Chemiclean,,, not touching my cyanobacteria

[aquablizz]

Over the past couple months I started have problems with cyanobacteria. Reading through a few threads on this forum I decide to purchase CHEMICLEAN which has been given high praise by many as a cure. I have treated my tank according to the instruction 3 times now in the past 10 days with absolutely zero effect.

Has any other reefers ever had an issue with the product not working.. I am wondering if it has and expiration date,,, the stuff ain't cheap but I might as well been dumping caps full of water into my system.

Blizz

 

[tripdad]

I won't go into all the arguments here as that's available elsewhere. I'll just say that there are different things that all get lumped in as "cyano" and all are not. Therefore one product may not work while another will. For me I had zero results with Chemi-clean but super results from RedCyano Rx by Blue Life USA. It wiped out a massive infestation of "cyano" in three days for me. Good Luck, Cyano sucks!

 

[brandon429]

Agreed

Also: you can beat cyano and lookalikes without any meds if you just clean the sandbed the right way, and the rocks, a few times. That means nanos are fully easy to fix and large tanks tougher

Post full tank and pics, did we link cyano to filthy sandbed wo sand being stated in description- recurring theme in cyano and spirulina threads. Also need to see if this can be dinos which sometimes express really similar. The sand and rock cleaning doesn't care what species you have, large threads on curing invasions by rinsing sandbeds show.

In nano reefs I'd personally never use anything other, and certainly not a tankwide med. larger tanks with filthy sandbeds might have to.

Define filthy sandbed even if they look clean in pics: if you reach in and grab two handfuls of sand while tank is running, and drop sand down, does a massive cloud that kills a few frags or in the least cause a counter invasion result? Cyano doesn't grow if you guide it out with simple focused cleaning, may take more than once which is where most reefers bail and go with meds or peroxide etc.

 

[aquablizz]

I Always vacuum sandbed with my water changes but some places are impossible to get to without dismantling. My tank is a 75 display with a 30 gallon sump/fuge.. NO3 = 10ppm PO4 =.08 Might have to try the lights out treatment..

 

[brandon429]

My water readings are about the same, that's not a param issue. My phosphate is higher I bet. 75 gallons? I'd cheat it out with a giant UV and close the deal. Message me pics if poss

I find nutrient tuning not to be for the removal of an invader, removal is by force and params are only for prevention

I know large tank cleaning is tough

John M Cole on this site has the life span of a 75 gallon (I got to see it's lineage in person/friend same city) documented and it shows him gradually being forced to remove sand so that he could clean, feed well, and be cyano free. There's always a tweak/param/grazer that will work, but finding those reliably is hard

That's why I go manual fix on it in my threads. Once we r beyond full tank access, if found not to be dinos by ID, then UV whips cyano but even UV has to be done right, and can be returned within 30 days anyway if not wowed/ every major websites sales offer with restocking fees etc

UV: correct size means entirely overrated for your tank. A pond sterilizer you run until job is done, we aren't applying for beauty contest this is bio warfare. Overdo grossly or don't UV, my opinion as someone who ran a koi pond sterilizer on a 75 freshwater and never saw cyano again. Every time we track oversized UV use on a reef tank, installed only after the tank is hand cleaned to zero cyano on sight, the endpoint is happy user. After a while the UV can come off line, till needed again for something new

Plenty other ways to beat it too, these are just my go tos

 

[aquablizz]

Thanks for the input... work to be done for sure..