Cheeto dying while nutrient levels increasing.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Merv49
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
Merv49 - I'm sorry to hear you're having problems with your chaeto. I too had some issue over the past year and it took me some time to figure it out for my system, but not it's growing like crazy now. Here some basic information on my system and what I think solved my issue. I hope this helps!

- My refugium is part of my sump in does around 10x turn over so that's about 1,500 gallons per hour. I don't think there is a right answer on the amount of flow after reading hours and hours of posts on the topic. What I can say is a higher flow will work fine. If you read up on the Triton Method, which heavily relies on a macro algae filter, you will see they suggest 10x turnover through the refugium.

- My sump is a Triton design to better ensure the water will flow through the chaeto. Meaning, the overflow drains into the refugium and the water must travel over the baffle to leave the refugium chamber (not under). It's possible that if the water drains under the baffle and your chaeto is floating, some/most of the nutrients could bypass the chaeto. I'm wondering what your baffle design looks like?

- I use the H380 on a 12 hour cycle about 8-9 inches above the water. I choose this height to make sure the light would hit each side of the refugium at the water surface to get maximum coverage and intensity. I hear the chaeto will adapt to the light like corals so as some suggested, you could try different heights to see if that makes a difference.

- Trace elements are needed for health growing macroalgae including chaeto. I believe this was the key to getting mine to grow. What type of salt do you use? If your salt isn't replacing the right trace elements as Randy pointed out then you will need to dose them separately. Your ICP test results could help.

- GHA covered my chaeto during two attempts to grow it. I think it grows easier/faster and has fewer requirements on trace elements so it can easily overtake macroalgae. The second time I tried to get it going, I would spend time each week pulling out the GHA so it would not chock out the chaeto. With some persistence, the GHA eventually died back and the chaeto took off. Sometimes I think you need to help it out compete the GHA.

- Regarding the types of chaeto. I'm not expert, but I have 4 different types now. One is really thick, another is super thin like wire, one of the types grows in a tight mat like a brillo pad and another type seems to grow in long lines with no kinks. I will say all of it is durable and does not break up into smaller pieces when it's healthy.

- As mentioned, the full Zeovit Method is built around a bacteria filter system to achieve ULNS. While you might be OK for now if you have high nitrates, and phosphastes, it will likly out compete the chaeto so I would keep an eye on it. For what it's worth, I have undetectable nitrates, and phosphates now so I removed the ATS and GFO. Still zero/zero so I'm planning to reduce my light cycle and add more fish.

I hope this provides you with some thoughts on where you need to check and where you can skip... I feel your pain, I gave up for a while and went to an ATS out of frustration. After doing more research on the trace elements I gave it another try and BOOM, it took off.

Good luck!
 
I’m having a terrible time with my tank all of a sudden. My nutrient levels are increasing and my Cheeto is dying/rotting in my sump. I started my tank (200 gl) in July and for the first six months I had zero GHA in my tank or sump. I was using a GFO&Carbon reactor along with a UV sterilizer. Then about the seventh month my nutrient levels began to increase and I decided to switch to zeovit. Well, since then nothing I do seems to bring down my phosphate levels or my nitrates despite four 50 gallon water changes in the past six weeks. All the chaeto in my sump had GHA growing all through it and it was rotting. I removed all of it and did another water change. Now I ordered $70 worth of chaeto and it began to rot also. I bought this chaeto online and when I got it I didn’t think it was actually chaeto because the texture was all wrong. The stuff I got was very fine, straight threads and very soft. I was told that my water quality had to be within reef parameters for it to survive. ( nitrates 1-5 and phosphate.018. Needless to say i’m at my wits end with all this.
My fish, clams, cleanup crews are all fine. Only two of over 60 corals show any possible distress.
Current phosphate is .39 and nitrate 12, ph 8.0, alk 9, cal 480.
I’ve put a large bag of phosguard in my sump and got rid of the weird new chaeto. All I know to do is to keep doing water changes and hope for the best.

This sounds like my story to a T. I had a new 60 gal. with no GHA for 7-8 months. During this time I had some other algae that would come and go on my rock but it didn't look too bad so I didn't do anything about it. Also during this time I did nothing for PO4. All I had was Cheeto in my sump doing well. Then the GHA hit with a vengeance. Then I hit all the PO4 removers you can think of. This resulted in my Cheeto dying. Also the non-GHA algae started dying off. With each of the other algae dying off it would feed the GHA and keep it going. I was spending ~3 hours a week pulling out GHA and my hair.

So now for my fix. I started basting my rock with Bacter Clean-m by Continuum Aquatics. This stuff worked fantastic. First the other algeas on my rock died off and my rock became whiter than I could believe. Finally the last algae to dye off was the GHA. It took about 2 weeks of daily application of the Bacter Clean-m before the GHA really took the hit. Now it’s gone and any time it rears its head again I start the Bacter Clean-m again and it goes away. Also, the Bacter Clean-m had no ill effects on my coral. I can’t say that about Vibrant. Vibrant would hit the algae but also my duncans, micromussa, and zoas wouldn’t open for a day or two after application.

Now all I have to remove PO4 is ChemiPure Blue. I just added my Cheeto back in the sump this week and it appears to be growing again. I spent about 3 months battling before things got stable with no GHA.
 
Just to add another thing. I had somewhat of a similar scenario as yours. I couldn't grow Chaeto worth a darn. I tried various lights. I switched to a LED light specific for hydroponics. I realized that really is what that is what we are doing. The light is much heavier in the red spectrum. I bought it off ebay for around $65. I run it opposite my DT lights. My lightis about 12" above the water surface. I now throw out/give away chaeto every month.
 
Have you dosed peroxide? It killed my cheato, imho. Tried it two separate occasions same issue.
 
Have you dosed peroxide? It killed my cheato, imho. Tried it two separate occasions same issue.
 
I am having the same problem. I have tried 4 different batches of chaeto from all different sources and it just keeps dying and leaching even more nutrients back into my tank. I’m using the Skimz MBR157 Algae Reactor. When I look at the chaeto, it looks like it melted away in a dark mass full of detritus. I tried decreasing flow, increasing and still the same result. I ended up buying the algae turf scrubber surf4x from Santa Monica filtration to give that a try. I’m still running the algae reactor and was told by my aquarium maintence guy to turn the ohtoperiod down to 4 hours and slowly increase every couple of weeks to 12 on. We’ll see if that works. I am also waiting on an ICP test result. Are you running the triton method as well?

Not running Trident method but use their test to let me know where my water stands
 
Merv49 - I'm sorry to hear you're having problems with your chaeto. I too had some issue over the past year and it took me some time to figure it out for my system, but not it's growing like crazy now. Here some basic information on my system and what I think solved my issue. I hope this helps!

- My refugium is part of my sump in does around 10x turn over so that's about 1,500 gallons per hour. I don't think there is a right answer on the amount of flow after reading hours and hours of posts on the topic. What I can say is a higher flow will work fine. If you read up on the Triton Method, which heavily relies on a macro algae filter, you will see they suggest 10x turnover through the refugium.

- My sump is a Triton design to better ensure the water will flow through the chaeto. Meaning, the overflow drains into the refugium and the water must travel over the baffle to leave the refugium chamber (not under). It's possible that if the water drains under the baffle and your chaeto is floating, some/most of the nutrients could bypass the chaeto. I'm wondering what your baffle design looks like?

- I use the H380 on a 12 hour cycle about 8-9 inches above the water. I choose this height to make sure the light would hit each side of the refugium at the water surface to get maximum coverage and intensity. I hear the chaeto will adapt to the light like corals so as some suggested, you could try different heights to see if that makes a difference.

- Trace elements are needed for health growing macroalgae including chaeto. I believe this was the key to getting mine to grow. What type of salt do you use? If your salt isn't replacing the right trace elements as Randy pointed out then you will need to dose them separately. Your ICP test results could help.

- GHA covered my chaeto during two attempts to grow it. I think it grows easier/faster and has fewer requirements on trace elements so it can easily overtake macroalgae. The second time I tried to get it going, I would spend time each week pulling out the GHA so it would not chock out the chaeto. With some persistence, the GHA eventually died back and the chaeto took off. Sometimes I think you need to help it out compete the GHA.

- Regarding the types of chaeto. I'm not expert, but I have 4 different types now. One is really thick, another is super thin like wire, one of the types grows in a tight mat like a brillo pad and another type seems to grow in long lines with no kinks. I will say all of it is durable and does not break up into smaller pieces when it's healthy.

- As mentioned, the full Zeovit Method is built around a bacteria filter system to achieve ULNS. While you might be OK for now if you have high nitrates, and phosphastes, it will likly out compete the chaeto so I would keep an eye on it. For what it's worth, I have undetectable nitrates, and phosphates now so I removed the ATS and GFO. Still zero/zero so I'm planning to reduce my light cycle and add more fish.

I hope this provides you with some thoughts on where you need to check and where you can skip... I feel your pain, I gave up for a while and went to an ATS out of frustration. After doing more research on the trace elements I gave it another try and BOOM, it took off.

Good luck!

Good thoughts and fresh insight. Thanks for your input. Currently using reef crystals salt.
 
Just to add another thing. I had somewhat of a similar scenario as yours. I couldn't grow Chaeto worth a darn. I tried various lights. I switched to a LED light specific for hydroponics. I realized that really is what that is what we are doing. The light is much heavier in the red spectrum. I bought it off ebay for around $65. I run it opposite my DT lights. My lightis about 12" above the water surface. I now throw out/give away chaeto every month.
This is what the OP uses: http://kessil.com/horticulture/H380.php
 
I had problems using the h380, switched to an Amazon grow light bulb with a clamp on socket and the chaeto exploded. I also was dosing an iron manganese Mix to the sump.

I was using a taotronic grow bulb
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top