver for the past 7yrs. Most recent Reef Saver for the past 2 plus years. Zero PO4 issues. Go figure [emoji848]

 

[Tham121988]

Thanks for all the helpful information. I plan to take my time on this build. This rock looks pretty cool!