Chloramine! Let’s talk about it.

HotRocks

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So I recently discovered that my municipality changed from using free chlorine to using chloramine to treat our local water. This was back in the fall. I started having all kinds of issues with my SPS tank and my other tank around this time. Lots of unexplained SPS RTN and STN that lead to death as well as major algae outbreaks in both of my tanks. All parameters on SPS that should be monitored were in acceptable range. Is it possible that the chloramine is making it through my spectapure RODI and affecting the biodiversity of my tanks. Killing off coral as well as beneficial bacteria leading to an imbalance that has allowed algae to take over?
 
short answer is it depends on what filters you have. A standard carbon filter will not be effective and will lead to your DI getting used. up.

check with spectrapure to see if your unit is equipped with a chloramine removing carbon cartridge.
 
I just checked their website. Chloramine removing units appear to be a separate aquarium line

Screen Shot 2020-04-05 at 1.47.48 PM.png
 
This is the unit I run:


I do monitor the TDS but that is unrelated to chloramine and I just ordered the chloramine monster from BRS to put in front of the spectrapure unit.

 
So I recently discovered that my municipality changed from using free chlorine to using chloramine to treat our local water. This was back in the fall. I started having all kinds of issues with my SPS tank and my other tank around this time. Lots of unexplained SPS RTN and STN that lead to death as well as major algae outbreaks in both of my tanks. All parameters on SPS that should be monitored were in acceptable range. Is it possible that the chloramine is making it through my spectapure RODI and affecting the biodiversity of my tanks. Killing off coral as well as beneficial bacteria leading to an imbalance that has allowed algae to take over?

It is possible the chloramine is getting through, especially if you have a marginal carbon block, but in my testing of lots of folks system, it is unlikely to be the issue. Folks without special chloramine systems removed it fine, IME, but if it isn't being removed, better carbon blocks may be in order.

A cheap chlorine test kit used on the effluent is the way to know if it is an issue or not.
 
short answer is it depends on what filters you have. A standard carbon filter will not be effective and will lead to your DI getting used. up.

check with spectrapure to see if your unit is equipped with a chloramine removing carbon cartridge.

This is not correct.

First, In the event that chloramine is getting through the carbon block and RO, it is not going to rapidly deplete a DI. How would that happen? Mostly it is uncharged. If it did deplete the DI, that would mean the DI is removing it.

Don't just randomly accept manufacturers claims that you need a better system to remove chloramine. It is always worth a cheapo test to see before spending hard earned money on a needless upgrade.

i tested lots of reefers systems for my chloramine article, including my own, and your statement is incorrect. A normal system removed chloramine from my tap water, and from any others (in fact, only in one did it not).

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

from it:

Consequently, within the capabilities of the Hach test kit (0.01 ppm), there is no chloramine getting through the system. A small amount does appear to get past the carbon to the RO waste water, but it does not get through the RO membrane and DI resin.

A similar set of data (more or less complete) was collected from about 20 aquarists in different parts of the country. These included systems that were stated to have a capacity of 25-100 gallons per day, the higher volume systems being especially interesting because the contact time with the carbon might be shorter. All but one had similar results to those reported here.


and

Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1. Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2. The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3. Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4. Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5. One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.
 
This is one of my fears. If the city changes our water I’ll never know. In our part of the city there are no chloramines. On the other side it’s in use and a fellow reefer uses a BRS monster chloramine filter. With the knowledge that they do treat one part of the cities water supply with it tells me this side could get changed as needed too.

Edit: I found this video useful on the subject of Chloramines
 
This is not correct.

First, In the event that chloramine is getting through the carbon block and RO, it is not going to rapidly deplete a DI. How would that happen? Mostly it is uncharged. If it did deplete the DI, that would mean the DI is removing it.


Don't just randomly accept manufacturers claims that you need a better system to remove chloramine. It is always worth a cheapo test to see before spending hard earned money on a needless upgrade.

i tested lots of reefers systems for my chloramine article, including my own, and your statement is incorrect. A normal system removed chloramine from my tap water, and from any others (in fact, only in one did it not).

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

from it:

Consequently, within the capabilities of the Hach test kit (0.01 ppm), there is no chloramine getting through the system. A small amount does appear to get past the carbon to the RO waste water, but it does not get through the RO membrane and DI resin.

A similar set of data (more or less complete) was collected from about 20 aquarists in different parts of the country. These included systems that were stated to have a capacity of 25-100 gallons per day, the higher volume systems being especially interesting because the contact time with the carbon might be shorter. All but one had similar results to those reported here.


and

Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1. Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2. The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3. Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4. Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5. One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.



I learned that from a Marine Depot write up on the subject

"The problem for aquarists is that chloramine is not effectively removed by standard RO/DI systems and the presence of chloramine will quickly exhaust your DI cartridge."


 
This is one of my fears. If the city changes our water I’ll never know. In our part of the city there are no chloramines. On the other side it’s in use and a fellow reefer uses a BRS monster chloramine filter. With the knowledge that they do treat one part of the cities water supply with it tells me this side could get changed as needed too.

Buy a $10-$20 test kit and test your effluent periodically. :)
 
I learned that from a Marine Depot write up on the subject

Maybe taking advice from resellers is not optimal. So many hobby companies make false claims about chemicals. Sometimes they just don't know. Sometimes they know (if only because I told them) and do not care.

In this case, it is totally and utterly false to say one must use a special chloramine filter. Maybe in some cases you do. Or maybe you just need decent quality equipment and not unbranded crappy carbon blocks. Maybe it is good insurance to use the best. But it is not ALWAYS needed.
 
Can the carbon cartridges be easily swapped. So if one knows their municipality is using chloramines the only way to know if a new rodi unit will filter them is to hook it up and test.

If the test shows it getting through, then if I am following along correctly, one would need to upgrade the carbon filters.

Along those lines, I assume the screw top designs would be easier (assuming you can just swap the filter),
 
So I recently discovered that my municipality changed from using free chlorine to using chloramine to treat our local water. This was back in the fall. I started having all kinds of issues with my SPS tank and my other tank around this time. Lots of unexplained SPS RTN and STN that lead to death as well as major algae outbreaks in both of my tanks. All parameters on SPS that should be monitored were in the acceptable range. Is it possible that the chloramine is making it through my spectapure RODI and affecting the biodiversity of my tanks. Killing off coral as well as beneficial bacteria leading to an imbalance that has allowed algae to take over?
This is something that I know a little about, if your ro/di has an in-line activated carbon filter, my understanding is that the activated carbon will take care of chloramines as well as chlorine. Chloramines should show up in a regular chlorine test, API makes a good one and if your RO/DI tests positive for chlorine a new activated carbon unit or regular de-chlorinator or anything containing sodium tetra sulfate will help. In my experience, the dechlorination reaction actually raises salinity a little so use sparingly.
 
Can the carbon cartridges be easily swapped. So if one knows their municipality is using chloramines the only way to know if a new rodi unit will filter them is to hook it up and test.

If the test shows it getting through, then if I am following along correctly, one would need to upgrade the carbon filters.

Along those lines, I assume the screw top designs would be easier (assuming you can just swap the filter),

I do not know the design of the "special" monster ones. They may be larger. But one can just get different carbon blocks from a place like spectrapure and swap them in, if needed:

 
I use the BRS universal Carbon Blocks with no issues. They should fit in your current unit with no problems. My city water uses Chloramines as well. There are several BRS videos on carbon blocks as well.
 
Maybe taking advice from resellers is not optimal. So many hobby companies make false claims about chemicals. Sometimes they just don't know. Sometimes they know (if only because I told them) and do not care.

In this case, it is totally and utterly false to say one must use a special chloramine filter. Maybe in some cases you do. Or maybe you just need decent quality equipment and not unbranded crappy carbon blocks. Maybe it is good insurance to use the best. But it is not ALWAYS needed.

From my understanding (However limited) it's not that regular carbon blocks can't remove chloramines, it's that they typically deplete much faster than blocks designed to remove them. I'm not sure exactly what the negative effects are of chloramine making it past the carbon stage, I don't think it damages the membrane the same way Chlorine can. If it can damage the membrane than this could lead to higher TDS out of the membrane. Which would lead to quicker consumption of your DI stages... all speculation on my part..
 
Ik im going to get backlash for this but me using just declorinator with regular water gets the chloramines out if you read on the back of declorinator it removes chloramines too
 
Ik im going to get backlash for this but me using just declorinator with regular water gets the chloramines out if you read on the back of declorinator it removes chloramines too
20200405_170405.jpg
 

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