Cinder block tank stand??

[JDJP]

Going to st up an outdoor 180gallon tank. I want to use cinder blocks for the stand, but im not sure how i can place them under the tank and stll be able to use the corner overflows. Any advice would be great thanks

 

[Mandelstam]

Only way I could see is to plug the corner overflows, drill the back panel in the same area and use that for the return. Then make a central overflow between the middle braces.
That is if you have to use cinder blocks, if you use 2x4s I think you are good as it is.

 

[Kershaw]

If you use cinderbkocks I would highly recommend laying 2x6 across them before putting tank Down.
Maybe have a gape where you could drill through for over flow.

 

[Kershaw]

Sorry it’s uggly just did it on phone real quikc

 

[Mandelstam]

Sorry it’s uggly just did it on phone real quikc

I think it's a real piece of art! [emoji51][emoji23]

 

[JDJP]

Maybe something like this?

 

[JDJP]

How about something like this with a 2x6 frame under the tank, but bring the blocks in towards the middle so the tank hangs over a little on either side?

 

[Reef-junky]

I plan on doing something similar but I was thinking of having all cinder blocks underneath and plywood on top. Would be interested to see what people suggest.

 

[Mandelstam]

How about something like this with a 2x6 frame under the tank, but bring the blocks in towards the middle so the tank hangs over a little on either side?

I would definitely have the cinder blocks support the four corners of the tank and frame. No overhang. And add a plywood sheath between the tank and frame. You don't want an unsupported bottom panel.

Did a quick sketch in sketchup. Outer frame 2x6s, shorter supports 2x4s.

 

[JDJP]

Its not a rimless its got a plastic frame so the bottom glass doesnt touch anyway

 

[JDJP]

I would definitely have the cinder blocks support the four corners of the tank and frame. No overhang. And add a plywood sheath between the tank and frame. You don't want an unsupported bottom panel.

Did a quick sketch in sketchup. Outer frame 2x6s, shorter supports 2x4s.

Without overhang my overflows are blocked, thats the problem.

 

[Mandelstam]

Then I would either drill the back panel or make the stand completely out of wood.

 

[S-t-r-e-t-c-h]

Its not a rimless its got a plastic frame so the bottom glass doesnt touch anyway

Doesn't matter. With a couple thousand pounds of water & rock in the tank, whatever you put under it is going to bow at the overhang and you'll get pressure points. Eventually the tank will fail. Whatever the tank sits on needs to be flat and stay flat...

Agree with @Mandelstam that you should drill the back panel, if you are going with a concrete block stand.

 

[JDJP]

Doesn't matter. With a couple thousand pounds of water & rock in the tank, whatever you put under it is going to bow at the overhang and you'll get pressure points. Eventually the tank will fail. Whatever the tank sits on needs to be flat and stay flat...

Agree with @Mandelstam that you should drill the back panel, if you are going with a concrete block stand.

So im trying to understand this, but with support at the corners of this wood frame there is no support in the middle, whats the difference? Wouldn't the 6" overhang be way stronger than the 4' gap between the cinder blocks?

 

[JDJP]

And when i said it had a plastic frame i was questioning the need for the plywood because the frame is the only thing contacting the wood

 

[Mandelstam]

No overhang is a gut response by me and it's more relevant to when the plywood base is sticking outside the frame along with the tank. You want the tank to have rigid and equal support all along its sides and corners. Supporting the corners also relieves the screws in the frame from any forces. The screws should be there to hold the wood together, not to take up any weight from the tank. But 2x6 is pretty strong so if the tank is supported by a frame like that, with plenty of ss screws, all along the perimeter I'm pretty sure you can move the legs in from the corners some.

I oriented the blocks like I did so the length of the front and back support beam of the frame would be equally long so the tank wouldn't bend unevenly.

Any particular reason you want to use cinder blocks? They take up a lot of real estate under the tank.

 

[JDJP]

Just for the simplicity and low cost. Also think they would hold up better outside.

 

[S-t-r-e-t-c-h]

So im trying to understand this, but with support at the corners of this wood frame there is no support in the middle, whats the difference? Wouldn't the 6" overhang be way stronger than the 4' gap between the cinder blocks?

Sorry, I'm replying during a meeting at work. Probably shouldn't do that...

IMO, the unsupported end is more prone to distorting than a panel supported at each end (assuming you're using 2x6's). With the overhang is you're also making the footprint of the stand smaller than the tank, so it's going to be inherently less stable. The plywood is sort of an insurance step to help the base stay flat. You don't absolutely need it, but it's helpful even with the frame.

Personally, I'd not use a wood stand that didn't support all four corners. Maybe it will be fine, but I wouldn't chance it with a tank that size...

 

[JDJP]

What if i just angled the back blocks 45* so just the back corners extended past the block. That would be better.

 

[Mandelstam]

TBH I would just plug those existing drains and drill new ones on the back...

An option for an outdoor "weight is no issue" kind of stand is to cast a slab out of reinforced concrete to put the tank on instead of the wooden frame. Strong and rigid. Won't rot. Put a couple of plugs in the mold where the plumbing needs to ge through. Depending on if you have any scrap wood to build a mold out of it doesn't have to be expensive either. And could look very nice.

OR cast the entire thing out of concrete...