Chemistry cheat sheet for newbies

Hemlawk · Mar 8, 2017

I'm new to reefing and there is a lot to learn. Actually its incredibly overwhelming.
I'm trying to compile information on a quick reference cheat sheet. I also printing the parameter chart from the chemistry forum.
This is what I have so far. If any of this is wrong, please correct me. I appreciate any input. I'll be adding more into as I learn.

Reef tank cheat sheet

1. Phosphates <0.03 ppm

Caused by: Over feeding, over stock, poor water quality (non ro/di).

Control: Use ro/di water, refugium/macro algae, media reactor, PhosGuard media, GFO, liquid remover.

Negative impact: brown coral, ugly tank, stress fish

2. Nitrates <10 ppm

Caused by: final step of Ammonia cycle.

Control: 10% water change per week. Proper feeding, skimmer well tuned, Refugium, Clean up crew, open rock work, carbon dose (bio pellet/vodka with low dKH), plants in sump.

Negative impact: brown coral, hair algae, stress fish, ugly tank.

3. Calcium and Alkalinity (Ca & dKH) Ca 420 ppm/dKH 8.5

Use: Corals absorb for skeletal structure. (sea-saw effect) (Calcium Carbonate)

Test kit: Ca calcium ions, dKH Carbonate ions.

Magnesium: prevents precipitation of CaCo3, 1350 ppm (can raise dKH)

Precipitation: white crust build up.

Increase Ca/dKH: Kalkwasser

Lower dKH: Water change

Warning: Don’t blind dose kalkwasser. New Nano might not need it yet.

4. pH control 8.1-8.3

Issues: Increased CO2 will lower pH. dHK affects pH.

Increase: Open windows, better air flow in room. Kalkwasser. Skimmer air intake o/s. Powerheads pointed up (make waves) Macro Algae/refugium. Co2 scrubber.

Tahoe61 · Mar 8, 2017

Great start, you're taking on a complex task.

This link has been my cheat sheet for years:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

With regard to alkalinity, the value of dkh is a reflection of the solutions ability to maintain a stable pH. This the the reason it used to be referred to as the hardness of the water.

The pH value may depend on the time of day you test pH. One should test at the beginning of the photo-period and again at the end of the photo-period to look for swings in the pH value. A pH wandering down to 7.8 at night and coming back up to anything over 8.0 over the course of the photo-period would not cause me great concern in most tanks. At least try to test at the same time of day to avoid over correction.

Ratios of between Ca and Alk can be of assist. Again with Randy Holmes Farly (the only expert that made chemistry a little easier for me).

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

It's important to look at your corals and tank first rather than shoot for specific values. Every tank is different, some tanks can handle higher values of phos and nitrates without any untoward affect. More is not better, just because a LFS pushes a product does not mean you will obtain favorable results from use of the product. Basic mixed reef tanks need only routine water changes to replenish trace elements. For sps dominated tanks one needs to figure out the consumption of the tank and proceed slowly to reach desired values for that specific tank.

I am dyslexic and fail in math and chemistry so any information that makes it easier for hobbyist I am behind.

Values are only as good as the testing method and the tester, follow directions, if a value falls out of the norm or expected value, test again and if necessary use a different testing method. Magnesium can be one of the trickier test kits.

Hemlawk · Mar 8, 2017

Thanks!

I'm dyslexic too and adhd. That's why I have to write this stuff down or print an easy access list of facts. I'll def read those articles and cherry pick info that I need for my list.