Check values stammering. Sump overflow. UGENT!!

Here's another...

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I apply the sealant on the male part, wait for it to dry, and then twist it in?
 
@Miami Reef

I understand your frustration. Early in my hobby experience, I ran into many difficulties. And like you, I was ready to throw in the towel. I kept downsizing until I was down to a single, 15 gallon tank.

But then I got a second wind, and suddenly, I'm in the hobby for 20 years.

Unfortunately, when we design systems, we are committed to that design. Rarely can any changes be made.

You've made your design choices, and I think you should stay committed to those choices, since your system is up and established.

Replace the check valves and be done with it.

But I would suggest that you select check valves that can be disassembled and cleaned.

Dom
 
You've made your design choices, and I think you should stay committed to those choices, since your system is up and established.

Replace the check valves and be done with it.
I agree with you for the most part. I am replacing the check valves.

However, I can still make positive changes to the current system by creating a siphon break. I learned that with a proper siphon break, my sump can handle the excess water from the returns.

I will still use the check valves since the unions were already glued. Check valves won’t harm anything. It’s just that ONLY relying on check valves isn’t very smart because they can fail (which they already did for me).

I can easily add a siphon break, and I already ordered the parts needed from BRS.
 
I apply the sealant on the male part, wait for it to dry, and then twist it in?
No. You should be using non hardening PTFE paste. It goes on the male fitting, never female.

While people can post regurgitated boilerplate found on the internet that partly makes sense, there should be some sanity added to it. Teflon tape is perfectly suitable for PVC pipe that has quality machined threads. A wrap or two and hand tight will make a perfect seal with no danger of splitting the female fitting. NPT pipe threads are tapered, as you tighten them they ALL wedge into each other. Poorly made fittings don’t match well and the number of turns to create a seal adds too much pressure, the tape can make it worse. The problem with tape is that it adds both diameter and lubricity, allowing one to easily over tighten the joint and split the female fitting.

The bigger problem is that most big box store PVC fittings are injection molded garbage with poorly formed threads that don’t match well and people pile on wraps of tape and turns with a wrench to try to get leaks to stop.

With very poorly matched threads, sometimes a single wrap or two of tape and PTFE paste are needed to get a leak free seal with a minimum number of turns.

Rectorseal T2 is a quality PTFE paste.
 
I just thought of a thread I saw a while back where someone had a return line that had somesort of a siphon break device mounted at the waters surface. It looked clumbersum, but was supposed to work.
Had somesort of valve assembly.
I can't remember where I saw this.
Melevsreef?
 
I apply the sealant on the male part, wait for it to dry, and then twist it in?
Personally, if the pipe connection isn't over a dry space, I don't use any sealant. A tiny drip here and there will just fall into the tank.
 
While people can post regurgitated boilerplate found on the internet that partly makes sense,
Zero boilerplate, just industry standards from those who make and use the products daily. I think that trumps your petty insults.
 

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