Chloramine Removal Small Tank

LARedstickreefer

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So I moved to a town that uses chloramines. I’ve been reading a lot of conflicting information about what needs to be done. One argument is that a standard RODI setup will remove Chloramines. The other argument is that you need a $$$$ Chloramine filter. From what I can tell, the $$$$ filter argument is related to large quantities of RODI water.

I have a 43g tank. Do I need to invest in a $300 filter or can I get by with something much less expensive?
 
I just found out Minneapolis also uses chloramine in the water (the water report shows 4 ppm - I don't know if this is low or high, but it seems like a pretty good amount) and had never thought about this. I bought a 4 stage RO/DI unit from BRS (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/75gpd-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html) for $149 and it seems to be working fine, but I have only run about 300 gallons through it. However, after your post, I read and discovered the 4-stage unit is not very effective at removing chloramines and I think I will upgrade to the recommend 6 stage unit for water containing chloramines (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/6-stage-deluxe-75-gpd-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html). It's possible, I can just purchase a 2-stage upgrade - we'll see. My suggestion would be to purchase the 6 stage RO/DI unit if you have the space and money. This way you won't have to worry and will have ultra pure water. Also, thank you for posting about chloramines and raising this concern.
 
I use the 5 stage brs rodi. It comes with a tds meter and mine is always zero.
 
What type/brand of RODI system are you using that requires $300 to get a chloramine cartridge?

I get my RODI cartridges from AirWaterIce.com and it only costs $7 extra to upgrade the standard carbon cartridge to a catalytic carbon cartridge in order to remove chloramines.

I would image most other standard RODI units would also have fairly inexpensive catalytic carbon upgrades ... or that most systems use cartridges that are standard dimensions which would allow you to purchase a catalytic carbon cartridge from another brand.

Just check the dimensions of your current carbon stage cartridge and look to see if BRS, Spectrapure, AirWaterIce and other respected RODI suppliers offer one that is the same size.
 
You do not need special chloramine cartridges. However, I found that chloramine is more difficult to eliminate and I was burning through regular carbon blocks. I elected to install a big blue carbon and a sediment before it. They last a LONG time.
 
What type/brand of RODI system are you using that requires $300 to get a chloramine cartridge?

I get my RODI cartridges from AirWaterIce.com and it only costs $7 extra to upgrade the standard carbon cartridge to a catalytic carbon cartridge in order to remove chloramines.

I would image most other standard RODI units would also have fairly inexpensive catalytic carbon upgrades ... or that most systems use cartridges that are standard dimensions which would allow you to purchase a catalytic carbon cartridge from another brand.

Just check the dimensions of your current carbon stage cartridge and look to see if BRS, Spectrapure, AirWaterIce and other respected RODI suppliers offer one that is the same size.

Just put in an order to them as this is where I usually get my filters.
 
All you need is a second carbon block (if that). I added an add on canister to my 4 stage putting the sediment filter there and a second carbon block where the sediment filter once was. Cost like $23 plus the cost of a carbon block to add. For starters chloramine tested zero even before I added the 2nd carbon block but a few hundred gallons later with the additional carbon block still not s sign of chloramine in the product water. You can judge for yourself what you think my city chloramine level is but it's at least 2ppm and appears they are using all chloramine and no straight chlorine.

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I have a 50gpd Aquabuddy and found out the same about my town and chloramine. As such, I just purchased a standard 10" Canister to add on to the aquabuddy and will be using a catalytic carbon filter on it.
Town water report says 1.24 chlorine and 2.34 chloramine.
 
I have chloramine but I also have a Hach DR/900 so I'm able to test low levels of chlorine. Fish are sensitive to pretty low levels so I think you really need a method that can test down to 0.02 mg/L.

I started with a single activated carbon block. It broke through almost immediately. I added a second block and still had to change blocks more often than I would have liked. Say hello to carbon stage #3.

Add a 2nd membrane. Needs more pressure. Add booster pump. Lots more water moving faster.

Say hello to carbon stages #4 and 5.

An empty bed contact time of 5 min is recommended for chloramine removal by activated charcoal. I don't even know if I achieved that.
 

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I have chloramine but I also have a Hach DR/900 so I'm able to test low levels of chlorine. Fish are sensitive to pretty low levels so I think you really need a method that can test down to 0.02 mg/L.

I started with a single activated carbon block. It broke through almost immediately. I added a second block and still had to change blocks more often than I would have liked. Say hello to carbon stage #3.

Add a 2nd membrane. Needs more pressure. Add booster pump. Lots more water moving faster.

Say hello to carbon stages #4 and 5.

An empty bed contact time of 5 min is recommended for chloramine removal by activated charcoal. I don't even know if I achieved that.
Wait, what?!
How much water are you making? This sounds like it’s getting out of control, fast?!
 
My system does have a booster pump but yeah I'm not chasing it down that hard. I ran an inferior RO only drinking system for a decade with no testing for chloramine or tds without ever a fish/coral issue. My $10 a bottle Hatch strips Randy and other forum gurus recommended say zero, the fish are going to have to cope with any accuracy/resolution issues beyond that lol. One of the two blocks are chloramine specific if that matters
 
IME, chloramine is readily removed by most RO/DI systems. if it concerns you, get any cheapo chlorine kit and check the effluent. It need not be a chloramine kit.
 

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