Chrysophytes Or Dino?

Aussiemarine · Sep 6, 2020

Hey sorry for the spam.

first off - I’ve ordered a 1600X microscope so hopefully here this week. That will give me a definitive answer but would like to know what everyone’s thoughts are on this one in the meantime?

I have been told by a couple of people this is chrysophytes - I am not fully convinced just wanting another opinion. Anyone got an opinion on what this could be?

I have ordered a 36w UV and Vibrant fot when I get a positive ID, I’ll hook up the UV regardless and I have a fair bit of GHA which I want vibrant to assist with but don’t want it to cause any issues with this algae allowing it to take over.

In the meantime what would everyone suggest I do? Continue manual removal? Bubble scrubber? It’s taking hold of my SPS frags... Been brushing them off daily

It’s also ONLY growing on the parts of rock that aren’t already covered in coralline or the glass/pumps. Not even the sand.

Water tested and phos/nitrates running at 0 (been trying to increase with feeding etc but the GHA is probably consuming this).

PH is 8.3-8.5, DKH is 8.4 Calc 480 Mag 1500. I’m running carbon in a reactor, skimmer, algae turf scrubber and bubble magnus roller filter. Might be running the tank to efficiently for nutrient export?

SOS!

Snoopdog · Sep 6, 2020

I cannot tell from the pictures. Better to get a positive ID when the microscope comes in before you take an actions.

fishface NJ · Sep 6, 2020

If your nitrate and phosphate are 0 then I would start dosing to get them up instead of polluting your water with too much food. Snoopdog is correct that you need to scope it. How long has your tank been setup?

Snoopdog · Sep 6, 2020

fishface NJ said:
If your nitrate and phosphate are 0 then I would start dosing to get them up instead of polluting your water with too much food. Snoopdog is correct that you need to scope it. How long has your tank been setup?

Yeah I guess I should had mentioned that. It would not hurt to make sure phosphates and nitrates are at least at detectable levels, but probably not entirely the issue. I would try not to disturb the sand bed, unless you are specifically trying to save a coral from getting smothered.

Aussiemarine · Sep 6, 2020

fishface NJ said:
If your nitrate and phosphate are 0 then I would start dosing to get them up instead of polluting your water with too much food. Snoopdog is correct that you need to scope it. How long has your tank been setup?

Snoopdog said:
Yeah I guess I should had mentioned that. It would not hurt to make sure phosphates and nitrates are at least at detectable levels, but probably not entirely the issue. I would try not to disturb the sand bed, unless you are specifically trying to save a coral from getting smothered.

Tank has been setup for 4 months but most of the rock came from my old tank as this was an upgrade but the sand and about 1/3 of the rock is new

Aussiemarine · Sep 6, 2020

I checked the tank this morning before lights on and they were all still attached to the pump/glass etc so didn’t dissipate overnight - more likely then to be chrysophytes ??

Aussiemarine · Sep 7, 2020

Looks worse on the back wall this afternoon

Aussiemarine · Sep 8, 2020

for anyone following at home I can confirm there was Dino’s thanks to the filter socks test. Wrapped the tank last night and dosing hydrogen peroxide every 12 hours. Fingers crossed this helps. UV on its way and so is the microscope so will be better to get a positive ID but atleast buying time before it gets worse.

Snoopdog · Sep 8, 2020

Aussiemarine said:
I checked the tank this morning before lights on and they were all still attached to the pump/glass etc so didn’t dissipate overnight - more likely then to be chrysophytes ??

Not necessarily. I noticed they do not all release. A lot of times it take a longer blackout, also make sure you blackout any refugiums and sumps.

Aussiemarine · Sep 8, 2020

Snoopdog said:
Not necessarily. I noticed they do not all release. A lot of times it take a longer blackout, also make sure you blackout any refugiums and sumps.

Thanks - I am going 4 days then going to continue dosing hydrogen peroxide and run lights 4-5 hours per day mainly blues for a week or so. Hopefully the microscope gets here before the weekend and if it pops back up I can make a positive ID.