Chip Edge on Glass Tank Repair

We did the whole tank. We were concerned about "new silicone" sealing against "old silicone". Honestly, once we had the rims off of the top and bottom, the glass came apart pretty easy.

We cleaned the glass with razor blades (careful not to scratch), then glued it back one panel at a time, holding it in place with tape. We had all 4 sides together the first day. Let that dry for 3 days, then trimmed off the squeeze out from the corners and the outside.

After that, we put painters tape in the corners so that our silicone seal would be uniform, squeezed a bead along the inside corners, smoothed it with my finger, then pulled the tape. It looked like a million bucks!

Lastly, we siliconed the glass braces back in place (we used clear for that), and let it cure for a month.

Glasscages advised 4 weeks because apparently, black silicone cures slower than the clear. At about 4 weeks we noticed that we couldn't smell the silicone any more, so we figured they were spot on!

One thing to know, the glass is not supposed to make contact at the corners. There is supposed to be a tiny space. We used hole punched coke bottle plastic as a spacers at the edges, and one in the middle. They were sandwiched between the glass, but the silicone made them invisible. More advice we got from glassgcages...


So do you think i would just need to replace the front panel of glass??

Do you think the back panel , which is the photo with blue backing and the scallop shaped chip would be ok to leave???
 
So do you think i would just need to replace the front panel of glass??

Do you think the back panel , which is the photo with blue backing and the scallop shaped chip would be ok to leave???

do you really want to risk 210 gallons of water on your floor?
 
I would totally redo the whole tank if I were you. I don't know if you've done resealing/building tanks but it's easy and kinda fun.
I have never done it but don't mind a project. So would you replace front and back panels??? That is what I am trying to figure out?
 
yes replace all panels with those cracks.

so front and back panels.

replace them.

as said glasscages.com offers a very good rate on glass panels
 
yes replace all panels with those cracks.

so front and back panels.

replace them.

as said glasscages.com offers a very good rate on glass panels
I would do a low iron for front panel and a regular glass for rear panel
 
So do you think i would just need to replace the front panel of glass??

Do you think the back panel , which is the photo with blue backing and the scallop shaped chip would be ok to leave???
I would just replace the damaged glass only. If it were a non drilled tank, that could become your new front.
 
I would just replace the damaged glass only. If it were a non drilled tank, that could become your new front.
Back panel is photo with scallop shaped chip and blue backing that peels off
 
We did the whole tank. We were concerned about "new silicone" sealing against "old silicone". Honestly, once we had the rims off of the top and bottom, the glass came apart pretty easy.

We cleaned the glass with razor blades (careful not to scratch), then glued it back one panel at a time, holding it in place with tape. We had all 4 sides together the first day. Let that dry for 3 days, then trimmed off the squeeze out from the corners and the outside.

After that, we put painters tape in the corners so that our silicone seal would be uniform, squeezed a bead along the inside corners, smoothed it with my finger, then pulled the tape. It looked like a million bucks!

Lastly, we siliconed the glass braces back in place (we used clear for that), and let it cure for a month.

Glasscages advised 4 weeks because apparently, black silicone cures slower than the clear. At about 4 weeks we noticed that we couldn't smell the silicone any more, so we figured they were spot on!

One thing to know, the glass is not supposed to make contact at the corners. There is supposed to be a tiny space. We used hole punched coke bottle plastic as a spacers at the edges, and one in the middle. They were sandwiched between the glass, but the silicone made them invisible. More advice we got from glassgcages...

I wish you had a video or photos of everything , I almost want to attempt to replace the front panel alone
 
I wish you had a video or photos of everything , I almost want to attempt to replace the front panel alone

Honestly, for an Aqueon 210 it doesn’t make much sense to repair. By the time you buy the 2panes, pay to have them delivered, buy the right silicone, and then spend weeks waiting for it to cure you’d probably not be saving much (if any) over buying a brand new tank with a warranty. I have the same tank. It’s a heavy beast and I sure wouldn’t feel confident sealing it myself. Maybe if you have a lot of experience sealing tanks and already have all of the equipment needed but if not I wouldn’t try it.
 
Just to update the thread, I contacted Aqueon about the chips and the Technical Engineer said that these chips doe not affect the structural integrity of the tank. He also said those two small runners are the lines of a new clam shell chip, which he was correct, they have now formed a clam shell shaped chip.

It is great to know Aqueon takes great care in talking to their customers and actually know what they are talking about as well.
 
There is supposed to be a tiny space. We used hole punched coke bottle plastic as a spacers at the edges, and one in the middle. They were sandwiched between the glass, but the silicone made them invisible. More advice we got from glassgcages...

Can you elaborate on this? Did you mean you took a plastic coke bottle, used a hole punch to make little discs from what is removed, then inserted them as spacers between the glass? How many? how far apart? etc..
 
What do y’all think of this... glass is 3/4 thick and the crack (that runs along the edge where the silicone is) goes only but 3-4 mm deep.

I plan to replace the stand, and the silicone through the whole tank.
 

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