Chloramines

When I test my product water (7 stage rodi with triple di and chloramine monster pre rodi) for ammonia it can read up to 2ppm with filters a month old. When you say that the carbon breaks down the chloramine is it breaking down into a form of ammonia and therefore is that why I am testing positive for ammonia in my rodi product water? Right now the only solution I have come up with is distilled water but want to figure out the rodi problem

yes, it converts it into ammonia.

how high is your tds prior to the di resins?
 
How do you measure 0.2ppm ammonia?

I had 2.0ppm chloramine at my old apartment and had no problem. I used 4 stages of carbon blocks, 5um, 1um, 1um and the a 0.5um. No issues. DI will do nothing for chloramines, focus on the carbon blocks.
 
yes, it converts it into ammonia.

how high is your tds prior to the di resins?
Ammonia that makes sense why my corals in the first tank the 10 gallon 8 months ago were not happy after a few weeks of water changes.

I can not remember the exact number of tds prior to di (been offline since the 70 gallon was set up new tank is all distilled) I think it was somewhere in the range of 4-8 pre di.

It was quite a chore to drag 70 gallons of distilled water back from Walmart to fill up the 70 gallon. Now I get it delivered to my door since Walmart delivers but would like to solve the rodi problem considering I would have to rent a truck to carry the water needed to fill up a couple hundred gallon tank.

Pictures of the 70 gallon distilled tank. Would like the same results in water quality and coral and fish health with a rodi

21627355-FB1B-4456-876C-5CC4762E6875.jpeg C5EEE859-E3CA-4289-BBAF-3B053F729D54.jpeg 2C8A15B6-E35F-4F4A-8C45-B7A449A8968D.jpeg BC1CF144-E65A-4E69-8546-F0A6D97FCC71.jpeg F73889BD-31D1-4762-BA64-7B30D190808C.jpeg 75E84AA6-605A-4247-A7F1-D1E10A6A6D92.jpeg D9202B4E-7A11-4519-A4E7-2196964B0BEE.jpeg B538B18D-2E9B-4021-A5A3-34BDFD777EEC.jpeg C24F0808-E574-4D9F-8F67-C9014BA46FE6.jpeg 79D5B947-0907-4DE1-9244-3D211EE8B3CF.jpeg 657EEECE-C2F0-4BFB-9C18-A5A7CD5A6C5F.jpeg 2040DFF2-54E9-4637-9077-D90A435D3DB7.jpeg 0466E72F-2CAE-426D-8975-B4A52B21B01F.jpeg 949606DC-6CEE-4920-BE3A-6944878B1834.jpeg E9E9431D-C2B6-4DA2-9A92-9C6DD4D37AE4.jpeg
 
How do you measure 0.2ppm ammonia?

I had 2.0ppm chloramine at my old apartment and had no problem. I used 4 stages of carbon blocks, 5um, 1um, 1um and the a 0.5um. No issues. DI will do nothing for chloramines, focus on the carbon blocks.
Red Sea the color card has a 0.2, 0.4, 0.8, 1.2, and 2 depending on color.

I am not sure what the problem is. Watched brs and followed their set up the 7 stage rodi with triple di with the chloramine monster pre rodi tried their carbon blocks and chloramine specific carbon blocks. The chloramine monster comes up to my hip it is so large and it’s replacement cartridge alone costs 150 bucks. The irony is I have invested so much money in the rodi setup and do not use it—using 80 cents a gallon distilled water—which is far cheaper than the cost of continually replacing the filters
 
Ammonia that makes sense why my corals in the first tank the 10 gallon 8 months ago were not happy after a few weeks of water changes.

I can not remember the exact number of tds prior to di (been offline since the 70 gallon was set up new tank is all distilled) I think it was somewhere in the range of 4-8 pre di.

It was quite a chore to drag 70 gallons of distilled water back from Walmart to fill up the 70 gallon. Now I get it delivered to my door since Walmart delivers but would like to solve the rodi problem considering I would have to rent a truck to carry the water needed to fill up a couple hundred gallon tank.

Pictures of the 70 gallon distilled tank. Would like the same results in water quality and coral and fish health with a rodi

21627355-FB1B-4456-876C-5CC4762E6875.jpeg C5EEE859-E3CA-4289-BBAF-3B053F729D54.jpeg 2C8A15B6-E35F-4F4A-8C45-B7A449A8968D.jpeg BC1CF144-E65A-4E69-8546-F0A6D97FCC71.jpeg F73889BD-31D1-4762-BA64-7B30D190808C.jpeg 75E84AA6-605A-4247-A7F1-D1E10A6A6D92.jpeg D9202B4E-7A11-4519-A4E7-2196964B0BEE.jpeg B538B18D-2E9B-4021-A5A3-34BDFD777EEC.jpeg C24F0808-E574-4D9F-8F67-C9014BA46FE6.jpeg 79D5B947-0907-4DE1-9244-3D211EE8B3CF.jpeg 657EEECE-C2F0-4BFB-9C18-A5A7CD5A6C5F.jpeg 2040DFF2-54E9-4637-9077-D90A435D3DB7.jpeg 0466E72F-2CAE-426D-8975-B4A52B21B01F.jpeg 949606DC-6CEE-4920-BE3A-6944878B1834.jpeg E9E9431D-C2B6-4DA2-9A92-9C6DD4D37AE4.jpeg

At 4-8 ppm tds, the di should last far, far longer. Something is wrong with the di setup, the resins, or the way they are packed in.
 
At 4-8 ppm tds, the di should last far, far longer. Something is wrong with the di setup, the resins, or the way they are packed in.
Yes I agree something is wrong considering if I am going to dump ammonia into my display I might as well just add it with a doser
 
55-60 psi with all new filters 50-55 psi when they start to exhaust

You probably would benefit from running an RODI booster and bumping the pressure up to 80-90psi, running that pressure with such a large RODI setup is probably causing worse than expected results.
 
My tds going into my di resins was about 9 ppm and I got hundreds of gallons from a di before tds would rise to 1 ppm and need replacement. Yours should too.

Alot of this factors into water pressure doesn't it? i had 40-50psi water pressure and 5-10ppm tds pre-di and i i got less total gallons created than i do now with a RODI booster pump and running 80-90 psi through the RODI.
 
My tds going into my di resins was about 9 ppm and I got hundreds of gallons from a di before tds would rise to 1 ppm and need replacement. Yours should too.
I do not get what is wrong even with all new filters ro membrane and di resin the tds I believe was 4 at its lowest pre di. I wish I lived in an area that treated the water with chlorine that is an easy problem to solve just let the chlorine evaporate
 
Maybe that is the problem

You can buy the aquatec 8800 pump on amazon for $115-ish. They have a 6600 version, but since you're running such a large setup i would go with the 8800, i have the 8800 as well and only have a 4 stage.

Edit: also buy the full kit and not just the pump, you'll need the power supply and adapter etc...
 
My tds going into my di resins was about 9 ppm and I got hundreds of gallons from a di before tds would rise to 1 ppm and need replacement. Yours should too.
If the carbon blocks break down the chloramine molecule into ammonia then what can I do to remove the ammonia from my product water before I add the water to my display?
 
Yes I agree something is wrong considering if I am going to dump ammonia into my display I might as well just add it with a doser

When you have chloramine, as I do as well, ammonia will be among the first things to get out of the di as it depletes and can be higher than the water going into the resin.

Are you buying ore packed di cartridges? Which brand?
 
When you have chloramine, as I do as well, ammonia will be among the first things to get out of the di as it depletes and can be higher than the water going into the resin.

Are you buying ore packed di cartridges? Which brand?
The single packages from brs that you pack yourself into the cartridge which I was literally beating on the floor with a plastic cup that fit inside perfectly but maybe some channeling was still occurring
 
The single packages from brs that you pack yourself into the cartridge which I was literally beating on the floor with a plastic cup that fit inside perfectly but maybe some channeling was still occurring

Might be channeling. Are you sure it is oriented with the proper side up?
 

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