Chocolate tang

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How old is this tank and it does best in a mature tanks that has good oxygen content and little to no swings
What is your ammonia-nitrate-ph levels and what test kits are you using?
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
cboylan1606 said:
Tang has been acting funny since last night. Swimming more to the top of the water. Been in the tank for 3 to 4 weeks thoughts
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Hi,

Do you have any video of the fish in its actual tank? Sitting in an observation tank like that, its all freaked out. I can see its breathing way too fast, but I can't tell if its because it is in a holding tank, or if it was breathing that hard in its regular tank. As mentioned, can you also post your water quality parameters, as well as any medications you've used so far and what other fish are in with it?

Thanks,

Jay Hemdal
 
Nutramar Foods
Jay Hemdal said:
Hi,

Do you have any video of the fish in its actual tank? Sitting in an observation tank like that, its all freaked out. I can see its breathing way too fast, but I can't tell if its because it is in a holding tank, or if it was breathing that hard in its regular tank. As mentioned, can you also post your water quality parameters, as well as any medications you've used so far and what other fish are in with it?

Thanks,

Jay Hemdal
Click to expand...
Pulled him from the tank to check for white spots can see what looks like dots if I put the flashlight to it
 
cboylan1606 said:
Tank is 4 months old
Ammonia is 0
Nitrate is between 10 and 20
Ph is 8.3
Ph was tested with Hanna
Everything else api
Click to expand...
Nitrate is up a little and4 mo tank with no ammonia- I would suggest a second source of testing for ammonia as Jay mentioned on breathing.
Second source would be a water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test and compare with your results. What size is the tank ?
 
cboylan1606 said:
No video in the tank. Have a pair of clowns a few chromis a melunarus wrasse
Click to expand...

Well, the only symptoms to go on is the rapid breathing and the faint white dots that you can only see under light - I can only come up with Amyloodinium, or velvet.

Here is an excerpt that I wrote about this issue:

Amyloodinium (a.k.a. marine velvet disease)



Cause

Commonly known as “marine velvet” in hobby parlance, Amyloodinium is caused by a dinoflagellate protozoan that can produce severe epidemics in aquariums. Furthermore, it can infect fishes that are normally more resistant to other marine protozoan diseases (e.g., Cryptocaryon), such as sharks, rays, and eels.



Symptoms

The life cycle of Amyloodinium is very similar to that of Cryptocaryon, as are the possible treatments available, but it has less distinctive early symptoms and can cause fish mortalities much sooner than other protozoan infections—sometimes within 12 hours of the onset of obvious symptoms. This disease begins as an infection of the fish’s gills, and only in advanced cases does it spread to the skin, giving it a “velvety” look. Symptoms include rapid breathing and hovering in the current from pumps.



Beginning aquarists often miss the first symptoms and commonly report, “All my fish suddenly died, but the invertebrates are all fine.” Since invertebrates are typically more sensitive to water-quality issues than fish are, the fact that the fish suddenly died but the invertebrates were unharmed means that water-quality problems can be ruled out. That leaves a fish disease, and Amyloodinium can often be diagnosed without even needing to perform a necropsy on the fish due to the rapidity of the fish loss!



Diagnosis

The key to early diagnosis of Amyloodinium is to monitor the fish’s gill health by taking regular fish respiration rates. This is a simple matter of counting the number of gill beats in one minute for a representative fish in the aquarium and then rechecking the respiration rate every few days to watch for any elevation in that rate.



Newly acquired fish that are not being treated prophylactically should have their respiration rate checked daily, as these fish are the ones at greatest risk of developing this disease. The actual respiration rate is not that important, it is a rise in the rate that must be monitored for.



Different species of fish will respire at different rates. Smaller fish breathe faster than large ones, and fish in warmer water will respire faster as well. Typically, tropical fish will respire between 60 and 120 gill beats per minute. If you can’t view the fish for a full minute, you can try counting for 15 seconds and multiplying the result by four.



Knowing your fish’s normal baseline respiration rate is vital; any rise in that rate above 30% (and not attributable to something else, such as the fish being chased by a tankmate) should be viewed as a possible symptom of this disease.



Treatment

Treatments for Amyloodinium cannot be performed with invertebrates present, yet the entire tank usually needs to be treated in order to eradicate it. Copper sulfate at 0.20 ppm for 14 days is one often-used cure. Chloroquine at 8 to 15 ppm as a 30-day static bath is another treatment that has been used with good success.



Performing a five-minute freshwater dip can buy some time in order to develop a full treatment. Hydrogen peroxide dips and moving the fish to a sterile aquarium has been used in aquaculture. Lowering the tank’s temperature is rarely effective. Likewise, hyposalinity treatments (sometimes recommended for Cryptocaryon treatments) will not work for Amyloodinium.
 
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Jay Hemdal said:
Well, the only symptoms to go on is the rapid breathing and the faint white dots that you can only see under light - I can only come up with Amyloodinium, or velvet.

Here is an excerpt that I wrote about this issue:

Amyloodinium (a.k.a. marine velvet disease)



Cause

Commonly known as “marine velvet” in hobby parlance, Amyloodinium is caused by a dinoflagellate protozoan that can produce severe epidemics in aquariums. Furthermore, it can infect fishes that are normally more resistant to other marine protozoan diseases (e.g., Cryptocaryon), such as sharks, rays, and eels.



Symptoms

The life cycle of Amyloodinium is very similar to that of Cryptocaryon, as are the possible treatments available, but it has less distinctive early symptoms and can cause fish mortalities much sooner than other protozoan infections—sometimes within 12 hours of the onset of obvious symptoms. This disease begins as an infection of the fish’s gills, and only in advanced cases does it spread to the skin, giving it a “velvety” look. Symptoms include rapid breathing and hovering in the current from pumps.



Beginning aquarists often miss the first symptoms and commonly report, “All my fish suddenly died, but the invertebrates are all fine.” Since invertebrates are typically more sensitive to water-quality issues than fish are, the fact that the fish suddenly died but the invertebrates were unharmed means that water-quality problems can be ruled out. That leaves a fish disease, and Amyloodinium can often be diagnosed without even needing to perform a necropsy on the fish due to the rapidity of the fish loss!



Diagnosis

The key to early diagnosis of Amyloodinium is to monitor the fish’s gill health by taking regular fish respiration rates. This is a simple matter of counting the number of gill beats in one minute for a representative fish in the aquarium and then rechecking the respiration rate every few days to watch for any elevation in that rate.



Newly acquired fish that are not being treated prophylactically should have their respiration rate checked daily, as these fish are the ones at greatest risk of developing this disease. The actual respiration rate is not that important, it is a rise in the rate that must be monitored for.



Different species of fish will respire at different rates. Smaller fish breathe faster than large ones, and fish in warmer water will respire faster as well. Typically, tropical fish will respire between 60 and 120 gill beats per minute. If you can’t view the fish for a full minute, you can try counting for 15 seconds and multiplying the result by four.



Knowing your fish’s normal baseline respiration rate is vital; any rise in that rate above 30% (and not attributable to something else, such as the fish being chased by a tankmate) should be viewed as a possible symptom of this disease.



Treatment

Treatments for Amyloodinium cannot be performed with invertebrates present, yet the entire tank usually needs to be treated in order to eradicate it. Copper sulfate at 0.20 ppm for 14 days is one often-used cure. Chloroquine at 8 to 15 ppm as a 30-day static bath is another treatment that has been used with good success.



Performing a five-minute freshwater dip can buy some time in order to develop a full treatment. Hydrogen peroxide dips and moving the fish to a sterile aquarium has been used in aquaculture. Lowering the tank’s temperature is rarely effective. Likewise, hyposalinity treatments (sometimes recommended for Cryptocaryon treatments) will not work for Amyloodinium.
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I see some diffuse discoloration of the skin, some of it may be from netting it out of the tank. If you can count its respiration rate (like the number of gill beats in 15 seconds and multiply by 4 that number should be less than 80 when the fish is at ease in its home tank. I wouldn't leave it out and exposed like that for very long - that will really stress it out.

Jay
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
Jay Hemdal said:
I see some diffuse discoloration of the skin, some of it may be from netting it out of the tank. If you can count its respiration rate (like the number of gill beats in 15 seconds and multiply by 4 that number should be less than 80 when the fish is at ease in its home tank. I wouldn't leave it out and exposed like that for very long - that will really stress it out.

Jay
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It’s back in the tank now only pulled it to look at it
 
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