Circuit Breaker Tripped

  • Thread starter Thread starter Leyth
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Every time I've had a problem with my breaker or GFCI outlet, the heater was the culprit. I would start there.

I suggest getting a plug in power meter. It's a fast and safe way to check how much power each device is using.

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yup that's the same one I use.
 
makes sense, unfortunately it’s my work computer since this in my office so I would need power to it. Fortunately the circuit breaker box is only 10 feet away from the tank so I think it shouldn’t be too hard to run a dedicated circuit for the tank.
If your panel is that close, definitely do a dedicated circuit on a GFCI breaker ( any outlet within 6’ of water needs to be protected).
Every time I've had a problem with my breaker or GFCI outlet, the heater was the culprit. I would start there.

I suggest getting a plug in power meter. It's a fast and safe way to check how much power each device is using.

1617195165317.png
This is a great idea too. I’ve never used one though. Would be nice if it had min/max setting.
 
I had my aquarium put on a dedicated circuit but I still have a cheap Penn PLax battery backup aerator pump with a plug. Its plugged in and automatically turns on in case of loss of power. As an aquarium tech for a lfs I saw too many tank crashes that could have been avoided with such a simple solution.
 
Thanks for all your help guys. Gonna call the electrician shortly and just get a dedicated line put in. I'm so mad at myself for not doing this while planning the house. I set up so many dedicated lines throughout the house for other random stuff like power tools in the garage. I dunno how I overlooked this.
 
Thanks for all your help guys. Gonna call the electrician shortly and just get a dedicated line put in. I'm so mad at myself for not doing this while planning the house. I set up so many dedicated lines throughout the house for other random stuff like power tools in the garage. I dunno how I overlooked this.
I would also put that mp40 on a battery backup if you haven’t already. They are great.

 
I would also put that mp40 on a battery backup if you haven’t already. They are great.


Haha, you read my mind. I have an Icecap battery backup that I think I can use for the gyre or reef octopus stuff. I just posted a thread to see if anyone can confirm I have the right power cord for it before I hook it up.
 
Thanks for all your help guys. Gonna call the electrician shortly and just get a dedicated line put in. I'm so mad at myself for not doing this while planning the house. I set up so many dedicated lines throughout the house for other random stuff like power tools in the garage. I dunno how I overlooked this.

If you are going to have a dedicated circuit put in have them make it a 20 amp circuit. Very little cost difference especially with how short your run will be.
 
So, I got the Kill a watt device and started measuring the amperage usage on everything on this circuit and this is what I've found.

On my desktop computer, I ran a program that pushed my CPU and GPU to 100% usage and I maxed out at 2.5 amps. Keep in mind the computer was off when the circuit breaker tripped.

On my security system computer, I measured a maximum usage of 1.0 amps. This device was on 24/7 but has been since moved to another circuit.

On my fish tank, I turned everything on and made the heater was on and I measured a maximum of 7.5 amps. Keep in mind the T5 and reefbrite units were off when the circuit tripped so that subtracts about 3.6 amps.

To summarize, the maximum amperage I was able to pull out of all these devices was 10amps. However, I estimate when the breaker tripped only 3-5 amps were being used.

So, now I don't see how it could have been an overloading of the circuit. What else can I investigate? I am guessing there is a device that is potentially acting up like a heater or something?
 
Could be things like cheap powerheads too. I bought one for my ato. It didn't trip the gfci every time it went either, once every 20-30 turn ons. Was a pain to locate.
 
So, I got the Kill a watt device and started measuring the amperage usage on everything on this circuit and this is what I've found.

On my desktop computer, I ran a program that pushed my CPU and GPU to 100% usage and I maxed out at 2.5 amps. Keep in mind the computer was off when the circuit breaker tripped.

On my security system computer, I measured a maximum usage of 1.0 amps. This device was on 24/7 but has been since moved to another circuit.

On my fish tank, I turned everything on and made the heater was on and I measured a maximum of 7.5 amps. Keep in mind the T5 and reefbrite units were off when the circuit tripped so that subtracts about 3.6 amps.

To summarize, the maximum amperage I was able to pull out of all these devices was 10amps. However, I estimate when the breaker tripped only 3-5 amps were being used.

So, now I don't see how it could have been an overloading of the circuit. What else can I investigate? I am guessing there is a device that is potentially acting up like a heater or something?
Looks like the breaker in question is an arc fault. Can be moody, but required by code in installations now on certain circuits, at least here in Canada. As mentioned by others could be a pump, or heater causing the trip. And unfortunately could be a long process to find the fault, if its not tripping constantly. You've got the right idea with installation of a dedicated 20 amp GFCI circuit. In this case I recommend the breaker be GFCI rather than the receptacle itself.
Keep the thread updated once you get your new circuit installed. Curious to see if it eliminates the issue.
 
as its name implies, arc fault breakers respond to arcing...as in a small spark between 2 wires...making them much more sensitive than a regular breaker that requires a high amp load or a dead short to trip it....but they can interpret things like brushes in an electric motor starting or the contacts closing on a heater as an arc...normally refrigerators cant be plugged into arc fault circuits and their use is required in bedroom circuits but not in kitchens and areas with appliance use...here you'll get gfi's so you can drop your toaster in the sink....some arc faults are just too sensitive...people on electrical forums are constantly cursing them....they will even trip if a neutral wire touches a bare ground wire which can easily happen in a crowded outlet box...even though those 2 wires essentially attach to the same ground back at the panel...in the long run just get a dedicated 20 amp gfi (or2) for the tank...unless this is doing this on a regular basis dont think you'll be able to isolate which item is tripping it or if the arc fault itself is faulty
 
Arcfault breakers definitely nuisance trip a bunch. They’re required by code is all I’ll say about that. Breakers get weak for no apparent reason sometimes and then start to trip periodically. Same with GFCI plugs. Most times, replacing the breaker for an even swap will fix your headache.
 
This jut happened to me. I have a 12 plug adaptor under a 2 plug wall socket gfi. Randomly popped today but also I felt some burn on a cuticle earlier today to. My pops said it may be ground fault issue. Suggested running things on another outlet. Is there any failsafes or things I should do to alert me or backup the tank in case it happens when I’m out?
 
This jut happened to me. I have a 12 plug adaptor under a 2 plug wall socket gfi. Randomly popped today but also I felt some burn on a cuticle earlier today to. My pops said it may be ground fault issue. Suggested running things on another outlet. Is there any failsafes or things I should do to alert me or backup the tank in case it happens when I’m out?
DO NOT run things on another outlet. You need to stick with your GFCI and unplug components until you find the offending issue. Failsafe would be run two or three separate GFCI outlets, split the load. Example one heater on one GFCI one on another. Electrician here, with 25 years marine/ outdoor installation as his experience. As Vette mentions @Brew12 will also have something to add, looked at his posts and he knows his stuff.
 
DO NOT run things on another outlet. You need to stick with your GFCI and unplug components until you find the offending issue. Failsafe would be run two or three separate GFCI outlets, split the load. Example one heater on one GFCI one on another. Electrician here, with 25 years marine/ outdoor installation as his experience. As Vette mentions @Brew12 will also have something to add, looked at his posts and he knows his stuff.
Thank you for the comment.

And this is spot on... you need to find what is causing the trip because it could be a failed electrical component which can release toxins into your system. I also strongly encourage people to split their loads between multiple GFCI's.
 
Thank you for the comment.

And this is spot on... you need to find what is causing the trip because it could be a failed electrical component which can release toxins into your system. I also strongly encourage people to split their loads between multiple GFCI's.
So just unplug things and stick my finger in the water when plugging them back in?
 
do you have a ground probe in the tank? perhaps adding one will cause the gfi to trip without relying on your finger...
I do not

so ground probe in tank would trip when the offending item leaks?
Easier to figure out
 

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