Chronic higher nitrates and carbon dosing

jschultzbass

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
1,605
Reaction score
1,047
Location
Cloquet, MN
What state or country do you live in
Minnesota
Rating - 100%
2   0   0
Ok, need some help. I upgraded to a 300 gallon tank with sump. When I fist set it up I used all new dry Pukani rock from BRS and dry sand. Have a Reef Dynamics INS350E skimmer. After everything cycled I started adding fish. It didn't take long before Cyano was everywhere. Nitrates were up to 50 and had 0.00 phosphates. I decided to add biopellets but after 6 months nothing changed. Then I suffered a fish die off by being stupid (not QTing a Dussi tang who brought in a bad case of velvet). I removed the 3 fish that survived and let the tank go fallow for 8 weeks. During this time I took the biopellets off and with no fish the Cyano cleared up. I didn't test much during this period. I started adding fish a couple months ago and with the increased nutrients green hair algae started popping up and then soon after more Cyano. I've been testing Nitrate and Phosphate every week for the last five weeks and nitrates are stuck at 25 and phosphate at 0.00. I am tempted to start up the biopellets again and after a little more research have realized since the cyano was taking up all the phospates the bacteria probably never grew in the reactor. I'm also thinking of ditching biopellets and using vodka or vinegar. I picked up some Seachem Flourish Phosphorus but don't quite know where to start. I read the vinegar might be the best choice if you have a Cyano issue so might try that. Just wondering if I should start the phosphorus with the vinegar or what peoples thoughts were. Sorry for the long winded explanation. The tank is has been up and running for about 10 months total and would like to make it a reef but want to get the parameters right and the algae under control first.

All tests were taken using Salifert test kits. Thanks!
 
I had never had dinoflagellates in my life (12 years reefing) until I started vodka dosing...

They're rock ebola
 
I don't much care for dosing vinegar, as especially in a 300g tank, your going to be dosing by the cups to get the nitrates down, you'll need huge amounts to get it to come down in the beginning.
But, if your still going through with vinegar, yes, it will more than do the trick.
 
Too much carbon dosing causes Cyano as well. Read this thread by Sunny X. Also GO GOPHERS!

I've had this posted on another site for quite a while. I feel that now is a good time to post this here for prospective users.

Good luck,

Sonny






JUNE 18 2010:

Hello fellow reefers! I have received quite a few questions concerning the dosing of probiotics and carbon sources so I have decided to start this thread. FORUM PRO's will reply to your question.

Thank you,

Sonny


MicroBacter7/Vodka dosing guide


So, I am sure by now many of you have heard of people dosing vodka and bacteria into their systems. You first thought may have been "what" or "why", but I am here to help explain the reasons behind why those of us who do dose vodka do so.

Let me start by saying I am not an expert on the subject. I am not a scientist and cannot get into the intricate details of how and why the dosing of vodka works. I can however tell you what has worked for me and give you a general idea of how vodka dosing aids ones system. Please keep in mind that this dosing system is not without risks. You can wipe out your system if the proper procedures are not followed.

Before reading what I have to say below be sure to check out the links below:

(This will give you a general idea on how much vodka to dose)
Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com

(This is a simple overview of the vodka dosing trend in this hobby)
Gimme a Vodka, on the Live Rocks, with a Splash of Heavy Skimming. (03/30/10) / Feature Articles - Quality Marine


Basically, the ethanol in vodka feeds bacteria in your aquarium which in turn multiply. When the bacteria multiplies it consumes N03 and P04. The bacteria, along with the nutrients it has consumed is then exported by a large protein skimmer. The bacteria, in this case MB7, is added in order to keep the bacteria diversified and help stave off red slime. You can dose vodka alone but I wouldn't recommend it.

When I first setup my current tank I had been adding Microbacter7 from Brightwell aquatics. While this help the tank I wasn't all that impressed. It wasn't until I started dosing vodka that things really took off. Within a month of dosing vodka I no longer had to use GFO. Within 3 months I actually had to add Amino Acids and feed the tank more as it had become "too clean". The corals had lightened up and actually stopped growing. After cutting back a bit on the vodka dosage and adding more food the corals once again took off.


Please note that you MUST have a sufficient sized skimmer and proper aeration to employ this dosing system. Reefers have crashed their setups by not running a skimmer or having proper flow/aeration.

Here are some things I have observed when dosing MB7/vodka:

PROS
-My skimmer is pulling out more gunk then ever
-My water is even clearer now
-Polyp extension in corals has greatly increased
-Coral growth has exploded. Within two weeks of dosing I have counted 36 new, small coral heads coming out of my large mille.
-The sand bed is whiter.
-Glass and overflow box stay cleaner longer.
-Coraline algae has begun to show up on pumps and over flow.

CONS
-Some corals have lightened up even more.
-Red slime is appearing in spot it hasn't before.
-Bacteria is making my sand bed clumpy, so I have to gravel vac it twice a month.


Is vodka dosing for everyone? No. But for these of you willing to take the time to understand and implement this system it can change the way you go about reef keeping. The system is simple and cost effective, allowing you to achive near ocean like water quality without the use of expensive GFO or refugiums.

If you decide to dose MB7/Vodka here are some helpful tips:


MB7 (Bottle Instructions.)
+
Vodka (or carbon) Dosing - Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com
=========================
Probiotic Reef Keeping.

Time to dose = during lights on seems best. MB7 into the display. Vodka into the sump.

Rules
1) Need a good skimmer

Noticed in Water testing
1) high nitrates = increase vodka as per instructions.
2) no Nitrate/Po4 change in LONG time = try another carbon source like vinegar, sugar, biofuel...
3) low nitrates = maintain till 0 then reduce to maintenance levels of vodka
4) Increase in Alk = stop dosing Cal / alk, test water change h20 for alk level. Decrease with large water changes and/or chemicals if it gets bad. Corals may stop taking Cal/ALK while getting used to Probiotic system & increased light.
4) new tank/build = follow instructions, stay close to the low side of dosing.
5) Phosphate being high = a round of GFO

Noticed in Algae/Bacteria Reaction
1) Bacterial Blooms (slimy white strings) = too much bacteria, decrease vodka dosing.
2) algae on glass after increase of MB7 = reduce MB7 :P
3) brown dusting or brown hair like stuff = decrease MB7 (also check www.rimlessreef.com )
4) cyano = increase MB7 and/or lower/stop vodka dose. After the cyano has gone away restart the vodka from the initial or maintenence dose. If it's really bad consider a "lights out" period. If really really bad consider "Red Slime Remover."
5) peach fuzz = stop or decrease (especially vodka) dosing for a while (about a week or till the fuzz dies off) then start back up with the maintenance dose. OR This may also just go away in time.
6) glass and sand getting dirtier = dose more/feed less

Noticed in Live Stock Reaction
1) Corals losing color = more feeding, possibly Amino Acids, lower photo period an hour for a while.
2) Corals Burnt Tips = check alkalinity..get it to 7-8 dKH by stop dosing alk...maybe stop dosing EVERYTHING if it gets bad.
3) Monti caps bleaching = Cut the vodka dosage in half and stay there until the cap starts to color up and/or lower the lighting photoperiod for a bit or have a light "day off."
4) Everything dies = Blame the wife, kids, or something other than your own possible mistakes )

Other
1) substrate hardening = keep it broken up and siphoned with water changes. Maintain a good high PH of 8.1 - 8.3
 
Last edited:
Go slow, ramp up slowly, be patient. For a long while it may appear that nothing is happening. When you finally reach your correct dose, the results can be quite dramatic -- plumetting NO3 levels in just a week or two. White film on the glass instead of green is a sign it is working. Most certainly make sure your skimmer is working well.
 
Thanks for the info everyone! I still haven't heard what the best would be in my situation though...biopellets, vodka or vinegar. And also how I should dose phosphates since they are reading 0.00.
 
Just try a few things and see what you and your system like. I have used vodka in 2 systems, neither one had cyano or any other negatives associated to the dosing which went pretty high amounts. Others have issues with vodka but not vinegar. Lots of us in the hobby like to talk in terms of absolutes, but really there isn't a way for anyone to know what is the best for your system.
 
I'll try vodka and see how that goes, then possibly vinegar. I'll wait to dose the phosphates. I'll let everyone know how it goes...might be a few months though.
 
Doesn't need to be a few months to get those Nitrates down.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top