Chemi-Pure Blue vs. Activated Carbon??
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Jedi1199
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@REEFERADDICT01
You have me thinking now.. I bet I could DIY a 5 or even 10g basic tank inside the stand.. simple baffle setup just like a sump. All I would really need to figure out would be some kind of overflow box. My old wet/dry had one, but it was attached to the tank via suction cups.. I would need a better mounting system and possibly a larger box.. but it could be doable.. hmmmm
You have me thinking now.. I bet I could DIY a 5 or even 10g basic tank inside the stand.. simple baffle setup just like a sump. All I would really need to figure out would be some kind of overflow box. My old wet/dry had one, but it was attached to the tank via suction cups.. I would need a better mounting system and possibly a larger box.. but it could be doable.. hmmmm
Johnnyrainbowreefer
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Bingo! Good luck brother!
Johnnyrainbowreefer
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Randy Holmes-Farley
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Polymeric materials such as Purigen do not directly bind or remove appreciable phosphate from seawater.
They do bind organics, and since some of those organics may contain P, exporting those organics before they break down may effectively export some P. Same is true of GAC and anything else that exports organics matter.
They do bind organics, and since some of those organics may contain P, exporting those organics before they break down may effectively export some P. Same is true of GAC and anything else that exports organics matter.
Salty87
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@REEFERADDICT01... You have got a beautiful LPS dominant reef. May I ask what lights you are running? From the pics you have posted those mounts looks like ai mounts...
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Jedi1199
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Wow.. I had forgotten this thread... So much has changed, and stayed the same since I first posted this.
Funny thing is, I have never run either carbon or Chemi-Pure blue in my tanks since I started this thread.
My 55g tank has been a thriving system for quite a while now. (check out updates in my build thread or videos on my youtube channel Jedi1199).
To be honest, I don't even recall what issue I was having that sparked this thread. I do know that when I did run carbon in my 32g tank, the water was crystal clear. No sign of the yellow tinge that normally is present.
While I am no expert by any means, I believe that a well-stocked tank, takes care of stuff all on its own. I say this because, in my own tank, I have 16 fish and over 100 corals. I have zero nuisance algae issues. No issues with parameter fluxuations. Pretty much anything I put in the tank does well.
That said, I have made a few upgrades since I posted this almost a year ago. I added a small "sump", an oversized skimmer, and better-quality lighting.
Makes me wonder if carbon, or any form of chemi-pure is even needed?
In my experience, the answer is no.
Funny thing is, I have never run either carbon or Chemi-Pure blue in my tanks since I started this thread.
My 55g tank has been a thriving system for quite a while now. (check out updates in my build thread or videos on my youtube channel Jedi1199).
To be honest, I don't even recall what issue I was having that sparked this thread. I do know that when I did run carbon in my 32g tank, the water was crystal clear. No sign of the yellow tinge that normally is present.
While I am no expert by any means, I believe that a well-stocked tank, takes care of stuff all on its own. I say this because, in my own tank, I have 16 fish and over 100 corals. I have zero nuisance algae issues. No issues with parameter fluxuations. Pretty much anything I put in the tank does well.
That said, I have made a few upgrades since I posted this almost a year ago. I added a small "sump", an oversized skimmer, and better-quality lighting.
Makes me wonder if carbon, or any form of chemi-pure is even needed?
In my experience, the answer is no.
Randy Holmes-Farley
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The main purpose is reduced organics which reduces yellowing of the water. Skimmers do some of that too, but GAC may be more effective.
